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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 350 FE 4x4, electric shift. It shifts really easy into reverse, but it takes about 4 tries to get it into 1st gear. When you put it in reverse, the machine lunges and creeps HARD even at idle. I put brand new brakes all around and it would not totally stop it with all the brakes on full.

So I tried to adjust the clutch to back it off, but the adjustment bolt was frozen. So I took the front cover off and am working to get the adjustment bolt loose, and looked around. The clutch plates look really good, but there is no space between the plates. I tried to move the arm with the roller on it, and it only moves maybe an inch left and right, and feels tight. There is no slack in the plates that I can tell. I read the Clymer manual and watched the only youtube video that showed anything.

My question is, what movement takes the pressure off the clutch plates and do they get space between the plates when you back it off? Can I push the center of the clutch pack?
 

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This is a great question! The change clutch is released momentarily (only) during each shift. So those clutch discs must remain tight at all times except during the middle of a shifting operation. The clutch adjustment bolt you speak of determines the maximum allowed depth of clutch release (spring compression) that occurs from the release cam motion. Both manual shift and electric shift bikes work the same way.

If the adjustment bolt does not provide enough slack to allow the cam to release all tension from the pressure plate completely following a shift, the change clutch will generally begin to slip once you get in the throttle under load.

If the adjustment bolt provides too much slack for the cam, the change clutch will not be completely released during each shift, which results in engine torque continuing to be transferred through the transmission, making each shift difficult or impossible.

In your case there is too much slack being provided by the adjustment bolt. The change clutch is not releasing completely. Reinstall the front cover once you get the locknut and adjuster bolt freed up and adjust per the service manual recommendation. Then test the results and fine tune the adjustment if necessary.
 

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Chad, the hard creeping in reverse indicates a problem with your centrifugal clutch, not the change clutch. I would address the centrifugal clutch first and then see if you still have problems. If your idle speed is too high, that would cause the centrifugal clutch to be partially engaged and result in the creeping problem you describe. In that case, slow your idle speed down and re-evaluate. If your idle speed is normal and you still have the problem, I would then just go ahead and replace the centrifugal clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nothing overly conclusive on visual inspection. The centrifugal outer drum had some grooves in it but nothing terrible, and the weighted shoes had some minor pitting and small chunks missing here and there. They looked like they had some "varnished" oil, like they might have been hot at some point. So I ordered 4 new springs, the weighted shoes and drum. In other news, I see everyone talk about using Hondabond to seal the cover. Has anyone used "Right Stuff" by Permatex? In automotive gaskets I LOVE using it, but I understand this is different. When I ordered my new head and jug, they sent a couple tubes of a grey sealant labeled for import cases, but it was not Hondabond.
 
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