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If I remember right the cross brace that bolts to the lower part of the frame on each side and serves as a lower-front motor mount bracket has to be left out of there until the header pipe is fitted back in place. There might be more to that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
I wire wheeled the Cobra glass-pac muffler and exhaust header pipe. Mostly surface rust on the muffler and minor pitting on the header. Then wiped it down with paint thinner.
I shook up the Total Solutions—poured the milky stuff into a paint pan. Used a wide chip brush to apply it to the pieces. As it began to react with the surface it began to turn purple.
I see why @GirlsRideToo you use a smaller brush; i was a little sloppy.
Wished i had some “before” pics

So maybe I will try to smooth the finish on the header tomorrow
Takes 48 hours to cure
 

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The rust conversion to iron tannate should be stable and permanent, so it should withstand the high exhaust temp without issue, right? But I wonder about the water-based paintable coating... will that survive on a red hot header? Are you intending to remove the coating after the conversion completes?
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Hmm good question
I will hit it with a stripper heat gun tomorrow; will probably be easier than sanding it off lol
 

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Wow , that exhaust looks good ! ------- I have tried painting the exhaust with all kinds of heat paint , nothing seems to last too long
 

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Discussion Starter #127
The stripper gun melted that conversion coating but it’s VERY hard to get off now. LOLs

Oh well i needed to convert the rust and now i know more about how to use it and the limitations for high heat use.

I’ll hit it with the wire wheels again and then use a 200F primer
 

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Do you guys have "hammerite, cure-rust" available to you? It's a rust convertor that I've used many times with awesome results. Last time I used it in a high temp application was on a dirt bike exhaust, it worked well and lasted. On the label it's claimed to be a primer so suitable to paint over, worked well for me.

Haven't read the thread properly as I'm scanning through in a hurry so I may be missing an important factor here, just thought I'd chime in quickly anyway!!
 

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We don't have Hammerite Kurust over here that I know of...? Its made in the UK with the active ingredient being 1-methoxy-2-propanol (PGME) according to the datasheet. Goober and I are trying out Total Solutions rust converter (active ingredients = Tannic acid, 2-Butoxyethanol) which was recommended by @GirlsRideToo. It worked great on her Recon frame. High-temp exhausts were a question though, until now. :)
 

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We don't have Hammerite Kurust over here that I know of...? Its made in the UK with the active ingredient being 1-methoxy-2-propanol (PGME) according to the datasheet. Goober and I are trying out Total Solutions rust converter (active ingredients = Tannic acid, 2-Butoxyethanol) which was recommended by @GirlsRideToo. It worked great on her Recon frame. High-temp exhausts were a question though, until now. :)
You did your research well, kurust is the correct name, you out smarted me on that one haha!!

But listen, if your testing products out I'll gladly ship you a bottle, it's cheap and lasts a LONG time with no shelf life. PM me :)

Just an after thought.. Doesn't Tanic acid attack metals if it's not washed/cleaned off after first application? I could be wrong here, what I've said is what I've always been led to believe.
 

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Yeah, I imagine Tannic acid could eat away on clean steel over time if that was the only active ingredient in the bottle...? It reacts with Iron oxide (rust) to chemically convert those oxides and acid to Iron Tannate, which is a stable metal. That chemical reaction begins immediately and completes in just a few minutes where there is rust present on steel.

But what if there are no Iron oxides present on the steel being treated? Thats why there is a small amount of butoxyethanol in the bottle... that solvent slowly reacts with any unreacted Tannic acid remaining on the steel after several hours of exposure with air, stabilizing it, and dries to a hard, paintable coating. :)

Thanks for offering a bottle of Hammerite! I'll have to pass on your offer though... I'd need to find another project bike (and time for another project) to use it. Maybe next year!
 

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Yeah, I imagine Tannic acid could eat away on clean steel over time if that was the only active ingredient in the bottle...? It reacts with Iron oxide (rust) to chemically convert those oxides and acid to Iron Tannate, which is a stable metal. That chemical reaction begins immediately and completes in just a few minutes where there is rust present on steel.

But what if there are no Iron oxides present on the steel being treated? Thats why there is a small amount of butoxyethanol in the bottle... that solvent slowly reacts with any unreacted Tannic acid remaining on the steel after several hours of exposure with air, stabilizing it, and dries to a hard, paintable coating. :)

Thanks for offering a bottle of Hammerite! I'll have to pass on your offer though... I'd need to find another project bike (and time for another project) to use it. Maybe next year!
Very good theory, I can't really reply without doing some research, your years of experience have stopped me in my tracks! Haha :)

PM your postal address again, I'll ship you a bottle anyway, free of charge. I'm sure curiosity will have you testing it out on random pieces of metal, bolts, brackets etc :)
 

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Discussion Starter #134
stripped the total solutions coating off the exhaust system parts because I didn’t think it would take the heat.

used 2000F primer and paint—drying and curing while i spend the winter cleaning oil leaks and rust spots on this quad. valve covers need gaskets and maybe a helicoil or two.

new seal for the starter gears

need to rebuild the starter and grease the chassis bits.
149241
149242
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Thanks!
Hey I rebuilt the starter and now i think it turns backward
Can this happen?
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Ok I rebuilt the starter three times last night using an OEM brush holder and brush kit.
it still turns backward
I can’t think of any way to reverse the polarity. The brush holder and brush set only goes in one way sofar as i can tell
heres a couple pix if anyone has suggestions

149428
149429
 

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my money says your cables from battery and ground is hooked up backwards just like I said a few pages back..lol. start at your battery, from there, go to starter solenoid, then to starter, all of these should be pos from battery. then neg cable goes to engine ground, normally a bolt at back of starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
my money says your cables from battery and ground is hooked up backwards just like I said a few pages back..lol. start at your battery, from there, go to starter solenoid, then to starter, all of these should be pos from battery. then neg cable goes to engine ground, normally a bolt at back of starter.
Thanks Shadetree oh I forgot to say I swapped my starter out from my running 86 and it worked. Turned clockwise and started the engine just fine.
I’m Stumped for sure
 

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Thanks Shadetree oh I forgot to say I swapped my starter out from my running 86 and it worked. Turned clockwise and started the engine just fine.
I’m Stumped for sure
I bet if ya trace all your cables starting from battery to starter, battery to ground, yu'll discover the cables got crossed !..lol.
 
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