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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I rebuilt my bosses 2002 350 Rancher FM(manual shift) that he ran out of oil. Installed a new jug kit and oil pump and fired it up today. Only ran it a few minutes and then tried to shift and it jumps a little when it shifts like its going into gear but doesn't move the slightest when throttle is applied. I've manipulated the clutch adjustment screw a few times to no avail. The oil is Valvoline ATV with wet clutch protection.

I am currently cleaning my work bench and picking up the tools if for no other reason but to stall... I cant believe I gotta pull this motor again! I veiwed these forums a few dozen times during the rebuild and look forward to any input you may have!
 

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Sounds like something in the centrifugal clutch is not right. Do you have the FSM for it? The parts fiche can be helpful if you are looking for something missing or whatever.

Welcome to the forums!
 

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From section 9 in the FSM:



Is the one-way roller clutch (sprag) in upside down? I haven't read up on it yet... but usually there is a mark on the sprag that has to be facing out when you install it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That was removed in one piece and not disassembled. I should add that I Had one heck of a time mating the front crankcase cover, and had to draw it together with the bolts... I will be pulling the engine this morning.
 

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I would guess that #'s 9and 10 of this print are not positioned properly


Honda ATV Parts 2002 TRX350FM 2A FRONT CRANKCASE COVER (TRX350TM-FM) Diagram
fish, I can't recall right off the top of my brain dead self ?..lol, but aren't those parts splined to only fit on the shaft only one way ?. pretty sure the arm is splined, as it has a cut-out on the shaft it slides on, the part that goes in the change clutch basket is not splined, it just rest on the wheel from the arm. again, kinda brain dead right now, memory is going..lol.
 

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the change lever is splined with a index mark on the case and the lever
yes, old styles have this, and i'm sure newer ones do too?, ( have not looked lately ..lol ) but you must remember, this is a forward engine, not like the old sideways engines back in the day. my point I was making: the arm itself should have an index slot in the shaft, so it only mounts at a certain angle on the shaft ?, I just don't remember !..lol.
 

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sounds to me like you've got your change clutch not set up properly or your pressure plate isn't tight. either way pull it and the culprit will more then likely show itself quickly.
 

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the change lever is splined with a index mark on the case and the lever
yes, old styles have this, and i'm sure newer ones do too?, ( have not looked lately ..lol ) but you must remember, this is a forward engine, not like the old sideways engines back in the day. my point I was making: the arm itself should have an index slot in the shaft, so it only mounts at a certain angle on the shaft ?, I just don't remember !..lol.[/QUOTE

where I am thinking is he said he had to pull the case together with bolts , thinking the clutch lift arm did not align properly and it isn't working ----
 

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the change lever is splined with a index mark on the case and the lever
yes, old styles have this, and i'm sure newer ones do too?, ( have not looked lately ..lol ) but you must remember, this is a forward engine, not like the old sideways engines back in the day. my point I was making: the arm itself should have an index slot in the shaft, so it only mounts at a certain angle on the shaft ?, I just don't remember !..lol.[/QUOTE

where I am thinking is he said he had to pull the case together with bolts , thinking the clutch lift arm did not align properly and it isn't working ----
it's posb ?, but in my past engine builds, I've ran across this same problem, and what I've learned is, the bearing that rides in the cover ?, it sometimes does not want to go back on the end of the crank where it rides for the centrifugal clutch ?, sometimes they don't get lined up straight ?, and are hard to get back on the crank shaft right there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
its on the bench, removed the cover and the small bearing that is pressed into the cover came out and is on the end of the crank...it appears flush with end of crank so i don't see a problem there... and had assumed this was made mating the crankcase cover so difficult...the lift arm appears to be properly aligned and lies in the notch of the clutch cam plate. If I turn the output shaft in neutral it spins freely, if I shift it into first it does not spin. I noticed that the clutch adjusting screw plate on the inside of the cover is NOT aligned with the pin that protrudes from the cover... I did do an adjustment after the machine was running and wouldn't move. I am near certain that it was on the pin upon assembly.... would this make the clutch slip completely?
 

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its on the bench, removed the cover and the small bearing that is pressed into the cover came out and is on the end of the crank...it appears flush with end of crank so i don't see a problem there... and had assumed this was made mating the crankcase cover so difficult...the lift arm appears to be properly aligned and lies in the notch of the clutch cam plate. If I turn the output shaft in neutral it spins freely, if I shift it into first it does not spin. I noticed that the clutch adjusting screw plate on the inside of the cover is NOT aligned with the pin that protrudes from the cover... I did do an adjustment after the machine was running and wouldn't move. I am near certain that it was on the pin upon assembly.... would this make the clutch slip completely?
yes !. the pin, and those parts must be matted on right !.
 

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and I've had that bearing stay on the crank many times, no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im a bit skeptical that this adjustment plate was off the pin when I assembled it. That adjuster likely had never been touched prior to this and the clutch was working fine prior to piston seizure. I made a few attempts to adjust it and loosened the center screw to a point the plate cleared the pin.

I have aligned it properly but hesitate to claim victory and re-assemble as it was so much work to remove the engine for a second time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Think I found the problem! My clutch plates were rattling around loose as the clutch hub was not seated properly...info i gleamed from this video:


and on another note I cant beleive i yanked the motor again when i could have pulled that cover in the frame!...lol

ill update once its assembled
 

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Think I found the problem! My clutch plates were rattling around loose as the clutch hub was not seated properly...info i gleamed from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s942WoxRxiM

and on another note I cant beleive i yanked the motor again when i could have pulled that cover in the frame!...lol

ill update once its assembled
lol, I wassssssssss gonna say..'' hey..ya don't have to pull the motor..just to fix your clutch '' ?..but too late..done been mooned !..lmfao. for future reference ?..ya don't have to pull the motor when working on the front cover area..lol.
 

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@Manny,

sounds to me like you've got your change clutch not set up properly or your pressure plate isn't tight. either way pull it and the culprit will more then likely show itself quickly.
Great call!
 
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