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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Need some help....rebuilt 185s everything "looks" like she should run but not even a back fire. Have spark, fuel, 100# compression but still nothing. I read you can not have timing out 180 but sure seems like the problem. Ir doesnt fire with starter fluid, but sparks across a test plug. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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if it wont fire on starting fluid ?, then the timing is off.
 

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Shadetree... I have lobes down,flywheel on "F" all marks dead on. Would one tooth make a difference? New timing chain and tension rods and cam gear. Feels tight. and thanks for the quick reply.
 

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Shadetree... I have lobes down,flywheel on "F" all marks dead on. Would one tooth make a difference? New timing chain and tension rods and cam gear. Feels tight. and thanks for the quick reply.
there's your problem right there !!!..you dont use the F mark on flywheel !, you need the T mark on the flywheel to show in the sight hole. did you remove the valves, and check them to see if they were bent ?.
 

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in other words concerning the T mark, lobes down, T mark in sight hole, punch marks on cam sprocket lined up, rotor lined up, piston on top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke..and not EXHAUST stroke ?..it should fire and run.
 

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i'll try my best to explain how to fix this, so bare with me :). you will need to get the cam chain back off the cam sprocket, so you can get the piston on top dead center on the compression stroke. once the piston is on top dead center on the compression stroke ?, line up the cam sprocket to the index punch marks, put the cam chain on the sprocket, while keeping the punch marks and index marks still lined up. now make sure your rotor is lined up to the pick up coil, if you get all this done correctly ?, re-check your work. you can do this by reading my sticky on ' how to set-adjust valves on all 4-strokes ''. this sticky will guide you through the process of making sure you have everything set correctly, so when you crank it over ?..it should fire and run :).
 
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Ok Shadetree....got it to run for 30 seconds, now she acts like it wants to run but cant get it to. I have been using a drill to turn it over it will fire a couple times and thats it. I am thinking fuel? What your thoughts. Thanks
 

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Ok Shadetree....got it to run for 30 seconds, now she acts like it wants to run but cant get it to. I have been using a drill to turn it over it will fire a couple times and thats it. I am thinking fuel? What your thoughts. Thanks
yeah, sounds like a carb issue ?, fuel issue ?. unless you haven't got the timing dialed in ?.
 

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if timing is good ?, I stand on my comments on carb and fuel :).
 

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Go to amazon and find the atc 185/200 doesn’t matter, which has good reviews and run it. I’ve installed so many of them and they work fine. I know there’s dislike for them here and other places. They have to be tuned and adjusted out of the box.
if you talking about china knock-off carbs ?, most are junk right out of the box, nothing beats oem carb's for our atvs. they are cheap for a reason. we try our best to tell members who join to stick with oem parts ?, but as time goes on, even honda has proven that china parts are making their place in honda boxes/bags..lol.
 

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Go to amazon and find the atc 185/200 doesn’t matter, which has good reviews and run it. I’ve installed so many of them and they work fine. I know there’s dislike for them here and other places. They have to be tuned and adjusted out of the box.
if you talking about china knock-off carbs ?, most are junk right out of the box, nothing beats oem carb's for our atvs. they are cheap for a reason. we try our best to tell members who join to stick with oem parts ?, but as time goes on, even honda has proven that china parts are making their place in honda boxes/bags..lol.
Yes. From my experience, they’re only as good as the installer.

I’ve done the OE carb rebuilds and sometimes it’s just not serviceable. When I get the replacement carbs, I tear them down and clean them just to be safe. From there I set the float (if/as needed) and set the air/fuel circuit to 2.5 turns out. This will get the bike started, from there just have to set air/fuel mixture and you’re good to go.

No, they’re not built on the same quality as OE, but they work damn good. I’ve installed and tuned many of them. Still running today.

By the way, the rebuild kit you quoted is from China, that is also used in the Chinese carburetor. Spend $5-10 more and get the whole assembly.
shindy rebuild carb kits ( from the package and what I know ? ) are made in japan.
 

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pretty sure the words on here says ' shindy carb kits are made in japan '' --> https://www.shindypro.com/carb_repair_kits.html .
I hate to say it, but they’re not. Their products sell for the same price as their Chinese counterparts on amazon. Quality is good, so they may be made in Taiwan.

I’ve torn down several of the Chinese carbs (good review ones on amazon/eBay) and the internals are identical. Internal tube sizes are a hair smaller than oem, but they flow just fine.

Try one, you may be very surprised. 100% successful on 2 300’s, 1 450es, 2 atc 125/110 & 2 atc 185’s.

Installer has to use everything with the Chinese carburetor, such as the slide or choke piston.
so what your saying is..they are false advertising then..correct ?. then again..in todays market, even parts from parzilla is made in china..would not surprise me one bit. but I know this..i'll never buy a china carb from ebay or amazon, won't waste my time and money on cheap junk.
 

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I hate to say it, but they’re not. Their products sell for the same price as their Chinese counterparts on amazon. Quality is good, so they may be made in Taiwan.

I’ve torn down several of the Chinese carbs (good review ones on amazon/eBay) and the internals are identical. Internal tube sizes are a hair smaller than oem, but they flow just fine.

Try one, you may be very surprised. 100% successful on 2 300’s, 1 450es, 2 atc 125/110 & 2 atc 185’s.

Installer has to use everything with the Chinese carburetor, such as the slide or choke piston.
so what your saying is..they are false advertising then..correct ?. then again..in todays market, even parts from parzilla is made in china..would not surprise me one bit. but I know this..i'll never buy a china carb from ebay or amazon, won't waste my time and money on cheap junk.
Yes, they’re made in Taiwan or China. I’ve bought a carb kit from them and also have a atc110 valve set from shingy. Company name is Asian, implying Japanese, but shingy is not a Japanese word. Shingi or Shinji would be phonetically correct. (i grew up there)

If tuned correctly, Carbs and other parts made by Caltric & RaceDriven on eBay/ Amazon work well. Do they beat oem? No way. Are they a good, cost effective alternative? Yes. I have a box full of stock OE carbs that are all gummed up. Not even worth the time.
I never said shingy ?..its shindy..maybe this is why you got china kits ?.
 

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Yes, they’re made in Taiwan or China. I’ve bought a carb kit from them and also have a atc110 valve set from shingy. Company name is Asian, implying Japanese, but shingy is not a Japanese word. Shingi or Shinji would be phonetically correct. (i grew up there)

If tuned correctly, Carbs and other parts made by Caltric & RaceDriven on eBay/ Amazon work well. Do they beat oem? No way. Are they a good, cost effective alternative? Yes. I have a box full of stock OE carbs that are all gummed up. Not even worth the time.
I never said shingy ?..its shindy..maybe this is why you got china kits ?.
You’re correct, I missspelled the word. However, shindy still is still not a Japanese word. It would be shindi which isn’t a known word.
well, until proof is made ?, i'm gonna keep on believing they are made in japan, to each their own I guess :).
 
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