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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a nice 350 but the cam chain needed replacing. Considering its age and that I would convert it to run on propane when/if it developed carb/fuel pump issues, I sent the cylinder and head to G&H and got a Wisco 10.25:1 piston. So its all back together and when I'm ready to put the right side cover back on I see that the spring on the reverse lockout is a potential problem. The straight end of the spring is supposed to rest on the side of the case which establishes tension on the lever. I have the factory manual but it is silent on the issue. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but I know Retro and Shadetree will know exactly what to do!
 

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reverse lever spring : install the lever with the long end at about 1 o,clock, the spring should hook under the long end, wraps around to the right, rest up on top of the oil pick up screen case area. be very careful when installing the gasket ( if new ? ), what I do is, I hook the spring under the long end, install the shaft into the hole in the case, all while doing this, most times the long end of the spring is right next to the very bottom of the case, then I take a long screw driver, and pry the end of the spring up, and to the right, to rest it on the top of the case inside, above the oil filter pick up screen area. have I lost ya yet ???..lol.
 

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I do them the same way as shade does. Just make sure that everything else is in place correctly (verify the kickstart shaft didn't pull out and unwind, washer and o-ring in place, clutch release arm in place, etc.) and ready for that cover... because if you slip that cover on, then have to pull it back off for any reason..? The reverse lockout lever will pop back out and cut your new gasket in half!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Shadetree, No I completely follow, that is all I could come up with! Little disappointed in Honda! I deemed that method too much risk on the gasket. But so be it. Another oddity I ran into; the rocker adjustment screw on both the 86'350 & 87' 350 is not 'minus' headed (japanese terminology) but square headed! The manual (Honda) shows a slot screw (or minus). I got it with a small adjustable wrench but I'm guessing there is a tool for it. Thanks for your help
 

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Hey Shadetree, No I completely follow, that is all I could come up with! Little disappointed in Honda! I deemed that method too much risk on the gasket. But so be it. Another oddity I ran into; the rocker adjustment screw on both the 86'350 & 87' 350 is not 'minus' headed (japanese terminology) but square headed! The manual (Honda) shows a slot screw (or minus). I got it with a small adjustable wrench but I'm guessing there is a tool for it. Thanks for your help
yep, they are square on the tappets..lol. not slotted like later years are.
 

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if your smart ( and i'm sure ya are !..lol ) put everything inside the right side FIRST !..then install the gasket :).
 

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I do them the same way as shade does. Just make sure that everything else is in place correctly (verify the kickstart shaft didn't pull out and unwind, washer and o-ring in place, clutch release arm in place, etc.) and ready for that cover... because if you slip that cover on, then have to pull it back off for any reason..? The reverse lockout lever will pop back out and cut your new gasket in half!
been there..done that !..lol. when I pull right side covers off ( these type of models ) I very carefully watch that reverse lever when I install a new gasket. I put everything in first..double check, triple check to make sure everything is in there, adjusted right, set right ?, oil filter screen is back in ? ( been there, done that..lol ), double check, triple check again ?!..then I put the gasket on last. i've torn a few gaskets because of that stupid reverse lever spring !..lol.
 

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See now ya'll have me all confused so you have to post pics.
pics of what ???????. how do you get confused about a old school trx350 right side cover and reverse lever and spring ?. really ???, I can see why you can't put those trx350's you have back together !!..lol. and honestly ?..there is no difference between those old atvs, and the newer front to bac motors in todays atvs. the reverse levers and springs are pretty much the very same thing, cept they sit in the cases different. old school has the long part of the lever facing top right, new atv reverse levers face top left to the shift drums, and you need pic's for this ??..lol.
 

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See now ya'll have me all confused so you have to post pics.
That is a great idea! It is a lot easier to show how to prepare that lever in photos than it is to explain it! Unfortunately, I sold my old 350... and shadetree has a runner, so that leaves it up to either Boppyguy or yourself to take some pics doesn't it..? :)
 

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I like Pics Shade!

I've done 350 Ranchers, 420's, 500's. Haven't done a sideways motor yet nor one with a kickstart. The first one I tried was the 350 Foreman that vomited the transmission when I split the cases.

I'm sure I'll be fine. Just need to dig back into it.
 

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I like Pics Shade!

I've done 350 Ranchers, 420's, 500's. Haven't done a sideways motor yet nor one with a kickstart. The first one I tried was the 350 Foreman that vomited the transmission when I split the cases.

I'm sure I'll be fine. Just need to dig back into it.
[email protected] ^^^^. like i've said in the past, the tranny in sideways motors ( old school ) are no different than these newer models !..they just sit in the cases different is all :).
 

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On the newer ones you can sit the motor down on the flywheel and pull the front of the case off and the transmission doesn't move. Careful set it up, and blast all the crap out of the case and transmission with cans of starter fluid.

