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Discussion Starter #1
Three questions as of now

I have an aftermarket carb currently and an original in rough shape but I can clean it up. Are all the jets in an aftermarket carb usable in the original?

Also right now it starts without choke cold and stalls when choke is turned on while running cold, which would imply it's running rich?

I have a problem with the idle fluctuating i did notice when I turn the handle bars to the right the engine will stall. The idle will fluctuate while sitting still. Are these related?

In the end I'd like to run the original carb. Thanks for the help

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Three questions as of now

I have an aftermarket carb currently and an original in rough shape but I can clean it up. Are all the jets in an aftermarket carb usable in the original?
Nope.

Also right now it starts without choke cold and stalls when choke is turned on while running cold, which would imply it's running rich?
Yep.

I have a problem with the idle fluctuating i did notice when I turn the handle bars to the right the engine will stall. The idle will fluctuate while sitting still. Are these related?
Sounds like the throttle cable is mis-adjusted or routed short... but with a china made carb, no one can predict how many things might be wrong with it? So its impossible to diagnose anything from here.

In the end I'd like to run the original carb.
Don't hesitate, do it now.

Thanks for the help
You're always welcome! If your original carb can't be saved let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Three questions as of now

I have an aftermarket carb currently and an original in rough shape but I can clean it up. Are all the jets in an aftermarket carb usable in the original?
Nope.

Also right now it starts without choke cold and stalls when choke is turned on while running cold, which would imply it's running rich?
Yep.

Sounds like the throttle cable is mis-adjusted or routed short... but with a china made carb, no one can predict how many things might be wrong with it? So its impossible to diagnose anything from here.

In the end I'd like to run the original carb.
Don't hesitate, do it now.

Thanks for the help
You're always welcome! If your original carb can't be saved let us know!
I'm working on tearing it apart now so I can run it thru the machine at work but can't seem to get the throttle assembly apart.

How do I remove the part on the bottom shaft? I removed the rollpin just can't get it off. (Pic 1)

Does the cap on the other side have anything to do with it? (Pic 2)

Is the piece the needle goes thru removable? (Pic 3 sorry its upside down)

Not sure what its called but how do I remove it (Pic 4)


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oh man, your not suppose to remove the butter fly valve !. it's best to leave that alone. just remove all the jets, all rubber parts, drop it in your tank cleaner or how ever your gonna clean it ?, and put new jets/carb rebuild kit back in it. your gonna have one heck of a time pinging the butter fly valve screws now that you removed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oh man, your not suppose to remove the butter fly valve !. it's best to leave that alone. just remove all the jets, all rubber parts, drop it in your tank cleaner or how ever your gonna clean it ?, and put new jets/carb rebuild kit back in it. your gonna have one heck of a time pinging the butter fly valve screws now that you removed them.
Butter fly valve is in picture 4? I will attempt to put that back together. I have a parts washer at work that we use on semi transmission gears that I can run this carb thru

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oh man, your not suppose to remove the butter fly valve !. it's best to leave that alone. just remove all the jets, all rubber parts, drop it in your tank cleaner or how ever your gonna clean it ?, and put new jets/carb rebuild kit back in it. your gonna have one heck of a time pinging the butter fly valve screws now that you removed them.
Butter fly valve is in picture 4? I will attempt to put that back together. I have a parts washer at work that we use on semi transmission gears that I can run this carb thru

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yep, pic 4 shows the butter fly valve, you never mess with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh man, your not suppose to remove the butter fly valve !. it's best to leave that alone. just remove all the jets, all rubber parts, drop it in your tank cleaner or how ever your gonna clean it ?, and put new jets/carb rebuild kit back in it. your gonna have one heck of a time pinging the butter fly valve screws now that you removed them.
Butter fly valve is in picture 4? I will attempt to put that back together. I have a parts washer at work that we use on semi transmission gears that I can run this carb thru

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yep, pic 4 shows the butter fly valve, you never mess with those.
I will keep that in mind for the future. I will attempt to put it back in place

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and the 1st pic, lower part ?, that is known as the throttle cable cam :).
 

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Butter fly valve is in picture 4? I will attempt to put that back together. I have a parts washer at work that we use on semi transmission gears that I can run this carb thru

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yep, pic 4 shows the butter fly valve, you never mess with those.
I will keep that in mind for the future. I will attempt to put it back in place

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yeah...gonna be tough to ping those tiny screws back in place, and keep them there ?, loctight them back in once you get them back in, and pray they stay there..lol.
 

