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My 87mm cometic gasket kit was 59.99 from alba racing. 90 bucks is highway robbery.
Posts by SlammedRanger
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It is 2 full plates thicker chain. It fits in the stock guides perfectly though. The stock chains stretch consistently. The crf450 chain dosnt.
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Head gasket will work. But it will have slightly less sealing area. 2mm to be exact. I have used both and had zero issue from either way. Just be sure you torque to 40 ft lbs and you heat cycle 3 times and then remove valve cover and re-torque. Also when torquing the first time follow the 3 steps and the sequence and let it sit for 15-20 minutes then go back and check one more time at 40 before final assembly.
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Move the clip one slot down. So closer to the pointed tip.
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No other gaskets needed. But i would suggest pulling the lower case filter screen and cleaning it with brake clean.
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Is it just my eyes or does that front stud look crooked? It could just be an illusion. But it appears to be leaning forward a good bit?
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Honestly there are big gains to be made from head porting. But that being said my head isnt ported much. My engine machine shop guy did a few small casting mark touch ups but nothing crazy at all. He flow benched it and said it flows pretty well for not having any real porting done. The cam and 416 kit will wake it up alot reguardless. I even did +1 valves with basically stock porting and noticed a big gain. You will be limited mostly in your stock carb. The 400ex carb dosnt flow well at all. The fcr is 100% the way to go.
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Clutch Center Staked Nut 80 ft lbs and re stake it of course
The clutch spring bolts there isnt a specific torque. Just snug them done 100s like this with no problem
Primary Drive Gear Nut 65 ft lbs
The clutch spring bolts there isnt a specific torque. Just snug them done 100s like this with no problem
Primary Drive Gear Nut 65 ft lbs
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And just a reminder. As i have forgotten this two dang many times. Before you torque those head stud bolts please put the front timing chain guide in. It gets sandwhiched between the head and jug. I have personally ruined 3 head gaskets this way on various models over the years. Its a friggen bummer believe me lol
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I agree with the heat not being an issue to an extent. But i cant help but notice there are sand tires on this quad. And if hes riding in sand then he will 100% have over heating issues. I only ride a sand quarry sometimes and it get so hot i can feel the heat come up through the seat. Sand is a whole different animal. Its like your riding in an oven.
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Your welcome bro! Always glad to help!
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Done this before^^^^^. The detent that holds the choke in the positions is worn out. There is a tiny little ball in the plastic that drops into the holes in the metal plate with the screw that holds the arm on. Either the ball is gone or the metal plate has a groove in it.
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Your welcome! The bungee trick works. Ive ran more then a few races that way. Until i got the fcr. It uses a pull out plunger style instead of a lever action choke.
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Those nunbers are high. Not insanely high. But higher then i would like to see. Although it is winter and temps will be cold so it will be running leaner then when your riding in the summer. It is very very hard to jet properly in the winter. I would suggest waiting till it warms up to your normal ambient air temp to jet it. But again if your riding sand dunes go up a few extra steps on the main and i wouldnt be shocked if you need a 45 pilot jet. Full pipe, cam, 416kit i was running a 45 pilot with mixture around 2 turns out.
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If you want to PM me your email or phone number i can send you my setup. I used a 4 or 5 inch spal water proof dust proof fan and i mounted it on the engine side of the oil cooler. I used a puller fan so it pulls cool air through the vents in my hood and blows right at the head cooling fins. You can feel air on your hand holding about a foot from each side of the engine. I also wired it on the stock headlight switch since i dont have a headlight anymore.
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