When I tried that on the 350 Foreman motor, apparently I got it backwards because when I pulled 1/2 the case off from the top, the transmission came with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay I thought I followed what Shadetree was saying. So I'm putting the cover on, everything installed; kick starter, oil line o-ring, shift lever etc.. but with the reverse lever in the cover trying to push the spring up onto the side of the case next to the screen using a thin screwdriver reaching in the gap of the case and the cover while pushing the cover on. Fight with it for an hour (stubborn! I know) before going to my computer to reread the instructions from Shadetree with Retro's concurrence. I know for a fact those two know those old 350's cold, probably every other Honda atv too but I've spent hours reading posts on the 350s and know they know what they are doing. Even tho Shadetree doesn't use a torque wrench! lol They both are many levels above my skill level and I've been wrenching for 50 yrs. So at this point. I think. I have to remove the reverse lever shaft from the case. But I need better, blow-by-blow instructions. By the way I have a smartphone (and the case off) I'd be happy to post photos if someone could direct me how. By the way I've changed clutches on 300's , Foreman 400 and 450 and I don't remember ever removing the reverse lever shaft. But at my age there is plenty of lost memory! Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Okay I thought I followed what Shadetree was saying. So I'm putting the cover on, everything installed; kick starter, oil line o-ring, shift lever etc.. but with the reverse lever in the cover trying to push the spring up onto the side of the case next to the screen using a thin screwdriver reaching in the gap of the case and the cover while pushing the cover on. Fight with it for an hour (stubborn! I know) before going to my computer to reread the instructions from Shadetree with Retro's concurrence. I know for a fact those two know those old 350's cold, probably every other Honda atv too but I've spent hours reading posts on the 350s and know they know what they are doing. Even tho Shadetree doesn't use a torque wrench! lol They both are many levels above my skill level and I've been wrenching for 50 yrs. So at this point. I think. I have to remove the reverse lever shaft from the case. But I need better, blow-by-blow instructions. By the way I have a smartphone (and the case off) I'd be happy to post photos if someone could direct me how. By the way I've changed clutches on 300's , Foreman 400 and 450 and I don't remember ever removing the reverse lever shaft. But at my age there is plenty of lost memory! Thanks in advance for the help.
newer atvs..the reverse lever won't pull out !. older..like you have ?, yeah..they will pull out of the case..IF YA DON'T REMOVE THE BOLT AND LEVER FIRST HAND ?!..LOL. remove the bolt, remove the lever, punch the shaft inwards into the case cover, NOW YOU CAN INSTALL THE LEVER IN THE LOWER ENGINE, THEN COVER :). for future reference ?, always remove the bolt, lever, then tap the shaft in as your pulling right side cover on those models..same goes for the trx250, trx300, any old school atc's, atvs that have reverse ?, yeah..remove bolt, foot shifting lever if your doing the left side cover, right side, also tap the kick starter shaft back in as your pulling cover..there is a washer in the back of that shaft..if it falls down in the lower engine ?, that will ruin your day !..lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Amen!! Thank-you so much. Will try that tomorrow. That makes a lot more sense. Two other quick questions. Of course I cut the new gasket with the spring but want to just use a little hondabond to patch it. Kosher or stupid? Also if I install a fused with relay fan override switch will that affect the Honda "high engine temp" safety system. Would be interested in the phone support thing. I've always got atv projects going, my next is making 1 good 300 out of 2 damaged.
 

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Amen!! Thank-you so much. Will try that tomorrow. That makes a lot more sense. Two other quick questions. Of course I cut the new gasket with the spring but want to just use a little hondabond to patch it. Kosher or stupid? Also if I install a fused with relay fan override switch will that affect the Honda "high engine temp" safety system. Would be interested in the phone support thing. I've always got atv projects going, my next is making 1 good 300 out of 2 damaged.
if the rip in the gasket is not big ?, yep, yamabond or hondabond will seal it. as for the fused relay ?, not sure ?, why not just fix the problem ?, oil temp sensor is bad ?, or fan control unit is bad ?. fan control unit is discontinued today, its used from ebay or a salvage yard. most times the oil temp sensor goes out, but I have seen the fan control unit give up the ghost too !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank-you. Got the reverse shaft/lever/spring installed in engine. Decided to see if there was an answer to my gasket question, there was! Gasket is just torn so will proceed with Hondabond dab. As to the fan over ride switch, I assume the high oil temp system is working but I don't like it waiting as long as it does to turn on. As a youngster worked for a company that built/modified Corvairs. Like 250hp turbo units and learned that aircooled engines are substantially oil cooled. If you kept the oil temp @180 degrees motors ran better and stayed together. So ever since I've run oil & trans coolers and it has served me well. Plus its only a matter of time before I put this 350 on propane which runs a little hotter than gasoline. I am fine with bypassing the Honda factory system completely but don't want to cause a problem. I recently put a new engine (PSN) in CanAm 850 and installed an oil cooler with the fan over ride switch where the factory circuit turns the fan on @208 degrees and off @203. I think that is smart if you're selling the engine parts. The owner is thrilled with the new system. So I was thinking, probably, you and Retro would know if I can either bypass the factory or over ride it so I can do the "right' way once. Thank-you again for sharing your wisdom.
 

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Thank-you. Got the reverse shaft/lever/spring installed in engine. Decided to see if there was an answer to my gasket question, there was! Gasket is just torn so will proceed with Hondabond dab. As to the fan over ride switch, I assume the high oil temp system is working but I don't like it waiting as long as it does to turn on. As a youngster worked for a company that built/modified Corvairs. Like 250hp turbo units and learned that aircooled engines are substantially oil cooled. If you kept the oil temp @180 degrees motors ran better and stayed together. So ever since I've run oil & trans coolers and it has served me well. Plus its only a matter of time before I put this 350 on propane which runs a little hotter than gasoline. I am fine with bypassing the Honda factory system completely but don't want to cause a problem. I recently put a new engine (PSN) in CanAm 850 and installed an oil cooler with the fan over ride switch where the factory circuit turns the fan on @208 degrees and off @203. I think that is smart if you're selling the engine parts. The owner is thrilled with the new system. So I was thinking, probably, you and Retro would know if I can either bypass the factory or over ride it so I can do the "right' way once. Thank-you again for sharing your wisdom.
yw :). yes you can just bypass the oil temp sensor, and run a inline switch to just turn the fan on when ya want, won't hurt anything. as for the relay to do this ?, noooooooo clue on that part ?..lol. i'm mech, not electrical...lol.
 
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