[Skipp]

First I would like to say I have been reading this forum for a long while and it's great.

Pulled my bike out the other day after it had been sitting for a few months . She started right up so I pulled it out of the building shut her down topped of the gas and oil and headed out. After about a mile she started sputtering and coughin ,so I turned around and headed home. I was thinking maybe a little water in the gas so I replaced the filter emptied out and flushed the tank perged the lines and tore the carb down. Evert hing was cleaned and left to dry.

After putting it back together she works exactly the same ,when running with the breather tube off some fuel vapour can been seen coming from the carb and she blows black smoke. Also the plug is coated black and if she won't idle unless I pull the choke plunger then it will suck air through that hole and run much bether .

I am starting to wounder if I am even on the right track ,I have had the carb apart so many times I have lost count. Any input would be appreciated I need this thing to get my wood.

 

[j.dalton0309]

Same thing happened to an old rancher of mine and it turns out it was two things, the top end had been scared from the air filter falling off in the box and causing it to idle to high and the carb was screwed so I replaced those two parts and she ran like new

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[j.dalton0309]

I have a rancher now that did the identical thing that's going on with yours and all I had to do was install a new carb, I tried to rejet it and rebuild it but it kept failing so I just bought a new one

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[retro]

It sounds like your carb is in need of a good cleaning in a strong solvent. Those carbs are not available to buy anymore so you can't take a shortcut... They are rarely ever broken anyway, folks just replace carbs cause they don't know how to fix them. Honestly, I have never seen a junk OEM carb and I'm an elderly old fart!

You can buy a gallon can of carb cleaner (I forget the brand name, its common though) from an auto parts store for a soak, then disassemble the carb entirely and put only metal parts in the solvent to soak. Give it 24 hours or so... then take the parts out and blow out every passage, hole, etc. real good, then reassemble to specs using the service manual.

The OEM carb on your machine is probably in good condition... just needs a good cleaning and a refresh. You may find that it is ready for the soft rubber parts to be replaced (or some may be missing) and if so, a cheap carb kit off the fLeebay will get you those... just don't use any hard parts (jets or other metal parts) from the cheap china kits, cause they won't ever work!

Also while you have the carb in the soak and waiting... its a good time to check the valve adjustments and timing chain wear... and talk about this issue some more, cause maybe your carb boot is cracked or leaking or something else amiss somewhere.

If you have any questions come on back... If you need a step-by-step I can handle that too!

Keep us posted...

 

[Skipp]

I have ordered a carb kit, too bad it doesn't come with o rings for the choke valve. Timing chain was done not tool long ago. I have never used a dip to clean a carb before ( I have done a lot ) ,but will be getting one for this as soon as I find one local. I will be checking the valve clearness although iw was done with the timing chain. I appreciate the responses and will get back to you when my parts arrive.

 

[retro]

Even the cheap china kits include the lipped seal for the choke valve... hopefully you'll find it in there when it arrives. Keep us updated...

 

[Skipp]

Got a made in Japan kit as I wanted to swap out jets and all so hopefully it's there as the one in it looks well used.

 

[Goober]

The shindy kit is good if you don't need that little rubber plug on the jet in the bowl. Otherwise I agree your carb is dirty. I use Berryman Chem tool it is great--buy some pipe cleaners and swabs to wipe out the passages. The choke plunger passage goes from the front of the carb all the way through to the other side.
Drain that old gas too the chili pepper fourtrax fuel tank has a drain plug. Run premium gas with some sea foam.

One last thing your vacuum line may not be secure

 

[Goober]

I also bought a new choke valve runs great a bit rich too I think I need a new float

 

[Skipp]

What vacuum line would you be referring to ?not sure that I notice any.

 

[Goober]

You don't see any vacuum lines on your carb?

Looks like this one

 

[Skipp]

I have those but the manual calls then vents and they are open ended.

 

[Goober]

Yeah they are all hooked up to a single vent under the seat. I have one missing them and it's running real rich too. I think the carb is dirty and may need a new float
I turned off the petcock and when the bowl started to get low it ran real well so I suspect out of spec float might be flooding it a bit

 

[Skipp]

Took the carb off of my parts bike . Disassembled it and put it in the dip for 24 hours, what a waste of time that was. Maybe after a couple of years...Not sure might try soaking in something else.

 

[Okie]

Yeah they are all hooked up to a single vent under the seat. I have one missing them and it's running real rich too. I think the carb is dirty and may need a new float
I turned off the petcock and when the bowl started to get low it ran real well so I suspect out of spec float might be flooding it a bit

That turning of the gas petcock and the engine getting smoother after awhile kinda normal. Try it on a good bike and carb and when the carb starts running low on fuel the engine will usually speed up and run smooth then out of gas kinda surging at the very last. I think it is adding air or leaning out, but that is not really a sing of a bad float.

Go to the tech section on this site and read shadtrees hints for going thru the carb and do the throttle sync setting and be sure and get the little clip in the correct slot.

Worked for me. Reading the Service manual and shadtree's hints in the tech section. (carefully installing a kit after ultrasonic cleaning and low pressure air thru the carb jet holes.:wink

 

[shadetree]

You don't see any vacuum lines on your carb?

Looks like this one

this carb ( in pic )..does not have vacuum lines on them !. those are vent lines, and over flow lines, but mostly vent lines. they are not vacuum lines. the new carbs, like on the late model trx350 ranchers and so forth ?, they do have a vacuum line, because they have a air cut-off on them.

 

[shadetree]

any chance the choke is sticking/stuck ??. I highly recommend a carb rebuild kit if all else fails .

 

[Skipp]

Waiting on the rebuild kit right now. I was suspecting the choke as well as it seems to have little effect on how the bike runs,I took the cable off and just shoved it down the hole and it made no difference. I am wondering if the main jet is just wore as there seems to be a lot of gas spraying around from the needle. Unless maybe the seat for the choke plunger is wore and leaking by.

 

[shadetree]

Waiting on the rebuild kit right now. I was suspecting the choke as well as it seems to have little effect on how the bike runs,I took the cable off and just shoved it down the hole and it made no difference. I am wondering if the main jet is just wore as there seems to be a lot of gas spraying around from the needle. Unless maybe the seat for the choke plunger is wore and leaking by.

very posb !. keep in mind, a carb rebuild kit won't come with a choke enrichment valve ! ( most don't anyway ).

 

[misterclean59]

If any 4 stroke engine runs faster/better at idle just before it runs out of gas this is a sign that it is running too rich on the slow circuit. This may be normal to some of my friends out there but it is not the best tuning for the carb. Now a 2 stroke will run faster and this is a normal symptom if it is tuned correctly.