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I have my wife's grandfathers 84 TRX 200, which has been sitting for 10 years, after he passed. I've rewritten this post numerous times. Each time going back to the Honda shop manual and finally figuring out for myself. I've Ohm'd out the alternator, pulse generator and coil. The alternator and pulse generator show good. The coil is a mystery to me. I guess I don't clearly understand the shop manuals instructions.


I get .1 - .2 ohms between the terminals. I'm guessing that is the primary coil?

And I nothing from the coil wire to either terminal on the coil. I'm guessing it's bad? Also, does the coil and coil wire separate?


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welcome to the forums. odds are, your c.d.i. is bad. most spark plug coils hardly ever good bad> check your kill button, see if it's dirty under the cover ..contacts corrode over, spec after sitting 10 years !..lol. check for any rat or mice chew's in your wires !!.
 

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KC, I agree that the manual is a bit confusing about how and where to take the resistance measurements at the ignition coil. Your first measurement of .1 to .2 ohms between the terminals is indeed the primary circuit, and as your measurement shows, that is within spec. You also took the secondary circuit measurement correctly. I'm not sure which of the small pins that secondary circuit measurement is to be taken at, but since you took that measurement at both of the pins and got the same result, it must be correct at least for one of the pins. Anyway, your secondary circuit measurement showed infinite resistance, which is out of spec. It is supposed to be about 4.1k ohms. It would appear that there is an open in the secondary circuit, and the coil should be replaced to fix that. I don't know if the spark plug wire will separate from the coil, but I don't think it will.

If I were you, I would conduct a simple test before replacing any parts. This test will show if your problem is with the pulse generator/CDI unit, or the ignition coil. Here is what you have to do:

1. Make sure all ignition wiring is connected as it should be for normal operation.
2. Set your volt meter to an appropriate scale for reading 100 volts DC.
3. Attach your volt meter red probe to the black/yellow wire on the ignition coil. Attach the volt meter black probe to system ground.
4. Turn the engine over for a few seconds by turning the key on and running the starter. While doing this, observe your volt meter. If your pulse generator and CDI unit are good, you should see pulses on the volt meter. It should jump back and forth from zero to some voltage level (I don't know what the correct voltage level is for your ATV, but it may be 100 since that seems to be common among many other Honda ATV's.) The key thing here is that you should see these voltage pulses. If you see voltage pulses, then you know your pulse generator and CDI unit are good, and therefore if you still aren't getting a spark, then the ignition coil must be bad. On the other hand, if you don't see any voltage pulses while conducting this test, then you know your problem lies with your pulse generator or CDI unit, and further testing will be required on those components.

-Ken
 

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I saw shadetrees response and took apart the kill/light switch assembly. Both switches had gunk on them. I cleaned both of them up and noticed on the kill switch that there is spring that I think is supposed to hold the switch in what ever position you put it in. The kill switch is free to float to whatever position it wants to be in. I didn't notice this before I took the switch apart.

After I put everything back together, I used an inline spark tester to check for spark. And I have spark! The 200 will fire up. Now I'm waiting on my carb rebuild kits I ordered.

I also have my wife's dads 86 TRX 250 that has been sitting for the same amount of time. I took off both carbs and cleaned them. I put the 250's carb back on and started it up. It only runs by itself with the choke on. I'm hoping with the carb kit and a little tuning I can get it to run properly (and adjust the valves).

I picked up a carb connecting tube for the 200 and a rear end assemble for the 250 today. So I'll be busy for the next few weeks deciding which four wheeler to work on.

ktriebol, I didn't see your post until today, but that does look like some good info for me if any problems ever come up. Thanks for your help! Thank you too shadetree!


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I saw shadetrees response and took apart the kill/light switch assembly. Both switches had gunk on them. I cleaned both of them up and noticed on the kill switch that there is spring that I think is supposed to hold the switch in what ever position you put it in. The kill switch is free to float to whatever position it wants to be in. I didn't notice this before I took the switch apart.

After I put everything back together, I used an inline spark tester to check for spark. And I have spark! The 200 will fire up. Now I'm waiting on my carb rebuild kits I ordered.

I also have my wife's dads 86 TRX 250 that has been sitting for the same amount of time. I took off both carbs and cleaned them. I put the 250's carb back on and started it up. It only runs by itself with the choke on. I'm hoping with the carb kit and a little tuning I can get it to run properly (and adjust the valves).

I picked up a carb connecting tube for the 200 and a rear end assemble for the 250 today. So I'll be busy for the next few weeks deciding which four wheeler to work on.

ktriebol, I didn't see your post until today, but that does look like some good info for me if any problems ever come up. Thanks for your help! Thank you too shadetree!


