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Sounds good! The OEM choke cable length on my old 350 didn't fit/work right either. I took up free space by removing the cable where it connects into the handlebar lever and stuffed an old E clip and a split rubber o-ring into that cable sheath socket. The choke lever felt better and worked great after that poorboy cable adjustment. I remember it did not require much choke on cold startups either. Maybe 1/4 to half choke max. I think the final pilot screw setting was 1 5/8 turns out on that motor. Elevation is 770 feet above sea level here.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Because you and i do such a righteous job cleaning the enrichment circuit!
it ran well with my other carb–so there’s a data point–fix that cable and roll back half a quarter turn. Brilliant!

front end. pulled the hubs and found a leaking brake shoe adjuster.

Broke loose all the exhaust system bolts; got some 2000 degree primer and paint.

You can see I got a pair of headlight mount bolts; used the rough looking headlight bucket that came off my other quad.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Have been crazy busy with work, family visits and a home remodel job.

Found the handlebar end of the choke cable was missing the rubber boot–the cable was all sloppy in the lever.

Got a new choke cable and it runs good enough now to move on the something else!
Found the right front forward brake cylinder is leaking, so i will need to rebuild that one.

After I finish drywalling a spare bedroom into a sewing room 🙄
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Ok i found the front right brake wheel cylinder leaking.
I replaced all three seals in the cylinder,
bled the brakes, and as i was finishing

Lost pressure because fluid blew past the piston cup and boot seal.

Ok looks like i will need a new wheel cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Thats quite a big blow out! Those wheel cyls are NLA. Got JB-weld?
LoL what a mess—got brake fluid all over my cleaned brake parts.

I have a spare NOS left front cylinder i will try to use the piston out of it.

I see rebuild kits with pistons is that common?
 

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Thats quite a big blow out! Those wheel cyls are NLA. Got JB-weld?
LoL what a mess–got brake fluid all over my cleaned brake parts.

I have a spare NOS left front cylinder i will try to use the piston out of it.

I see rebuild kits with pistons is that common?
more than likely, those are made in CHINA !!.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
@mattholmes134 let’s summarize my wire harness work. Take off the right side inner fender.

The PO replaced the ignition switch with a 4-wire aftermarket harness–you have the 6-wire OEM harness?

My main harness had two mouse-chewed bare wires–near the battery box end–the Y/R and the Gr/R going to the solenoid. But it worked

My fuse harness in the battery box had all the wires mouse-chewed but it worked too. Mice love that battery box

My starter switch harness run-off selector was bad–stuck in RUN position—I rebuilt the micro switch. Continuity check it as per the manual–you should have no continuity in the run position. You will have to remove the right inner fender to access the plug. My Black/W wire was cut but starter worked–i think this is where you should look to fix the starter power.

In that same area you will the dash harness—see how these wire bundles are all exposed? If the front fender is loose it will rub thru all those wires.

Last two pics are for the change switch harness. If you’re not getting oil or neutral light, check this area first. There ought to be a cover under the right side case–if not this leaves your wires vulnerable. My bet is your dash bulbs are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Again for @mattholmes134
Fuel pump may be bad–very common with quad that set for a long time–water rusts it.

Anyway the 2 wires plug into the main harness just above. Check they are installed correctly and perform the jumper wire test by accessing the pump relay in the box under the right rear fender.

Your pump should buzz not chatter. If it leaks stop immediately. Only buy the OEM pump; yes it’s ~$150.
 

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Discussion Starter #110 (Edited)
Main harness layout–as you can see @mattholmes134 there’s not a lot to the main harness on the 86-87 Fourtrax.

Starting at the back end you’ll see the 2 tail-light connectors and another connector wrapped in blue tape–controlled by the light switch.

Next you’ll see the 2 starter solenoid wires and the fuse panel connector

Then the fuel relay and voltage reg/reg connectors

Next is the main ground, change switch subharness and stator connectors.

