[ChadM1Garand]

I have a 2002 350 FE 4x4, electric shift. It shifts really easy into reverse, but it takes about 4 tries to get it into 1st gear. When you put it in reverse, the machine lunges and creeps HARD even at idle. I put brand new brakes all around and it would not totally stop it with all the brakes on full.

So I tried to adjust the clutch to back it off, but the adjustment bolt was frozen. So I took the front cover off and am working to get the adjustment bolt loose, and looked around. The clutch plates look really good, but there is no space between the plates. I tried to move the arm with the roller on it, and it only moves maybe an inch left and right, and feels tight. There is no slack in the plates that I can tell. I read the Clymer manual and watched the only youtube video that showed anything.

My question is, what movement takes the pressure off the clutch plates and do they get space between the plates when you back it off? Can I push the center of the clutch pack?

 

[XplicitRacing6]

Please don't make two threads for the same question, they won't get answered any faster. Thanks

 

[Carolynskii]

I don't see a duplicate post lol but two things I know of would cause it to engage like that. One is the idle is way too high and the other is adjusting the clutch.

On electric shift it won't change the gear if the idle it too high so I would consider and adjust that first.

But to answer your question on the clutch pack it sounds fine. The "arm with the roller" is the gear shift arm and should be tight like that. If you push it kinda hard to the right it changes the gears. You may need to rock the bike or rear wheel to complete the change of a gear. The clutch plates are not loose and wouldn't cause your problem.
Have you done an oil change lately?

 

[ChadM1Garand]

Thanks for your response - I had recently bought this 350 and the old oil was *really* dirty. So I changed the oil/filter and let it run about 20 minutes and will now put new oil and filter in again after I get it back together. The clutch plates look really good to the eye, but the general condition of this machine was poor and I didn't know if the plates were stuck together or even how to disengage the clutch to see. There is surprisingly very little out there on these clutches on Youtube. One guy had a good video but it was a foot shift model.

The plan is to free up the adjustment bolt and try to get the clutch "backed off".

Idle was as low as I could get it without stalling, but in gear the bike still lunged and had a LOT of pulling power even at such low RPM. This is new to me, because I had a different Rancher in years past that was in good shape and behaved a lot better. It was a newer 420.

 

[retro]

I answered in your other thread (please, post one thread only per issue. Thanks.) but in this one you have continued to offer more details. Now it sounds like the centrifugal clutch is dragging while idling in gear...?

If so, look for a broken or stretched clutch weight spring in the centrifugal clutch. There should be three weights each having a spring. Also verify that the centrifugal clutch drum is not binding up on the crankshaft due to a bad bushing inside the primary gear at the back of the drum. And check the one-way clutch in the drum while you are in there. The service manual covers all those parts well and with lots of photos.

 

[Carolynskii]

Just a hunch but if you or someone has already been inside this bike and then it started acting this way it would be a safe guess that the one way bearing has been put in backwards.
When the centrifical clutch is off in your hand you should be able to turn it to the left but not to the right. On the bearing it says "outside" and you should see those words when you put it in.
Also make sure the cover is put back on correctly with everything lined up as it should. There's a spring loaded Y on the front cover related to the adjuster that needs to be lined up. If the clutches don't smell burnt theyvare probably ok unless you feel them slip as you ride. Your problem seems to relate to the power take off "PTO" which is the centrifugal clutch. (the clutch on the passenger side of the bike not the one with clutch plates on the driver side).
Remove the centrifugal and check that one way bearing on the back of it and make sure it isn't backwards.

If you found a video on the clutches for a manual shift it's exactly the same as electric Shift except the shiftshaft is different but the clutches are the same.

The problem with it not always going into first gear I would pull the shift motor off and that the little cover off the front cover and inspect that area and gears for debris but clean all that sticky grease off and put regular grease there for easier shifting.

Here's a video on clutches for a 420 but they are very similar to a 350. Don't disassemble the centrifugal. Just take it off and and see if it turns to the left and NOT the right. If it turns opposite then Just take that bearing off the back and flip it. If it turns correctly then stick to the clutch adjuster plan but make sure that Y inside the cover is lined up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s942WoxRxiM&app=desktop

 

[Carolynskii]

Heres a video on a trx350 ES He shows where the one way bearing is about 4 minutes in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ggp7aG2exY&app=desktop

 

[Carolynskii]

Here's a terrible video lol of the electric shift motor set up. It's a 420 not a 350 but they are very similar. You don't have his problems but it gives you an idea of what that area looks like. Just take it part and clean the sticky grease and then put regular grease there. Inspect and clean bearing gears and splines. This will help the intermittent 1st gear shifting not the clutch problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InPQAtSgLTM&app=desktop

 

[ChadM1Garand]

Thanks for the responses. Centrifugal clutch seems ok, only turns left, not right. Going to check springs. Got the adjustment bolt loose so hopefully that will help. Then again it was bottomed out so I don't think that's it.

 

[MrFixit]

Got the adjustment bolt loose so hopefully that will help.

I have a 2002 350 FE 4x4 also, my adjustment bolt is frozen also. Did you have to remove the front crankcase cover to get the clutch adjusting bolt freed up? What part was frozen up, the threads of the clutch adjusting bolt in the front cover or was it internal? I was trying to determine if I am going to have to remove the front cover to get it to work or not. I appreciate your insite.

 

[Jeepwm69]

If the adjuster bolt is seized up removing the cover is usually required to free it up.

 

[MrFixit]

If the adjuster bolt is seized up removing the cover is usually required to free it up.

Do you know if that can be done in frame or does the motor need to be remove?
Thanks

 

[Jeepwm69]

You can do it in frame.

I stand the machine up on the rear wheels/rack, and then you're working at head level and the oil runs to the back of the motor so you don't have to deal with that mess. Just make sure you turn off the fuel petcock and plug the vent line.