Those front brakes can be a bugger to bleed! If you minimize your pumping losses, seal the bleeder screw threads and use a clamp for a check valve to get the master empty of air and the fluid flow started, then it goes pretty quickly. I may (or may not) have a couple useful tips for ya... in no particular order, here is how I do it on Motorcycles/ATVs.
First thing I do on all bikes is remove all of the bleeder screws and wrap all of those threads with 5-8 wraps of Teflon tape. Then screw each bleeder back in by hand until they are about 3/4 of the way threaded back into the wheel cylinder (or caliper). Stop there and put a clear vinyl hose on each bleeder and drop the ends into a small can, jar, or bottle container. Route and support your clear vinyl hoses so that each hose has a loop in it, suspended just above its bleeder, where brake fluid can be held (the looped vinyl hose functions as a small reservoir for fluid that will be drawn back into the wheel cylinder) and escaping air will be directed up to the top of that loop away from the bleeder. All of the excess brake fluid drains into its container from the tops of those hose loops. Before beginning the bleeding process, make sure the teflon tape is fully sealing each of the bleeder threads. If not, snug them up 1/2 turn more, each...
When I bled my 350D out I took the small, round rubber check valve out of the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir until I was almost done, then put it back in place before the final bleeding strokes of the lever. This allows the air in the master cylinder bore to escape back into the reservoir at a much faster rate, than if that rubber restriction is left installed while you are bleeding.
To help minimize pumping stroke losses, I tightened all four of the brake shoe adjusters all the way out tight, so none of the bleeding strokes are being wasted on pushing those four wheel cylinder pistons out against the brake shoe return springs. After the system is bled, just back those four adjusters out three clicks where they belong and you'll be all grins over your cleverness.
Use a clamp on the brake hose right near the top of it, real close to the reservoir for a restrictor/check valve until you get all of the air out of the master cylinder bore and are getting full fluid flows coming out of the bleeder screws. Then quit using the clamp on the hose cause it isn't needed or helpful anymore, once a full fluid flow is established at the bleeders. How do you clamp that hose safely...? Wrap a rag around the hose and clamp it with vise grips or a C-clamp adjusted just tightly enough to nearly pinch off the hose completely.... but not quite all the way crushed. Just put the clamp on snuggly and leave it alone until its not needed then take it off. It won't hurt that hose unless its way overdone, so no worries.
Once you are getting full fluid flows out of both of the bleeders (and just before taking the clamp off from the brake hose) grab a screwdriver with a hard plastic handle and use the plastic handle to tap on the steel brake lines every couple inches or so along their lengths, beginning at the wheel cylinders and working your way back toward the proportioning valve mounted on the swingarm. Once you reach that valve tap on it several times while pumping the master cylinder lever a few times to move those tiny dislodged air bubbles toward the bleeder screw hoses where they can escape. After this step you can remove the clamp from the hose.
By this point you will probably be seeing only very, very tiny air bubbles escaping up through the fluid loops in the clear hoses, sorta like carbonation bubbles rising from the sides of the glass of your fav cold adult beverage. If so, put the rubber check valve back in the master cylinder reservoir and give each bleeder screw another 1/4-1/2 turn tighter to make sure their threads are still sealing. Then pump the lever a few more times and then stop... holding it fully depressed (you can wrap the lever with something to hold it depressed or use a big rubber o-ring slipped over the end of the handlebar and lever) while you snug up each bleeder screw.
Almost done now... pull the lever back once and hold it while you loosen and quickly retighten the bleeder on the left side, furthest away from the master. Release the lever. Repeat again until no air escapes. Then repeat these final bleeding steps on the other bleeder on the right side of the bike.
Finally, pull the lever once to make sure its hard, then top off the fluid and put the reservoir lid back on. Back off the brake shoe adjusters 3 clicks (back them off 2 clicks if you have new OEM brake shoes installed) where they belong and ride it.
I forgot to make a mention about leveling the brake master cylinder so that air has an upward path to escape from the master cylinder bore. You can turn the handlebar a bit to help level the master and you may have to loosen the handlebar clamp screws and twist the master a bit to get it just right. Doing this helps speed things along and saves on brake fluid waste. Put the master back where it belongs on the alignment punch mark on the bars when you are done.