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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
How’s come the service manual doesn’t tell you to drain the oil before you remove the drive shaft coupler!!!

Lol good thing it was old oil yeesh.

Rebuilding the electric starter it was squealing now i know why—no brushes! I had a rebuild kit for an 87 starter that was toasted; a few parts including the front cover are interchangeable but not the center or rear covers. I don’t really want to change the bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I want to thank the @Duck0fDeath for gifting me an OEM stator for this project. The connectors were in poor shape but everything Ohms out good even the exciter coil circuit. I soaked it in clean engine oil and lightly brushed all the particles off of it, then mounted it on the case.

I replaced the connectors using bits from an old ignition harness. created a red and black striped wire by using a sharpie to color the white stripe. Had to buy some yellow wire and use a paint pen to create a blue/yellow pulse coil wire. I soldered the new wires onto the old using clear heat shrink to completely cover the new strand (the paint pen blue is not oil resistant🙄). Then black heat shrink and zip ties to protect them all

Got a fresh case gasket and ready to install.

Thanks very much Duck this is terrific—I’ll install in the next week and see if i can get this old thing fired!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Hey @retro @Duck0fDeath and other members; I remember you all mentioning how to test output of the stator with the max feature of my Fluke meter. But I can’t find where this was discussed. Want to know this before i do the install because i also installed a used OEM reg/rec.
How can you test stator output? Can’t find it in the manual. I’ll look some more.
Do you have to disco the stator output connector or test at the regulator? How do you do that if the quad is running (yikes)?
 

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To check the gross AC output voltages of each alternator winding unplug the regulator/rectifier and measure AC voltage output between each pair of the three yellow wires while the motor is running. You can also run this test at the round stator connector. If I remember right both of those connectors on the TRX350 require small spade test terminals. You might have to make a pair of those so you can run those tests hands free.

Its a 3 phase alternator so you are simply verifying that there is similar AC voltage outputs produced by each of the three alternator windings, while measuring each winding at similar RPMs. The higher you rev the motor, the higher the AC voltage output should be. Each of the yellow wire test pairs should measure close to the same voltages, but I have no idea what the maximum AC voltage might be. I hope I explained that right...

Then plug the regulator/rectifier (or 3P stator connector if you chose to test AC windings there) back in and test the regulated DC voltage output by measuring DC volts across the battery with the motor running. With a fully charged battery in good condition installed the regulated DC output should measure between 13.5 & 15.5 according to specs. But you know all that stuff... :)

You can use the MAX feature on your multimeter to capture peak voltages during any of those tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Perfect thanks. I was thinking about how to check voltage without shocking myself or burning something down
 

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I've tested the stator on my old outboard before. It required a direct voltage adapter (DVA) that works with any multimeter to read peak voltages. With ATV's and side by sides I've learned that the fastest/easiest way to test a stator is to check the AC leads for a short to ground. Nearly every one I've seen fail will have a short on one or more of those leads.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
Okay it took 15 minutes to get the cover off and im cleaning the mating surfaces and inspecting stuff.

I see the end of this shaft from the inside of the case. It looks like it could be seated in that hole but maybe not. Doesn’t look right so I’m getting into the book before i go farther.

What do you all think?

From manual looks ok
 

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That is the end of the balance shaft. That shaft is geared to the crank and is supported on ball bearings at each end. The left side case looks weird on all of them... the case is made with a hole offset from the bearing and balance shaft, so what looks particularly odd there is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Cool Retro thanks. I looked at the case pics and saw what you mentioned.

I cleaned up the front prop shaft and put new grease on it; including the u-joint which I couldn’t figure out how to grease. I installed an older newly rebuilt carburetor and the fuel tank—because I couldn’t get the fuel pump to draw from the fuel can. And I swapped out the nasty breather hose, box and odds/ends with some goodies i got in a box years ago from @dr. feelgood!

