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I picked that blue bike up on Saturday. Dude swapped wheels and tires around before I showed up. It's got four front wheels. I can't even get a wrench on the shock bolts with the wheels on in back :) Thing was armored out with steel mesh lined racks and rear fender guards that ran down to the floorboards and welded up. I spent two nights cutting them off the stock racks.
That rear rack configuration is something else!!
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Replaced the ignition, dash display sub harnesses, headlight bracket, handlebar and peeled back the master switch harness. Had to drill out and tap the left brake perch.

The neutral light used to be on constantly, but now it’s off and I think there’s a problem with the used display harness—the light was broken but still doesn’t work.

The main harness is mouse chewed in several places so i slaved in a used main harness that i rewrapped. No change.

PROBLEM the quad thinks it’s in neutral; i think it’s a bad master switch. It’s got a knockoff CDI too but I replaced it with an OEM CDI no change.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Fixed it!

@retro checked harness diode and it was there; Neutral socket very corroded so cleaned and got steady N light.

Ok then swapped N and R leads and R light operated as the N circuit should but then had a steady R light. So i knew N circuit switch was good.

Remembering it had a knockoff CDI, I installed my reserve OEM CDI and now ignition circuit is all good. Must be a CDI designed for a Foreman

Time to get that rust reformer solution @GirlsRideToo recommended.
 

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like I said, and always say, the 1986 trx350 fourtrax is a breed of its own !!. you can't use many parts from any other old school trx350 on them, they just want 1986 parts...lol. anywayyyyyy..looking great goober !!.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Thanks Shadetree i picked up those little hacks from discussions here.

My starter switch wouldn’t switch from run to off so i took it apart. Besides a bunch of web worm carcasses in the switch housing, the kill switch musta been damaged during the PO’s rollover.

It is a little plastic box with a protective cover. Inside is the switch mechanism–it has a spring and a metal ball that contacts a detent. Very similar to the safety switch on a Mossberg 500 shotgun. I cleaned and lubed the switch and in process broke the wires.

Here’s a pic of me resoldering the contacts and rewrapping the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Ok thanks I’ll do that @retro,

I have the 500 degree–they make 2000 degree paint?

Need to do the pipes and muffler—slready broke the pipe nuts loose
 

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Yep, they make black, red, silver, maybe other colors too, in 2000 degree. They make a clear coat 2000 degree too, I got my cans from walmart. I used the black n' clear coat on my Rancher header pipe and header heat shield. And silver 'n clear on my muffler and its heat shield. Directions are on the cans... ya gotta let 'em cure overnight after all the coats are on 'em, then heat the parts in an oven to 250 degrees for 30 minutes and allow them to cool for 30 minutes. Repeat that at 400 degrees. Finally repeat that heating/cooling cycle at 600 degrees. I was able to hang my parts from an oven rack placed at the top of the oven using wire through the bolt holes to keep parts from touching the oven interior. If ya don't hang 'em the finish will stick to the oven cause it melts (and self-levels a bit) when it gets hot. I put them on the bike today, but I haven't started the motor yet to see if they are gonna hold up to that intense header pipe heat. Last year I used 1200 degree paint with 2000 degree clear on them and the 1200 degree stuff boiled & bubbled right back off! LOL

I'll let ya know how it goes after I get enough pieces back on the bike to run it for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Sounds good I’ll try it.

BTW I didn’t fix the switch. I had it working when i put it together. The ball or mechanism in the housing must be loose because while it’s better than it was it won’t move completely to off position. Well I learned something and the quad should run.

I’ll look for a cut up switch—i can use the kill module out if it
 

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Sounds good I’ll try it.

BTW I didn’t fix the switch. I had it working when i put it together. The ball or mechanism in the housing must be loose because while it’s better than it was it won’t move completely to off position. Well I learned something and the quad should run.

I’ll look for a cut up switch–i can use the kill module out if it
How does the switch come apart? I took mine off a few weeks ago and took everything apart except the off-run-off switch. I couldn't figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Ended up just spraying it good and it's been work fine so far.
 

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The red button releases from the switch by using a tiny screwdriver. On the underside of the button is a slot... gotta be careful and patient getting it to release. Once the button is out of your way the switch comes apart easily. Watch for that tiny ball bearing to come springing out though.
 

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The red button releases from the switch by using a tiny screwdriver. On the underside of the button is a slot... gotta be careful and patient getting it to release. Once the button is out of your way the switch comes apart easily. Watch for that tiny ball bearing to come springing out though.
Awesome! Had considered by passing it next time it acted up but will take it apart and try to clean it instead.
 

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wait until ya have to take the start button apart !..lol.
 

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wait until ya have to take the start button apart !..lol.
Haha! The part of the button that protrudes out the front broke off years ago. You can still press the switch though. I thought about replacing it (or the entire assembly) but just one of those things I haven't done yet.
 

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wait until ya have to take the start button apart !..lol.
Haha! The part of the button that protrudes out the front broke off years ago. You can still press the switch though. I thought about replacing it (or the entire assembly) but just one of those things I haven't done yet.
i'll save ya the headache...replace the whole assembly !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Ok there are three pieces to this switch

The cover protects the two inner halves of the switch–it slips right off

The inner half has two contacts and a slot for the detent ball. The outer half has the spring, detent ball and a rolling block with two contacts. Separate the two using a thin flat screwdriver and unlock the two clips on the top and bottom of the inner halves.

found that I installed the slot half of the switch assembly upside down. Flipped it right and clicked it together. Checks good–continuity on B/W and G in both off positions
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I installed a rebuilt OEM carb, the repaired starter switch, and a new foot brake. The old foot brake was super rusty.

I don’t have the fuel tank ready for install so I poured some fuel into the carb bowl and sprayed starter fluid into the throat. Hard neutral light–Kicked it several times but no fire. I didn’t hear the fuel pump running so i need to check out the fuel pump and relay circuit
 

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I installed a rebuilt OEM carb, the repaired starter switch, and a new foot brake. The old foot brake was super rusty.

I don’t have the fuel tank ready for install so I poured some fuel into the carb bowl and sprayed starter fluid into the throat. Hard neutral light–Kicked it several times but no fire. I didn’t hear the fuel pump running so i need to check out the fuel pump and relay circuit
fuel pump does not have to run in order to fire the engine over, spec with starting fluid. the engine should have '' fired over '' with what little you did. if the fuel pump is not working ?, it will just shut down once its running.
 
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SamUK
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