[400exrider15]

What is the cheapest and easiest way to make a 400ex run cooler? I dont want any ordinary answer like, "Get the UM Racing Oil Tank". I also have a problem with keeping my oil tank full of oil. My 400ex doesn't burn any oil either, i know that because it does not smoke. When I changed the oil, I drained both the external tank and the crankcase. I filled the external with a about a quart or so, started it, let it run for 30 secs, and shut off, I then put more oil in and checked the dipstick, started it again, let it run for 30 secs, checked it again, and maybe put another 100ml or so. I then started it and repeated the process, and it finally said FULL. I rode for a little while, came back and it was 3/4 full. Please explain to me why it keeps sucking oil!!! Im using the 20W-50 Synthetic (gold Bottle) oil. I had to open up a 3rd quart i purchased to keep it saying full...I dont understand this one bit...

 

[shadetree]

What is the cheapest and easiest way to make a 400ex run cooler? I dont want any ordinary answer like, "Get the UM Racing Oil Tank". I also have a problem with keeping my oil tank full of oil. My 400ex doesn't burn any oil either, i know that because it does not smoke. When I changed the oil, I drained both the external tank and the crankcase. I filled the external with a about a quart or so, started it, let it run for 30 secs, and shut off, I then put more oil in and checked the dipstick, started it again, let it run for 30 secs, checked it again, and maybe put another 100ml or so. I then started it and repeated the process, and it finally said FULL. I rode for a little while, came back and it was 3/4 full. Please explain to me why it keeps sucking oil!!! Im using the 20W-50 Synthetic (gold Bottle) oil. I had to open up a 3rd quart i purchased to keep it saying full...I dont understand this one bit...

if your loosing oil ( not staying at the full level )..then you have a oil leak somewhere ?..or your burning oil from the engine ...if you say it don't smoke when you run it..then you got a leak somewhere.

 

[400exrider15]

What is the cheapest and easiest way to make a 400ex run cooler? I dont want any ordinary answer like, "Get the UM Racing Oil Tank". I also have a problem with keeping my oil tank full of oil. My 400ex doesn't burn any oil either, i know that because it does not smoke. When I changed the oil, I drained both the external tank and the crankcase. I filled the external with a about a quart or so, started it, let it run for 30 secs, and shut off, I then put more oil in and checked the dipstick, started it again, let it run for 30 secs, checked it again, and maybe put another 100ml or so. I then started it and repeated the process, and it finally said FULL. I rode for a little while, came back and it was 3/4 full. Please explain to me why it keeps sucking oil!!! Im using the 20W-50 Synthetic (gold Bottle) oil. I had to open up a 3rd quart i purchased to keep it saying full...I dont understand this one bit...

if your loosing oil ( not staying at the full level )..then you have a oil leak somewhere ?..or your burning oil from the engine ...if you say it don't smoke when you run it..then you got a leak somewhere.

In my garage, I have put a piece of clean cardboard and let it sit after each ride and overnight, when i return, there are no oil drips. i dont get it.....

 

[shadetree]

What is the cheapest and easiest way to make a 400ex run cooler? I dont want any ordinary answer like, "Get the UM Racing Oil Tank". I also have a problem with keeping my oil tank full of oil. My 400ex doesn't burn any oil either, i know that because it does not smoke. When I changed the oil, I drained both the external tank and the crankcase. I filled the external with a about a quart or so, started it, let it run for 30 secs, and shut off, I then put more oil in and checked the dipstick, started it again, let it run for 30 secs, checked it again, and maybe put another 100ml or so. I then started it and repeated the process, and it finally said FULL. I rode for a little while, came back and it was 3/4 full. Please explain to me why it keeps sucking oil!!! Im using the 20W-50 Synthetic (gold Bottle) oil. I had to open up a 3rd quart i purchased to keep it saying full...I dont understand this one bit...

if your loosing oil ( not staying at the full level )..then you have a oil leak somewhere ?..or your burning oil from the engine ...if you say it don't smoke when you run it..then you got a leak somewhere.

In my garage, I have put a piece of clean cardboard and let it sit after each ride and overnight, when i return, there are no oil drips. i dont get it.....

then your burning oil from the engine..only thing i can think of.

 

[400exrider15]

Only time is smokes is on a cold start when you rev it up, when it idles, no smoke is to be found. when it starts up, it does not tick, but when it runs for about 30 seconds or so, it will tick, but when you rev it, you cant hear any ticking? dont know if this has anything to do with the oil...Im used to 2 strokes, I've rebuilt them so many time that its the only engine im used to....

