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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a way to adjust the choke on this machine? Mine isn't functioning properly and I figured while I'm down to the gapping valves (.003") I might as well see if anyone knows how I can adjust the choke. Thanks!

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I think you can take the slack out of the cable at the handlebar end, other than that there's no adjust. Could be a dodgy seal on the choke valve itself.
 
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samuk ^^ is correct, the choke valve can be only adjusted at the left handle bars. there should be a metal clip that clips onto the end of the cable where it fits into the choke slot, about 3 or 4 grooves, clip goes around the cable in the grooves, holds the cable out away from the plastic lever.
 

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Where do you buy this clip? When I bought my trx250 it was missing and our parts. Ike does not have one on it.
 

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Nice. Thank you. Now I need to find more to order to justify paying 3 times as much as the part cost to have it shipped to me.
 

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Nice. Thank you. Now I need to find more to order to justify paying 3 times as much as the part cost to have it shipped to me.


Yeah, that's the bad thing about needing a small part or two..


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Discussion Starter #8
@SamUK and @shadetree now I know how to adjust when the choke is off the choke valve should be all the way down in the cylinder it fits in correct? Is there anyway to check and ensure it's in the correct position and not slightly raised?

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I'm sure the clip is the same as on a trx300, @shadtree will know where to get one from, possibly partzilla. The choke valve has a spring between the cable outer and the plunger sonit should return all the way. As long as you always have a small amount of free play in the outer cable adjustment it will be fine.
Take into consideration.. These choke valves do stick, it's common. I've just had to do mine! Now may be the perfect time to remove, inspect and pay a little attention to.
 
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@SamUK and @shadetree now I know how to adjust when the choke is off the choke valve should be all the way down in the cylinder it fits in correct? Is there anyway to check and ensure it's in the correct position and not slightly raised?

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yes, when choke is off, the valve is spring loaded to stay down in the bore.
 

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Nice. Thank you. Now I need to find more to order to justify paying 3 times as much as the part cost to have it shipped to me.
I've got a clip, pm your address, and i'll mail it to ya :). unless you just want a new one ?.
 
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I'm sure the clip is the same as on a trx300, @shadtree will know where to get one from, possibly partzilla. The choke valve has a spring between the cable outer and the plunger sonit should return all the way. As long as you always have a small amount of free play in the outer cable adjustment it will be fine.
Take into consideration.. These choke valves do stick, it's common. I've just had to do mine! Now may be the perfect time to remove, inspect and pay a little attention to.
Last weekend I tore my cab apart and cleaned it. It was running alright, but after a hard ride, chasing the cows, it would not idle down. It is still doing the same, but not near as bad. One of the things I noticed was that the choke cable slopping around. I am hoping that is the remaining issue. I also bought a rebuild kit as my bottom gasket is leaking now. I don't think the choke is sticking in the carb, but I plan to replace everything with what comes in the kit.
 

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I'm sure the clip is the same as on a trx300, @shadtree will know where to get one from, possibly partzilla. The choke valve has a spring between the cable outer and the plunger sonit should return all the way. As long as you always have a small amount of free play in the outer cable adjustment it will be fine.
Take into consideration.. These choke valves do stick, it's common. I've just had to do mine! Now may be the perfect time to remove, inspect and pay a little attention to.
Last weekend I tore my cab apart and cleaned it. It was running alright, but after a hard ride, chasing the cows, it would not idle down. It is still doing the same, but not near as bad. One of the things I noticed was that the choke cable slopping around. I am hoping that is the remaining issue. I also bought a rebuild kit as my bottom gasket is leaking now. I don't think the choke is sticking in the carb, but I plan to replace everything with what comes in the kit.
Not sure how kits come in the USA but choke valves come as a separate kit here in the UK.
If it is sticking you may be able to resurrect it by using fine wet & dry (Emory paper) and oil to take off any corsoion. Do the valve and its seat.
 

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I'm sure the clip is the same as on a trx300, @shadtree will know where to get one from, possibly partzilla. The choke valve has a spring between the cable outer and the plunger sonit should return all the way. As long as you always have a small amount of free play in the outer cable adjustment it will be fine.
Take into consideration.. These choke valves do stick, it's common. I've just had to do mine! Now may be the perfect time to remove, inspect and pay a little attention to.
Last weekend I tore my cab apart and cleaned it. It was running alright, but after a hard ride, chasing the cows, it would not idle down. It is still doing the same, but not near as bad. One of the things I noticed was that the choke cable slopping around. I am hoping that is the remaining issue. I also bought a rebuild kit as my bottom gasket is leaking now. I don't think the choke is sticking in the carb, but I plan to replace everything with what comes in the kit.
Not sure how kits come in the USA but choke valves come as a separate kit here in the UK.
If it is sticking you may be able to resurrect it by using fine wet & dry (Emory paper) and oil to take off any corsoion. Do the valve and its seat.
Tell you the truth, I don't remember if the whole valve was included or not. Guess I will find out when it arrives tomorrow. If it is not part of it I will take your advise. I was not even going to buy the kit as it seems to run decent, but I need the new gaskets.
 

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clip will be in the mail tomorrow.
 

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Last weekend I tore my cab apart and cleaned it. It was running alright, but after a hard ride, chasing the cows, it would not idle down. It is still doing the same, but not near as bad. One of the things I noticed was that the choke cable slopping around. I am hoping that is the remaining issue. I also bought a rebuild kit as my bottom gasket is leaking now. I don't think the choke is sticking in the carb, but I plan to replace everything with what comes in the kit.
Not sure how kits come in the USA but choke valves come as a separate kit here in the UK.
If it is sticking you may be able to resurrect it by using fine wet & dry (Emory paper) and oil to take off any corsoion. Do the valve and its seat.
Tell you the truth, I don't remember if the whole valve was included or not. Guess I will find out when it arrives tomorrow. If it is not part of it I will take your advise. I was not even going to buy the kit as it seems to run decent, but I need the new gaskets.
It turned out there was no choke valve in this kit as suggested there would be. I will do as Sam suggested when I tear it down and take some fine Emory cloth to it. I hope to get to it today. Got a bunch of fence to work in prior to bringing the cows home.
 

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If you have one, you can also use a brass or plastic(nylon) wire wheel, the type that fits a drill or dremel. As long as whatever you use doesn't score the aluminium your good :)
 

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Big cotton swabs help wipe the bore
Starter valve kits are worth getting as the valve oring is a peculiar item and will get brittle. Common cause of choke malfunction
 
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