I put my 2004 Honda 400ex away for winter last season running. Yesterday I took it out for summer, and of course did all the basic maintenance, and it won't start. I've established that it has no spark. What are some possibilities of what the problem might be? thanks!
400ex has no spark please help
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There are several possibilities. Spark plug bad, kill switch corroded or turned off, ignition switch bad, shifter not in neutral, or the neutral light harness frayed/unplugged, etc. Get a copy of the FSM and run through the troubleshooting flow chart in the ignition section. I imagine you'll find it is simple to fix.
Welcome to the forums!
Welcome to the forums!
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1,371 Posts
If it had spark when you put it away and now it doesn't the first thing I would check is for wiring chewed by mice. Damn critters
Rob
Rob
I put a brand new sparkplug in so that's not the issue. The kill switch is definitely on and the shifter is in neutral. I'm going to try to troubleshoot it and see if I can get it to start. I'll also run through all my wires and make sure no one has chewed them. I'll let you know. I appreciate the suggestions
I went through all the wiring and it's all good. I also looked through the owners manual (thanks @retro) at the troubleshooting ignition section and it was telling me things like
Low peak voltage
No peak voltage
Peak voltage is normal, but no spark jumps at plug.
-How do I figure out the voltage of my Atv?^^
PROBABLE CAUSE
1. Incorrect peak voltage adaptor connections. (System is normal if measured
voltage is over the specifications with reverse connections.)
2. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
3. Cranking speed is too low.
* Battery is undercharged.
4. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
5. Poorly connected connectors or an open circuit in ignition system.
6. Faulty exciter coil. (Measure peak voltage.)
7. Faulty ignition coil.
8. Faulty ignition control module (ICM) (when above No. 1 through 7
are normal.)
1. Incorrect peak voltage adaptor connections. (System is normal if measured
voltage is over the specifications with reverse connections.)
2. Short circuit in engine stop switch (blacklwhite) wire.
3. Faulty ignition switch or engine stop switch.
4. Loose or poorly connected ICM connectors.
5. Open circuit or poor connection in ground (greenlwhite) wire of
6. Faulty peakvoltage adaptor.
7. faulty exciter coil. (Measure peak voltage.)
8. Faulty ignition pulse generator. (Measure peak voltage.)
9. Faulty ICM (when above No. 1 through 8 are normal.)
1. Faulty spark plug or leaking ignition coil secondary current ampere.
2. Faultv ianition coil.
the ICM.
1. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
2. Cranking speed is too slow.
* Battery is undercharged.
3. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
4. Faulty exciter coil (when above No. 1 through 3 are normal).
1. Faulty peak voltage adaptor.
2. Faulty exciter coil.
1. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
2. Cranking speed is too slow.
* Battery is undercharged.
3. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
4. Faulty ignition pulse generator (when above No. 1 through 3 are
normal).
1. Faulty peak voltage adaptor.
2. Faulty ignition pulse generator.
-I have all the tools I need, but i don't have all the testers that are involved with the electrical system that I would need to troubleshoot some of the things on there. Do you think I should just take it in to Honda? I know my battery isn't undercharged, but how do I test for something like a "faulty peak voltage adapter"?
-And I also wanted to mention... when I bought my new spark plug, it was in the box and I know it's the right one, but when I went home and put it in, the coil was not gripping it.. it was just sitting on the spark plug loosely if you know what I'm saying.. so I took the spark plug out and ended up screwing a little cap on top where the thread is. When I put it in the coil, it fit and was holding like it should. Do you think that has something to do with it? The spark plug that was in it before didn't have one of those caps screwed on on top. But I didn't do the last spark plug change because I just traded my old raptor 660 for my now 400ex last season.
Low peak voltage
No peak voltage
Peak voltage is normal, but no spark jumps at plug.
-How do I figure out the voltage of my Atv?^^
PROBABLE CAUSE
1. Incorrect peak voltage adaptor connections. (System is normal if measured
voltage is over the specifications with reverse connections.)
2. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
3. Cranking speed is too low.
* Battery is undercharged.
4. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
5. Poorly connected connectors or an open circuit in ignition system.
6. Faulty exciter coil. (Measure peak voltage.)
7. Faulty ignition coil.
8. Faulty ignition control module (ICM) (when above No. 1 through 7
are normal.)
1. Incorrect peak voltage adaptor connections. (System is normal if measured
voltage is over the specifications with reverse connections.)
2. Short circuit in engine stop switch (blacklwhite) wire.
3. Faulty ignition switch or engine stop switch.
4. Loose or poorly connected ICM connectors.
5. Open circuit or poor connection in ground (greenlwhite) wire of
6. Faulty peakvoltage adaptor.
7. faulty exciter coil. (Measure peak voltage.)
8. Faulty ignition pulse generator. (Measure peak voltage.)
9. Faulty ICM (when above No. 1 through 8 are normal.)
1. Faulty spark plug or leaking ignition coil secondary current ampere.
2. Faultv ianition coil.
the ICM.
1. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
2. Cranking speed is too slow.
* Battery is undercharged.
3. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
4. Faulty exciter coil (when above No. 1 through 3 are normal).
1. Faulty peak voltage adaptor.
2. Faulty exciter coil.
1. The multimeter impedance is too low; 10 MOIDCV.
2. Cranking speed is too slow.
* Battery is undercharged.
3. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not
synchronized. (System is normal if measured voltage is over the
standard voltage at least once.)
4. Faulty ignition pulse generator (when above No. 1 through 3 are
normal).
1. Faulty peak voltage adaptor.
2. Faulty ignition pulse generator.
-I have all the tools I need, but i don't have all the testers that are involved with the electrical system that I would need to troubleshoot some of the things on there. Do you think I should just take it in to Honda? I know my battery isn't undercharged, but how do I test for something like a "faulty peak voltage adapter"?
-And I also wanted to mention... when I bought my new spark plug, it was in the box and I know it's the right one, but when I went home and put it in, the coil was not gripping it.. it was just sitting on the spark plug loosely if you know what I'm saying.. so I took the spark plug out and ended up screwing a little cap on top where the thread is. When I put it in the coil, it fit and was holding like it should. Do you think that has something to do with it? The spark plug that was in it before didn't have one of those caps screwed on on top. But I didn't do the last spark plug change because I just traded my old raptor 660 for my now 400ex last season.
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6 Posts
Lets back up... does the neutral light come on when you turn the ignition switch on?
Does the starter crank the motor over?
If both of the above are yes, take the spark plug out and snap the plug wire back on the plug. Then lay it on the head so that the outer body of the spark plug is grounded and where you can see the plug gap clearly. Turn ignition on and press the starter button... do you see spark jumping the plug gap?
If no spark, operate the kill switch a few times then return it to the "Run" position. Crank the motor over with the starter and look for spark jumping the plug gap again.
Test for spark in a dark place so you can see spark when it happens.... then come back and report and we'll move on to the next steps. Sound OK to you?
Does the starter crank the motor over?
If both of the above are yes, take the spark plug out and snap the plug wire back on the plug. Then lay it on the head so that the outer body of the spark plug is grounded and where you can see the plug gap clearly. Turn ignition on and press the starter button... do you see spark jumping the plug gap?
If no spark, operate the kill switch a few times then return it to the "Run" position. Crank the motor over with the starter and look for spark jumping the plug gap again.
Test for spark in a dark place so you can see spark when it happens.... then come back and report and we'll move on to the next steps. Sound OK to you?
I just got back from the dealer about an hour ago. They said they're gonna call me back in a day or two and let me know what it needs. @retro I did exactly what you said and there is no spark. One of my neighbors told me that. That's exactly where I left off with it but I just wanna ride now its been too long haha
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6 Posts
Did you try another cdi box
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