 

[shadetree]

Only time is smokes is on a cold start when you rev it up, when it idles, no smoke is to be found. when it starts up, it does not tick, but when it runs for about 30 seconds or so, it will tick, but when you rev it, you cant hear any ticking? dont know if this has anything to do with the oil...Im used to 2 strokes, I've rebuilt them so many time that its the only engine im used to....

the ticking means your valves need adjusting, as for the smoking when you first crank it up, this tells me your valve steem seals are bad..and they are leaking oil down on to your piston....try putting new valve guide seals in it..this should stop your smoking when you first start it up.

 

[400exrider15]

Only time is smokes is on a cold start when you rev it up, when it idles, no smoke is to be found. when it starts up, it does not tick, but when it runs for about 30 seconds or so, it will tick, but when you rev it, you cant hear any ticking? dont know if this has anything to do with the oil...Im used to 2 strokes, I've rebuilt them so many time that its the only engine im used to....

the ticking means your valves need adjusting, as for the smoking when you first crank it up, this tells me your valve steem seals are bad..and they are leaking oil down on to your piston....try putting new valve guide seals in it..this should stop your smoking when you first start it up.

Is this a hard task to complete? I know how to take the head off, but I dont know how to change a timing chain. I also know how to adjust valves too. Do you know the proper valve adjustments for an 04 400ex?

 

[shadetree]

Only time is smokes is on a cold start when you rev it up, when it idles, no smoke is to be found. when it starts up, it does not tick, but when it runs for about 30 seconds or so, it will tick, but when you rev it, you cant hear any ticking? dont know if this has anything to do with the oil...Im used to 2 strokes, I've rebuilt them so many time that its the only engine im used to....

the ticking means your valves need adjusting, as for the smoking when you first crank it up, this tells me your valve steem seals are bad..and they are leaking oil down on to your piston....try putting new valve guide seals in it..this should stop your smoking when you first start it up.

Is this a hard task to complete? I know how to take the head off, but I dont know how to change a timing chain. I also know how to adjust valves too. Do you know the proper valve adjustments for an 04 400ex?

the timming chain has nothing to do with your valve steem guide seals..to change these..you need to pull the head..remove the valve springs and valves.in order to do this..you need a valve spring compressor to remove them from the head..after you remove the valves and springs..just pull the old valve guide seals off the valve guide..push the new ones on..make sure you put some grease on the end of the valves as you push them back up through the seals ( this keeps them from tearing )..put your valves back in. and your good to go. as for the valves being set/adjusted..no..i never use any fealer gauges to do this.i always just go by '' feal ''..after 14 yrs..i pretty much know how to set the valves..if you use a fealer gauge..and you know the right setting..loosen the lock nut ( 10mm )..put the fealer gauge under the valve screw.tighten it down to where you barely fill any drag on it..then tighten the lock nut on the valve...make sure your piston is on TDC.. and on a cold engine when you do this.

 

[Helmut]

Valve clearance is 0.004 in for the intake and 0.005 in for the exhaust valve.

 

[tomgodd]

intake: 0.10mm (0.004in)
exhaust: 0.12mm (0.005in)

 

[400exrider15]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

 

[shadetree]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

 

[400exrider15]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

Should I buy a new valve you think? I can probably afford them....I hear that Titanium valves create less heat???

 

[shadetree]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

Should I buy a new valve you think? I can probably afford them....I hear that Titanium valves create less heat???

if your valves aren't bent..and not leaking..then no..you dont need new valves..you can test this...by taking the head..turning it upside down..pour alittle gas down into where the valves and spark plug are..if your valves are good..and not leaking..you won't see any gas comming from the other side. if you do see gas..then your valves are bent.

 

[Helmut]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

If you have a drill press you can use that to compress the valve springs to remove the cotters. Find an old socket about the same diameter as the top of the springs and cut about a 3/4 inch notch out of each side of the socket, directly opposite of each other. Now put a bolt up through the square hole in the socket and put a washer and nut on it and tighten it. Now just chuck the bolt and socket up in your drill press. Set the cylinder head on the table and angle the table so the valves are straight up and down, in line with the socket. Now, just use the arm to lower the socket on to the top of the spring and compress it. Hold it there why you remove or install the cotters.

Actually, it's easier to remove the cotters with a socket and hammer. Just set the socket on the top of the valve spring and give the socket a quick rap with the hammer and the cotters will come off. To reinstall the cotters, use the drill press. I find it's easier to use the drill press than it is to use an actual valve spring compressor tool.

 

[400exrider15]

I now know why my 400ex is burning oil! Little disapointing but i think i may be able to do this task, as long as its cheap.

