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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked up a project bike. The damage, front brake lines cut, no seat or rear plastics, two flat rear tires. I have a newer ebay starter that came with it and the battery is on the charger.

First thing I did is check compression after 5 pulls it was 100 psi. Then spark which I didnt have. Tried different plug same result. The ignition coil looks like it was replaced but cant be working or the problem is somewhere else.

I do have a multimeter but dont no what to check when the battery is in.
 

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No spark could be caused by a few different things. The first thing that I would check on the 200 is the pulse generator/rotor air gap. The 200 had the pulse generator and rotor at the end of the cam, on the side of the head, behind a round metal cover. I would check to make sure the rotor and pulse generator are clean and free of any rust. Then I would make sure the air gap is correct. If it's not correct, you won't have spark.

If that's not the problem, it could be the ignition coil, CDI, pulse generator, or stator. I would recommend getting a repair manual, if you don't already have one, to get the specs. for testing the components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The guy that I bought it from said he would send a manual. I did already order a new coil and regulator on a whim. I dont have any free time till thursday so maybe it will all be here by then.

Ill tear into the pulse generator. Gives me somewhere to start. Do you know the proper gap off the top of your head?

The battery ended up being good and I still have a starter to put on but Im not to worried about that yet.

Is there a reason I cant shift to reverse? It moves for hi and low.
 

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Do you know the proper gap off the top of your head?
The pulse generator/rotor air gap for the 1984 ATC200S, which has the same setup, is 0.012-0.016 in, so it's probably the same.

Is there a reason I cant shift to reverse? It moves for hi and low.
Are you pulling up on the shift lever when you move it? If so, then I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have to get a better screwdriver to get the pulse cover off. So I cant look at that yet.

I put in the new coil and still no spark. The starter solenoid barely will spark when I touch both ends with a screw driver. I didnt waist my time putting the newer starter in. The current one does not crank or make a sound at all.

The first pic shows my $50 beauty and the next is showing what looks to be a missing wire by the hi/low shifter.

Another shows the regulator with a broken connector piece.
 

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The starter solenoid barely will spark when I touch both ends with a screw driver.
Sounds like the battery is about dead.

the next is showing what looks to be a missing wire by the hi/low shifter.
The 1984 Fourtrax 200 was the first 4-wheeler that I owned, but it's been so long I can't remember, but I'm guessing that, that wire goes to the reverse switch. When you said it wouldn't go into reverse, did you mean the reverse light won't light up or did you mean that it wouldn't actually go into reverse? That wire missing is probably why the reverse light won't light up if that's what you meant.

BTW, does the neutral light come on when you turn the key on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you said it wouldn't go into reverse, did you mean the reverse light won't light up or did you mean that it wouldn't actually go into reverse? That wire missing is probably why the reverse light won't light up if that's what you meant.
It wont move physically. I dont see any neutral or reverse lights on the quad. Now this wire wont stop the engine from sparking?

BTW, does the neutral light come on when you turn the key on?
no key. It has a off, on, off switch on the handle grips with a light control under and a button to start.
 

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Now this wire wont stop the engine from sparking?
If it's the reverse sensor, it shouldn't.

no key. It has a off, on, off switch on the handle grips with a light control under and a button to start.
The one that I had, had a plastic piece that bolted to the center of the handlebars with a keyswitch, a green neutral light, a red reverse light, and I think it had another red light for the oil temp light. It looked about like the piece with keyswitch on the Fourtrax 300. The handlebar switch with the light control and on/off switch and start button is normal, but it should have the plastic piece in the center of the handlebars with the keyswitch and lights.

If someone took the reverse light off, they probably just cut the wire to the reverse switch. If that is, in fact, the reverse switch, it won't keep it from running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
a green neutral light, a red reverse light
I found that on ebay but they all have a hole where the key would go. This is just a signal for the user? If not can I bypass it.

I pulled the cdi and it reads nothing. Is there a good place to buy them used or am I stuck buying it new?
 

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I found that on ebay but they all have a hole where the key would go. This is just a signal for the user? If not can I bypass it.
If you don't want to use a keyswitch, you could install a toggle switch in place of the keyswitch. You may not be able to buy a keyswitch for that model anymore, but you could probably make a keyswitch from another ATV work if you wanted to.

I pulled the cdi and it reads nothing. Is there a good place to buy them used or am I stuck buying it new?
How did you try to test the CDI, as they're is no test for a CDI other than to replace it with a known good one. You can buy used ones on Ebay.

Honda TRX200 Fourtrax 200 84 CDI 122567: eBay Motors (item 110551643764 end time Jul-25-10 10:33:45 PDT)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had a page from a atc200 manual that said to measure resistance from the back of the cdi box. I tried all the prongs and didnt get any readings. The other side of the connector gave off readings in the 30 range but nothing to show me what there supposed to be.
 

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I had a page from a atc200 manual that said to measure resistance from the back of the cdi box. I tried all the prongs and didnt get any readings. The other side of the connector gave off readings in the 30 range but nothing to show me what there supposed to be.
All the manuals that I've seen just show checks for the harness side of the CDI plug and not for the CDI, itself. As far as I know there's no way to test a CDI, other than replacing with a known good one.
 

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i know this post is old, and im resurrecting it, because ive been searching for help on my spark issue on my 84 trx200. anyways, i have a factory honda manual and here is the page on cdi testing. also, this torrent file has factory service manuals for any atv you may own. go through and pick out the ones you want, or download the whole 12 gig file and have a reference for anything you ever do. ATV Service manuals
 

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Honda claims the CDI tests are not accurate unless tested with a Sanwa SP10D or SP15D. And then, sometimes, they will test good when they're not. Now, most shops just keep a known good CDI to switch out to test them. And that's why the manuals for the newer models don't list a CDI test in the service manuals.
 
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