[YellowRancher]

Does anyone know where the Support crankshaft bearing is at? Iv been told if the engine is in as it is normaly there is a kinda round cover on the front side of the motor and iv been told that is where it is. But i would rather have confirmation by people who know more about them then i do.

 

[retro]

What year and model 350 Rancher are you working with? What do you need to know (and why) about the crankshaft main bearings? Need more info to get on the right page with ya...
Thanks,

 

[retro]

See page 12-22 of the FSM if you are working on what my best guess is... that you're working on.

 

[YellowRancher]

The rancher is an 2004 Footshift and another question. How do i get the front driveshaft peice off so i can change my one way clutch bearing. Turns out when ever i bought this 4 wheeler for $1500 like new no scratches at all or mud stains but me nor my dad knew that it had been sunk before but it was smoking just a tad when you would get on it. So this is the 2nd rebuild so im putting all new bearings that i can get to easily without splitting my cases and some of the seals that are important new so i hopefully wont have anymore problems out of it in the future or at least till i sell it. Thanks in advance for all the answers.

 

[YellowRancher]

I was told that the support bearing is in that round part of the case but not 100% on it. Cant get the case off because i dont know how to get the driveshaft off

 

[YellowRancher]

Ohh and the reason i need to repalce it is when it did run but had to redo the timing chain and tenstion and guids. You could hear in the front like a bearing that sounded like it was ticking/clinging in the front its either my one wat clucth bearing which is like already done for or that support bearing. Sorry for so many posts i keep reading you comment RETO and keep adding my input

 

[shadetree]

ok, for one, lets start from scratch. if t's been sunk ?, you REALLY need to pull the motor, split it, and flush/clean the motor out !. why ?..simple..you already rebuilt it once, and that failed !, want it to fail again ?, then do as I say, pull the motor, split the cases, flush/clean the inside out very good !. or your going to be right back to where you are right now in maybe 10 miles ?, maybe 1 mile ?. there is grit inside that motor that is eating your bearings up !!. as for the front drive shaft ?, if you will get the service manual, which you really should have done to begin with !, you would see it tells you to unbolt the front differential ( if this is 4x4 ?, cuz ya DID NOT SAY ?? ) pull it far forward as you can, then pull the drive shaft copular off either the front pinion gear ?, or the front output drive shaft spline ?, then you can get the front cover off, but in this case, you should really be working on just pulling the motor, and doing what ive been saying ^^^, the motor has been sunk, don't waste anymore time or cash !!, do it right, or don't do it at all. your time, your cash, my know-how !, your call .

 

[shadetree]

and if you do decide to do it right, and pull the motor ?, this would be a good time to replace all oil seals, as well as a new cam chain, seeing how you will have the motor out, and apart . I've been down this road sooooooooooo many times with motors, it takes time, a little cash ?, BUT IT'S WORTH IT IN THE LONG RUN !.

 

[shadetree]

I was told that the support bearing is in that round part of the case but not 100% on it. Cant get the case off because i dont know how to get the driveshaft off

that drive shaft copular is just stuck on the output shaft bro . just pull it off. it may take some '' help '' with a drift punch, or screw driver on the flange ?, but all that is holding it on...is nothing !. its just pushed on the output shaft, and has a o-ring under the motor side lip, nothing to it .

 

[shadetree]

just for chit and giggles , is this the same trx350 rancher you worked on awhile back for a top end job ?, I remember this trx350 !. and it was sunk so you say !?!, and i'm pretty sure I warned you, as well as a few others, BACK THEN !, to split the motor, and flush/clean it out, or am I wrong here ?. and now your right back where we told you, you would be..correct ?..lol. I won't say anything else, as I think I've covered it enough .

 

[YellowRancher]

When i got the 4 wheeler we didnt now at the time it had been sunk but it smoked a little so yeah i had been sunked but not as bad as it could have been. I havent had any problems out of it after we rebuilt it the first time until this. Which it didnt need a topend i thought it did so i put a new topend in it. Then come to find out it was the head that the exhaust valve seat was ruinded and so i went out and got another head because i didnt know anyone around here who could redo the head for me. I run it for 20 mins after all that done to it then it turns out that it had jumped time. So put all know chain tentioner and guides. But even though it had been sunk i havent had a bad problem besides this one at all with the 4 wheeler. So this time im replacing everything it needs but i flushed the motor alot with diesel and got alot of clutchdust and stuff out. Im going by since nothing bad has happened ima just replace my crankbearings and clutchbearing and be done with it. Yeah shadetree i i understand where you are coming from by splitting tbe cases and what not. But i cant do much as im only 15 and dont really have alot of help or anyone really mechanical besides my dad who works alot so i took everything off rear swingarm, everything and have the motor out just need a little advice about what to do. I like your input it helps me alot.

 

[shadetree]

well bro, in order to replace the crank bearings ?, YOU HAVE TO SPLIT THE CASES ANYWAY !..LOL. the main crank bearings are sitting inside the case halves, soooo..in order to replace them ?, then yes, the engine has to be split. don't worry about you only being 15 ?, YOU GOT US HERE TO GUIDE YOU IF YOU RUN INTO PROBLEMS !. assuming you do have a service manual ?, AND YOU REALLY SHOULD GET ONE !, it's all pretty easy. you don't need any special tools to do this !!, your average tools ( metric sockets,wrenches ) is all you need for the most part. an air impact or electric from harbor freight if your a cheap guy ?..lmao, works just as good. my saying is, and always has been, if your gonna waste the time to build it ?, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME !. i'm sorry If I am sounding like an azz towards you ?, i'm really not ! . i'm just giving you hard facts !!. why ? BECAUSE I'VE BEEN WHERE YOU ARE !!, it's not easy, I agree, but it sure is nice to pat yourself on the back, and say to yourself..DANG WHAT A GOOD JOB I DID !.

 

[YellowRancher]

Yeah i understand were you coming from. I have all the tools to do the job but i would have to buy a flywheel puller because i put the flywheel back on after i put the timing chain and tentioner in. But i figured might as well go ahead and replace the things that i know wouldnt hurt to replace.

 

[shadetree]

Yeah i understand were you coming from. I have all the tools to do the job but i would have to buy a flywheel puller because i put the flywheel back on after i put the timing chain and tentioner in. But i figured might as well go ahead and replace the things that i know wouldnt hurt to replace.

before I broke down and bought a flywheel puller tool, I just checked the thread pitch, and went to a local bolt place, like lowes, homedepot, and found a large enough bolt to screw into the flywheel to pop it off, same thing Honda dealerships use, cept thiers is a fancy bolt with numbers stamped on them !..lol. and before I did this ?, I also found out, that the axle end threads from an old model trx350 fourtrax ( '86-'89 ) could be screwed in the flywheels, and then double nut the other end, use an air impact to hit it with, pop !, done deal.

 

[shadetree]

the threads are fine thread, and corse thread on some parts, and always metric !.