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

If you have a drill press you can use that to compress the valve springs to remove the cotters. Find an old socket about the same diameter as the top of the springs and cut about a 3/4 inch notch out of each side of the socket, directly opposite of each other. Now put a bolt up through the square hole in the socket and put a washer and nut on it and tighten it. Now just chuck the bolt and socket up in your drill press. Set the cylinder head on the table and angle the table so the valves are straight up and down, in line with the socket. Now, just use the arm to lower the socket on to the top of the spring and compress it. Hold it there why you remove or install the cotters.

Actually, it's easier to remove the cotters with a socket and hammer. Just set the socket on the top of the valve spring and give the socket a quick rap with the hammer and the cotters will come off. To reinstall the cotters, use the drill press. I find it's easier to use the drill press than it is to use an actual valve spring compressor tool.

Thank you so much for the help. Is there anything I could screw besides the timing? Do i have to take the whole cylinder off to take off the head or just the timing chain??? or what else??

 

[Helmut]

Thank you so much for the help. Is there anything I could screw besides the timing? Do i have to take the whole cylinder off to take off the head or just the timing chain??? or what else??

To take the head off, you just have to remove the valve cover and the cam and then unbolt the head. You don't have to take the timing chain all the way out. You just have to remove it from the cam gear. You will have to retime the cam when you put it back together.

 

[shadetree]

if it's just your valve guide seals..yeah..thats cheap to fix.other than the valve spring compressor which you will need to remove the valves..nothing to it.

If you have a drill press you can use that to compress the valve springs to remove the cotters. Find an old socket about the same diameter as the top of the springs and cut about a 3/4 inch notch out of each side of the socket, directly opposite of each other. Now put a bolt up through the square hole in the socket and put a washer and nut on it and tighten it. Now just chuck the bolt and socket up in your drill press. Set the cylinder head on the table and angle the table so the valves are straight up and down, in line with the socket. Now, just use the arm to lower the socket on to the top of the spring and compress it. Hold it there why you remove or install the cotters.

Actually, it's easier to remove the cotters with a socket and hammer. Just set the socket on the top of the valve spring and give the socket a quick rap with the hammer and the cotters will come off. To reinstall the cotters, use the drill press. I find it's easier to use the drill press than it is to use an actual valve spring compressor tool.

Thank you so much for the help. Is there anything I could screw besides the timing? Do i have to take the whole cylinder off to take off the head or just the timing chain??? or what else??

just remove the rocker box..then take the slack adjuster out..this will give you enough room to remove the cam from the timming chain..tie a piece of wire..or string to your timming chain..then tie it to the frame or handle bars ( this keeps your timming chain from droping down into your lower engine..then just put your new valve guide seals in like me an helmut said.

 

[400exrider15]

If you have a drill press you can use that to compress the valve springs to remove the cotters. Find an old socket about the same diameter as the top of the springs and cut about a 3/4 inch notch out of each side of the socket, directly opposite of each other. Now put a bolt up through the square hole in the socket and put a washer and nut on it and tighten it. Now just chuck the bolt and socket up in your drill press. Set the cylinder head on the table and angle the table so the valves are straight up and down, in line with the socket. Now, just use the arm to lower the socket on to the top of the spring and compress it. Hold it there why you remove or install the cotters.

Actually, it's easier to remove the cotters with a socket and hammer. Just set the socket on the top of the valve spring and give the socket a quick rap with the hammer and the cotters will come off. To reinstall the cotters, use the drill press. I find it's easier to use the drill press than it is to use an actual valve spring compressor tool.

Thank you so much for the help. Is there anything I could screw besides the timing? Do i have to take the whole cylinder off to take off the head or just the timing chain??? or what else??

just remove the rocker box..then take the slack adjuster out..this will give you enough room to remove the cam from the timming chain..tie a piece of wire..or string to your timming chain..then tie it to the frame or handle bars ( this keeps your timming chain from droping down into your lower engine..then just put your new valve guide seals in like me an helmut said.

How do you re-time the cam?

 

[Helmut]

How do you re-time the cam?

First, start by putting the piston on TDC. You can do this by removing the timing hole cap (small round cap) from the left side of the engine. Look through the hole at the flywheel and turn the engine until the "T" mark on the flywheel lines up with the notch in the side of the timing hole. This will be TDC. Now, you're ready to install the cam. There will be two lines on the cam gear directly opposite from one another. You will line these marks up level with the top of the head. Now, make sure the lobes on the cam are facing down. Put the chain on the cam gear. You will probably have to put the chain on the cam gear first and then slide the cam in next to the cam gear and then bolt it on. Just make sure the lobes on the cam are facing down, this is very important. Now, put your timing chain tensioner back in and recheck the timing marks on the cam gear and on the flywheel.

It's a good idea to use blue locktite on the cam gear bolts to keep them from backing out.