Here she is ready to fire. Everything went together real well—but I’m short two quarts oil and it’s lunchtime!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
It’s alive!! Runs good. Five kicks. Doesn’t like the choke for some reason

The fuel pump i had in it was chattering the whole time; then the quad randomly quit.

Replaced the fuel pump with a new one I bought for this purpose. Still randomly quit. Replaced the carburetor with my best rebuilt carb (138.5 main jet) and now it’s purring pretty good.

When i snap the throttle it wants to bog so i think it needs more carb tuning–i have the pilot jet at 2.0. I think the choke thing is a clue
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I celebrated with Longanisa and eggs for lunch and pizzaranch stampede and beer for din. Lol i had a Korean friend they don’t have ‘z’ in their alphabet so occasionally he mispronounced it as ‘x,’ so he would say “are you on for some picksa?”

Ok this quad is running good until the plug gets fouled and does not like using the choke (138.5 main jet and I’m at 3200 ASL). Using the first carb it did the same thing although it seemed to like the first carb with the normal jet (142).

I rebuilt the first carb and found tiny bits in it like the chattering fuel pump had some trash in it.

I need to recheck the valves

Anything else i can do?
 

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You may need to drop the pilot jet down a jet sicks... err, jet size too. You might find confirmation that its too rich at idle speed if adjusting the pilot screw doesn't lean it out enough to make it sputter and die.

Knowing you and your fine carb works I'm sure the SE valve is the correct one, adjusted right and sealing... and the air filter is probably new and lightly oiled... so its gotta be altitude jetting me thinks. :)
 

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The throttle valve was synchronized while the idle speed screw was backed all of the way out, right? Jet needle clip on the 3rd groove from the top? Your altitude might allow that clip to be moved up to the 2nd groove. Dunno... But the tune on this motor should be no different than the tune you have on chilipepper. I doubt if the Cobra muffler has anything to do with it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
The throttle valve was synchronized while the idle speed screw was backed all of the way out, right? Jet needle clip on the 3rd groove from the top? Your altitude might allow that clip to be moved up to the 2nd groove. Dunno... But the tune on this motor should be no different than the tune you have on chilipepper. I doubt if the Cobra muffler has anything to do with it either.
Thanks Retro. Yeah good one i can check the pilot setting on the other quad–I’m running the 138.5 jet in the Chili Pepper too and it’s great. Yup starter valve new; cable seems long–it quits on any choke setting and will not start choked. Synchronization looks set well. No filter just the screen.

Oh yeah the coil wire was corroded at the end—I snipped off a half inch dressed it with dielectric grease and cleaned off the mating prong. Also tried a backup coil.

Think I’ll check the cam chain tension–seems a bit noisy. I pull the tensioner and measure slack with a screwdriver and ruler?
 

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Ya, roll the motor over up to TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed) to insure that a cam lobe ramp is not beginning to open a valve, which might cause the cam to backup taking slack out of the chain. Then pull the tensioner out of the cylinder enough that it fully extends. Hold the extended tensioner against the chain guide squarely and note the gap distance between the tensioner and cylinder. Gaps of 3/16" or less are very high risk for timing jump. While gaps of 1/2" or more are still good chains. A narrow flat blade screwdriver retracts the tensioner. You can jam a piece of wire in there to hold it fully retracted while you bolt it back in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Thanks I’ll do that when it’s nice out.

Ok update tonight running much better!!! Oh yeah reg/rec seems to be working right.

I swapped coils because the original coil had severe corrosion on the cap prongs but still ohms checked good. Plug looked great. set the pilot screw to 1.5 turns out.

started Up on the fourth kick and choke off. It actually ran rough like it wanted to be on mid setting. After a couple minutes it started chugging so i gave the pilot another 1/4 out.

Smoothed right out and ran it for several more minutes no problem. No motor noise (lol I found where i had loosened the manifold bolts too much) and cam chain sounds good.

There’s too much slop in the choke cable...that’s something i need to fix and might be related to the choke hating.
 
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