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Discussion Starter #1
I'm picking up a 350d rear end for my 300 build, though I'll probably wait until early next year to drop it in since I won't be riding much then and it will give me time to fully go through it and replace bearings and seals, etc

I get the necessary fabrication work needed to install it into a 300 Fourtrax, but one thing I've never seen addressed is which hubs are used. Do you use the 350 hubs or can the 300 hubs be used?

Thanks in advance.


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350 Hubs. 300 hubs won't fit.
 

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you have to use the 350D hubs , totally different , the 350D has a sealing ring made onto them that the 300 doesn't , also the spline size is bigger on the 300 ----- depending on the year of your 300 , you may have to get a foot brake cable about and inch longer , that has happened to me once , don't remember the exact combination of model year and rear end , also you may or may not have to use wheel spacers to clear the muffler , that depends on your rim offset and width of tires you use , the only other thing I can think of is the shock mount has to be welded in the middle , unless you can come up with some dual shocks mod , which might be nice
 

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Thank you both. That is what I assumed but wanted to be sure.

I have a line on a rear diff, axle, and axle tubes but no hubs. Guess I need to keep scrounging but seeing as I'm in no rush, I can use patience and find the right parts.

Thanks again guys. You've been very helpful.


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two 250/350 hubs in good condition are going to cost you and getting harder to find , the right and left are different making it harder , if I were you , I would still try and score the rest of the axle cheap , well worth offering a $100 , the differential is a good score if it is in usable shape , you might find a rear end with a blown diff and the rest of it still there in good shape , take two to make one --------
 

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two 250/350 hubs in good condition are going to cost you and getting harder to find , the right and left are different making it harder , if I were you , I would still try and score the rest of the axle cheap , well worth offering a $100 , the differential is a good score if it is in usable shape , you might find a rear end with a blown diff and the rest of it still there in good shape , take two to make one --------


Wow, didn't realize the left/right hubs were different.

For the full package I have lined up, which would be full rear end, axle, and buying some used hubs, if be in it for a bit over $300. Seems steep but I don't know for sure.


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The 350 rear end swap is the way to go. I did it with mine.

If/when you find hubs just be sure the splines on the insides are good and square. all too often you will find ebay sellers will not disclose that information and your left with a useless hub. In our case with the swapped rear ends we need new old stock or good used condition hubs because they are getting so hard to find.

The 350 rear end is better built in every way over the 300. you wont miss the old one. Be sure when you do the swap you properly set your shock location or you will either gain or lose seat height.

also, not much is mentioned about brake cable setup. you will find you will have to modify your brake cable perch to get functional brakes. not a big deal, but to get your rear brakes to work, its not a simple plug and play, it will take a little bit of re-engineering.
 

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The 350 rear end swap is the way to go. I did it with mine.

If/when you find hubs just be sure the splines on the insides are good and square. all too often you will find ebay sellers will not disclose that information and your left with a useless hub. In our case with the swapped rear ends we need new old stock or good used condition hubs because they are getting so hard to find.

The 350 rear end is better built in every way over the 300. you wont miss the old one. Be sure when you do the swap you properly set your shock location or you will either gain or lose seat height.

also, not much is mentioned about brake cable setup. you will find you will have to modify your brake cable perch to get functional brakes. not a big deal, but to get your rear brakes to work, its not a simple plug and play, it will take a little bit of re-engineering.


Thanks for the info Manny. I'll probably fab up some hydraulic rear brakes for this so the cables don't concern me much, but sill good to know. Part of the allure of the 350d rear is that the brake off to the side and not a major obstacle dragging in the center of the rear end.


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Yes it does sit nice inside the rim. Be sure to rebuild the bearings and seals in the differential before assembly, at least that's what I did. I would rather spend $40 in bearings/seals rather then pull it all out again!
 

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Yes it does sit nice inside the rim. Be sure to rebuild the bearings and seals in the differential before assembly, at least that's what I did. I would rather spend $40 in bearings/seals rather then pull it all out again!


Yes sir, that's the plan. I'll have the bike finished up in the next two weeks and won't be installing the 350 rear until January. That will give me plenty of time to get all the parts together and replace all bearing and seals, and hopefully fabricate the hydraulic rear disc setup.


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I was excited when they first advertised the rear disc conversion , before they hit the market they were saying as long as your brake drum is at the wheel it would work , on the 250/350 rear ends the brake drum is at the wheel , but the axle spline is different than the rest of the models , that is going to be your biggest problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was excited when they first advertised the rear disc conversion , before they hit the market they were saying as long as your brake drum is at the wheel it would work , on the 250/350 rear ends the brake drum is at the wheel , but the axle spline is different than the rest of the models , that is going to be your biggest problem


Yeah I'm not sure if I should start with the kit and try to fit a different pillow block/bearing for the rotor and make a new caliper bracket, or just build it from scratch. Wilwood has a good selection of calipers so probably less expensive to build from scratch and still get a quality setup.


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...once I started using the 250 rear ends , my rear brake problem have been over , I get longer time on my rear brakes than I do with the front disc pads , the really don't last long and I don't use my brakes very much , I think they wear out from all the mud going thru them
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've wondered about the mud and dirt constantly cycling as the rotor turns through the pads. Maybe the sealed rear drum is the way to go then. I dunno but I'll figure it out before the rear end goes on the bike.
 

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one thing that is good about the front disc , I can change both side front pads in an hour or so and it cost $25 , but there is so little brake material on the pads to start is why they don't last long -----on the rear , like I said , once you use the 250 style brake drum where the hub goes into the seal , you won't have nearly as much problems with water getting in as the 300's brakes -------
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, time for an update and a few more questions, I suppose.

I got the 350d rear end rebuilt with all new bearings (except the pinion bearing inside the diff, which didn't need to be replaced...can I get an Amen?). Install went really great and smooth as I could ask for.

My factory hand brake cable for the rear is seized up so I'll have to order a new one. Since the 350d rear brake panel is very different than the 300, I haven't quite figured out how to make the hand cable work as of yet. What are you guys doing in this swap to get the hand brake to work? I've got the foot brake hooked up and it works great. I need to hand brake to work b/c I need a parking brake for when I load it in my truck (I've had it almost roll back off the ramps when I was parked on a hill...talk about butt pucker), and for when we stop in the woods to take a break and I'm parked on a slight hill or whatever.

I've thought about ordering a hand brake cable for a 350d to see if it could work. Looks like the front of the cable is different the 300 where it connects to the brake lever, but maybe it could be modified to work. I dunno.

FYI, I decided to stick with the factory drum setup for now. Though if I can get my hands on a cheap used drum and panel, I may get to work on fabbing up a disc conversion. Some chopping, some lathe work, and some welding may yield some nice results. Who knows?
 
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Manny
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