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Use compressed air to blow out all passages after the solvent bath and you should be good to go. Find a genuine Shindy kit for your carb if ya can... everything else is made in china and is useless.

You can reuse your original brass hard parts if you can get them clean without scratching or damaging them.

Use some JB-weld original formula epoxy on those butterfly screws when you reassemble it... center up the butterfly good so it closes without binding, then snug those two screws and wait 48 hours for the JB-weld to cure. It'll be perfect... no worries!
 

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I must ask you though... you aren't going to dunk the aluminum carb body into a Hot-Tank at work are you? Those highly acidic parts cleaning solutions can/will dissolve aluminum real quick!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Use compressed air to blow out all passages after the solvent bath and you should be good to go. Find a genuine Shindy kit for your carb if ya can... everything else is made in china and is useless.

You can reuse your original brass hard parts if you can get them clean without scratching or damaging them.

Use some JB-weld original formula epoxy on those butterfly screws when you reassemble it... center up the butterfly good so it closes without binding, then snug those two screws and wait 48 hours for the JB-weld to cure. It'll be perfect... no worries!
Great idea about the JB Weld and I'll see what I can find for a Shindy Kit

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The factory service manual has a great recommended carb setup procedure. Get yourself a copy HERE if you haven't one handy yet. Note that you'll be synchronizing the butterfly & piston by bending a tab and don't forget to adjust all cables when you put it back on the motor. Check the carb boot for cracks too... old machines can have cracking boots that are difficult to spot until you stretch them open a bit.
 

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The Shindy carb kit part number for an 86 Fourtrax TRX250 is: 03-017
Should cost you about $20 or so... make sure the kit you order is genuine Shindy, not fLeebay china knockoff crap.

Shindy Products, Inc. - ATV Replacement Parts

Don't use the fast setting JB-weld, use only the original formula stuff. For use in raw fuel you must allow the JB-weld to cure fully at room temperature for 48 hours minimum, rather than 24 hours as the instructions suggest. If your carb boot is cracking you can repair that using 3M Super-Fast urethane windshield sealer, which fully cures in 24 hours.

Keep a smile on... :) and let us know if we can help!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I must ask you though... you aren't going to dunk the aluminum carb body into a Hot-Tank at work are you? Those highly acidic parts cleaning solutions can/will dissolve aluminum real quick!
Nope, won't be using the hot tank. We have an aluminum safe parts washer much like the one below. It's nice working in a machine shop and being able to use the hot tank, parts washer, and blaster for personal use.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
@shadetree @retro Luckily I was able to have the screws back in the butterfly value very easily. I tightened them down for cleaning and will add the jbweld during final assembly. For the JB Weld do I want it on the threads or more the head of the screw?

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@shadetree @retro Luckily I was able to have the screws back in the butterfly value very easily. I tightened them down for cleaning and will add the jbweld during final assembly. For the JB Weld do I want it on the threads or more the head of the screw?

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never used jb on anything that was worth it..lol. but, I would put it on the head to valve, and on the other side where the screw tip pokes through the butter fly valve, don't put it on the threads incase you have no reason to ever remove it later on ?.
 

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@shadetree @retro Luckily I was able to have the screws back in the butterfly value very easily. I tightened them down for cleaning and will add the jbweld during final assembly. For the JB Weld do I want it on the threads or more the head of the screw?

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never used jb on anything that was worth it..lol. but, I would put it on the head to valve, and on the other side where the screw tip pokes through the butter fly valve, don't put it on the threads incase you have no reason to ever remove it later on ?.
Okay also I see something in the manual about a float baffle? What does that do and is it necessary? I know the aftermarket carbs don't have that

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I coat the holes and screw threads both with JB-weld. If you ever need to take those two screws back out for any reason, just heat them up to 550+ degrees (F) with a propane torch and easily unscrew them. JB-weld will last for decades in raw fuel environments as long as you use the slow setting stuff and allow 48 hours for a full cure. Works great in repairing missing well plugs in carbs, cracked floats, and pitted aluminum brake cylinder bores too.

I once fixed a cylinder bore (the wrist pin had lost its clip and the pin gouged the bore so deep it quit running mid-cut) on an old Homelite chainsaw that still runs great today... and that repair was done over 30 years ago!

:)
 

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The float baffle is a little plastic "hat" looking thing that fits over the lower end of the main jet/emulsifier tube casting. See photo below...

The baffle helps to prevent the main jet from sucking in air if the fuel in the bowl sloshes, or you ride on steep terrain.
 

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