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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up two 400ex’s. One the motor is all together just missing cam chain tensioner and the other has the top end off(also the head is missing). On the black one the wiring looks like a mess. Plus I also noticed the little fuse box is missing off both of them. How could I go about wiring the black one without it?? I did some research and found out the negative battery terminal gets grounded to the frame while the positive goes to right but on solenoid. Then the other post goes to the starter if I remember correctly. Do I need that fuse thingy? Thanks



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japanise wiring is way different, plus running without fuses, is like riding a bomb. someone here will give you better advice than i can. welcome
 

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Discussion Starter #3
japanise wiring is way different, plus running without fuses, is like riding a bomb. someone here will give you better advice than i can. welcome


Alright hope so. Yeah as you can see wires are just dangling in some spots too! Not sure what someone was trying to accomplish. Thanks man


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Welcome to the forums! I agree running without a fuse is a very bad idea. There isnt a fuse panel on a 400ex. Just a few fuses in individual holders. Any autoparts store sells them for a few bucks without a fuse but with some wire ends ready to wire in. As far as the wiring it part goes i would get a manual for it to see the wiring diagram. Electrical problems are a real pain to iron out. I generally turn and run from this type of quad. The wiring being hacked up is going to be a never ending gremlin unless you really know what your doing. Wire harnasses are worth there weight in gold and can be found on ebay that arent all hacked up. My .02
 

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Where are you located? I have a parts 1999 parts 400ex wiring harness, that I would be willing to sell you. Not looking to ship.
 

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Where are you located? I have a parts 1999 parts 400ex wiring harness, that I would be willing to sell you. Not looking to ship.


Vermont but it’s all good now. I took another crack at it yesterday and figured out what’s going on. The two yellow cables that come off the wiring harness were the ones missing the plugs, and the red male connector goes to fuse. Someone spliced a blue wire into both the solenoid cables and hacked them up. I know where all the wires need to go, just got to figure out how to put connectors back on


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Glad you got it figured out. Let us know if you need any more assistance
 
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Glad you got it figured out. Let us know if you need any more assistance


How’s the exhaust muffler suppose to mount on?? I have a FmF q4 pipe and it doesn’t slip on the header. Also is a gasket needed to go on cam chain tensioner for testing purposes? I just want to see if this engines runs.


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Take a picture of what your talking about with the pipe. Some fmf's required a mid pipe to work with the stock header. Also the tensioner does have a gasket. If its missing it will leak a good amount of oil.
 
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Ok so I must have wired it correctly since the ignition work and the start button makes the solenoid click. The starter motor still doesn’t work. I have one of those test lights and when I put it on the right post it lights but on the left post it doesn’t and that’s the one that goes to the starter. Does that mean my solenoid is bad??? I adjusted the valves so that the feeler gauge can just barely slide under. Im pretty sure I did that right. I also put the manual tensioner in till I couldn’t turn by hand then a lil more. Also I tried bump starting it and it would run for a little while I pushed it then as soon as gas was given its stall. Also one time it back fired sending smoke through carb. Carb dirty?? There was a mouse in the gas tank so there might be crud in carb. Or timing off?? What u guys think


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If you cross the solenoid with a screw driver and hit the start button does the starter turn over? You can also put 12v straight to the side lug of the starter and see if it spins when you do that. If it dosnt your starter is fired crispy.
 

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If you cross the solenoid with a screw driver and hit the start button does the starter turn over? You can also put 12v straight to the side lug of the starter and see if it spins when you do that. If it dosnt your starter is fired crispy.
jumped many a solenoid with a screw driver. you did say you had a new fully charged battery, didnt you? new fully charged= it will hold 12 volts, for a while, dont have to be new.. a day to years could mean a while to me.
 
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If you cross the solenoid with a screw driver and hit the start button does the starter turn over? You can also put 12v straight to the side lug of the starter and see if it spins when you do that. If it dosnt your starter is fired crispy.


Tried that, sometimes it sparks and other times it doesn’t. Should I connect the starter cable directly to the positive on the battery and see if it turns over? Also do you think the carb is dirty or out of time?


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So I took off the carb and cleaned it. When bump starting it I still get the same thing, it’ll run for a little as long as I keep it rolling but when I give it any gas it dies out. Suggestions?


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Could be any number of things. Timing, ignition issue(cdi box,sheered woodruff key). Any random wiring issue. The possibilities are endless.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Could be any number of things. Timing, ignition issue(cdi box,sheered woodruff key). Any random wiring issue. The possibilities are endless.


I’m pretty sure the solenoid is bad or the wires going to the harness from it don’t have a good connection. Does the bike need the solenoid to run? Only way to check my timing is to remove top engine cover right?


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It will run and stay running with no solenoid at all. The solenoid is only for sending power to the starter motor to crank over. It may be bad and you may be correct. But its not the reason it wont stay running when push started. And yes checking timing requires valve cover removal. Putting the crank on the |T mark at TDC and looking at the indexing marks on the side of the cam sprocket.
 

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It will run and stay running with no solenoid at all. The solenoid is only for sending power to the starter motor to crank over. It may be bad and you may be correct. But its not the reason it wont stay running when push started. And yes checking timing requires valve cover removal. Putting the crank on the |T mark at TDC and looking at the indexing marks on the side of the cam sprocket.


Well I removed the starter motor wire and rechecked the solenoid and it’s fine. The wire was spliced into another wire but they werent even touching. It was causing some shit with the solenoid. I also swapped out voltage regulater and Cdi from my parts one. Had someone drag me behind and she started up!! Runs great with no smoke and no knocking that I could here. I have to double check timing chain tension and make sure it’s not too tight. Only thing I noticed is it backfires a little when you let it engine break. Could that be caused by dirty air filter? Or maybe I messed up the valves too tight??


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So the cdi or rectifier fixed it. Popping on decel is a sign of lean jetting. Usually its lean on the pilot jet that causes it.
 

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So the cdi or rectifier fixed it. Popping on decel is a sign of lean jetting. Usually its lean on the pilot jet that causes it.

Ok that’s what I was thinking. Can’t get to the air/ fuel screw though w the carb mounted on. If you guys know a trick to get to the screw without taking the carb off let me know. Also the air filter is quite dirty could that contribute?? I tried to rewire the starter to the solenoid, but every time I connect it and press the start button i can see the negative on the battery grounding out. Don’t know what’s going on here :/


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