Lastly midway on the harness are the two fuel pump connectors
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
Front end of harness starting on right inner fender are connectors for the 6-wire ignition switch subharness, the 2 pink and green accessory subharness, the white plug with black/white stripe wire hooks to the starter switch harness, the red plug hooks to the dash display subharness, there’s the RF sublight wires and finally the two CDI connectors (2p and 4p).

On the left side you’ll see the two coil wires and 2 fan wires, the 6 Fan Control Unit wires and lastly the 2 LF sublight wires
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Bummer my new piston didn’t hold either, so it must be the new piston cup or the cylinder housing. Dang everything looks clean except the old piston

I’m going to try a new piston cup, just in case the seal on the new piston has been compressed too long.
 

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Bummer my new piston didn’t hold either, so it must be the new piston cup or the cylinder housing. Dang everything looks clean except the old piston

I’m going to try a new piston cup, just in case the seal on the new piston has been compressed too long.
I have noooooooo idea what your calling piston cup ??, or seal ?. did you mic the cylinder ?, was the cylinder bored over ?, or did you just try a hone with a new piston installed in the jug ?. you can't do this !. any time you install a new piston ?, its always best to bore the cylinder so its straight and true, and then install a new piston kit. did you check the connecting rod for any play ?, wrist pin play ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Oh the right front forward brake wheel cylinder keeps blowing fluid past the seal.

I have a left front wheel cylinder so I borrowed the piston out of it
 

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Oh the right front forward brake wheel cylinder keeps blowing fluid past the seal.

I have a left front wheel cylinder so I borrowed the piston out of it
ah..brain fart..I thought you was talking piston for jug ?, sorry..been working lots of hours on my cabin, one sec you was talking about a piston, then next brakes, anyway..chances are..the bore in the wheel cylinder is bad, have a look inside the bore, see if its pitted ?, the seal can be bad as well ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #116 (Edited)
Got my bottle of Total Solutions and ready to try it maybe tomorrow. $35 delivered by Amazon.

Thanks to @GirlsRideToo now did you put a little paint in a dish and brush it over the treated spot or just mask/spray the spots?
 

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Got my bottle of Total Solutions and ready to try it maybe tomorrow. $35 delivered by Amazon.

Thanks to @GirlsRideToo now did you put a little paint in a dish and brush it over the treated spot or just mask/spray the spots?

I use a brush. I know you can spray it on, I've just never done it.
I use artist brushes from Hobby Lobby. They are not the cheapo hobby brushes, but not that expensive. There are about 20 in a box, in 3 sizes. Yes, it's more time consuming but it lets you reach into tight areas and the solution does not run all over the place. I wait about 5 minutes after I brush a spot then go back over it to "smooth it out" and get rid of any drips. Then, you can sit back and watch the magic happen. Oh, I've also used those sponge brushes for larger areas. Just keep in mind that it takes only a small amount. I work with 1/4 cup at a time. The sponge brush can get too saturated and drip all over the place if you're not careful.
Try not to get it on your hands because it won't wash off easily and takes days to wear off. LOL
Keep me posted on your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #118 (Edited)
My brake master cylinder works but the site glass was really powdery and cracked. I found a NOS m/c several years ago for $60 thot I would use it.

Looking better every day
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Turns out the brake wheel cylinder had some really hard baked-on stuff in the bore. That was a real chore. I cleaned it like I would drink whiskey out of it.
Pitting on the piston so I swapped it with a new one; reassembled. Got the new master cylinder bled and everything–brakes work great now.
Now here’s an oddity I discovered while removing the exhaust system for paint–manual says “remove exhaust pipe.”
I can’t tell how i got it removed but gonna be fun putting it back on!!!
 

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That is great news about your front brakes, I'm sure those cylinders are polished to a glassy finish too! Do ya think they each might hold a shot... or a bit less? :)

That pipe brings back a memory. Yours looks to be in good condition too. I remember having to slide those flanges forward while repainting the header pipes near the ends, then after the paint flashed off sliding them back carefully against the raised tubing stops and securing those flanges with wire stuffed into the end of the headers to keep them from moving around and gouging the new paint. Had'ta repeat that process during the clear-coating steps too. I cussed at myself quite a few times during that job... they are very difficult to refinish.
 
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