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your very welcome bro !!..glad I could help another member ride again !. :). ride safe bro !. oh, and if it will run with choke ?..then that carb kit will make it purrrrrrrrrr again !.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've rebuilt the carb on the 84 TRX 200 and I put it back on. I tried starting it up with no luck. I have no spark again. I retested stator and pulse generator again. It's either the CDI or coil. I'm currently searching for a donor 84 200 for parts. Back to the carb, it started leaking gas from a vent pipe. I checked the float for holes while rebuilding. I also checked the float, needle and seat for proper operation. I really don't want to pull the carb back off, but I'll probably have to. To get the battery box, air box and carb off of the wheeler is a pain. Does anyone know an easier way to remove all of that stuff?


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Try lightly tapping on the CDI while trying to start it and see if it cranks/has spark. If it does, its a bad CDI..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's a bad CDI. Tapped on the CDI and it started firing. It doesn't fire consistently enough to adjust carb, but it did run.


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It's highly recommended to get an OEM. People have had mixed luck with the China knock off ones on eBay.




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agreed ^^^..butttttttttt..that may be discontinued by now from Honda ?..sooo..you may not have a choice, other than a china knock off c.d.i. ?. and I guess I was also right about the c.d.i. going out ?. glad you found the problem !.
 

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agreed ^^^..butttttttttt..that may be discontinued by now from Honda ?..sooo..you may not have a choice, other than a china knock off c.d.i. ?. and I guess I was also right about the c.d.i. going out ?. glad you found the problem !.




I didn't think they would have one either after I saw it was an '84..
 

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I found an older gentleman 1 1/2 hours away from that has them. He works on 3 wheelers and older 4 wheelers. He has a box of them. A lot cheaper than the ones on eBay. I may have drive back up there and get one or two. I also have a line on a "running" TRX 200 for cheap.


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I found an older gentleman 1 1/2 hours away from that has them. He works on 3 wheelers and older 4 wheelers. He has a box of them. A lot cheaper than the ones on eBay. I may have drive back up there and get one or two. I also have a line on a "running" TRX 200 for cheap.


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and this man knows everyone in that box works ??.is it worth the 1 1/2 drive both ways to find out ?..not to me it ain't !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The CDI box from the donor works, my wheeler fired right up. But it has a very high idle. Almost sounds like 1/2 - 3/4 throttle. After rebuilding the carb, I set everything to factory settings. I'm unsure how to throttle this thing down.


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My guess is that the throttle slide is not settled properly to its full depth in the carb body. This is a common problem in 70's and 80s Honda bikes - see my signature below.

There should be a cutout notch on your throttle slide that matches up to the idle speed screw. Spin your slide around to make them match up and your slide should fall deeper into the carb body.

Rick

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
My throttle slide will only go in one way, so I think that is in right way. I'll check to make sure though. Edit: I did check the throttle slide and it is in the correct way.




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I finally figured out my throttle problem. There is a nut at the end of the throttle cable by the carb. This was turned all the way out, pulling the the throttle valve up.

I got to ride it for the first time Saturday. I'm just glad I finally figured it out after months of just walking past it.


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I finally figured out my throttle problem. There is a nut at the end of the throttle cable by the carb. This was turned all the way out, pulling the the throttle valve up.

I got to ride it for the first time Saturday. I'm just glad I finally figured it out after months of just walking past it.


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Awesome! Sometimes it takes walking away for a little while to get things worked out.. lol


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KC, I agree that the manual is a bit confusing about how and where to take the resistance measurements at the ignition coil. Your first measurement of .1 to .2 ohms between the terminals is indeed the primary circuit, and as your measurement shows, that is within spec. You also took the secondary circuit measurement correctly. I'm not sure which of the small pins that secondary circuit measurement is to be taken at, but since you took that measurement at both of the pins and got the same result, it must be correct at least for one of the pins. Anyway, your secondary circuit measurement showed infinite resistance, which is out of spec. It is supposed to be about 4.1k ohms. It would appear that there is an open in the secondary circuit, and the coil should be replaced to fix that. I don't know if the spark plug wire will separate from the coil, but I don't think it will.

If I were you, I would conduct a simple test before replacing any parts. This test will show if your problem is with the pulse generator/CDI unit, or the ignition coil. Here is what you have to do:

1. Make sure all ignition wiring is connected as it should be for normal operation.
2. Set your volt meter to an appropriate scale for reading 100 volts DC.
3. Attach your volt meter red probe to the black/yellow wire on the ignition coil. Attach the volt meter black probe to system ground.
4. Turn the engine over for a few seconds by turning the key on and running the starter. While doing this, observe your volt meter. If your pulse generator and CDI unit are good, you should see pulses on the volt meter. It should jump back and forth from zero to some voltage level (I don't know what the correct voltage level is for your ATV, but it may be 100 since that seems to be common among many other Honda ATV's.) The key thing here is that you should see these voltage pulses. If you see voltage pulses, then you know your pulse generator and CDI unit are good, and therefore if you still aren't getting a spark, then the ignition coil must be bad. On the other hand, if you don't see any voltage pulses while conducting this test, then you know your problem lies with your pulse generator or CDI unit, and further testing will be required on those components.

-Ken
On your cdi box if you have two wires one is red and white and the other is red and black. If you replace your box though wire might have to be flip
 
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