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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got the bottom mark dead on the T, stage 2 Web 236 cam. No matter which way i move the chain a tooth botg marks are almost exactly 1/4 inch above and below the head.. I'm about to set it so the front mark is the high one and send it. I'm sorry for asking such a stupid question. I just can't find anyone else witg this issue..
 

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Have you put the tensioner back in? It will push on the one side of the chain and move your timing marks on the cam a bit. And also if the chain isnt brandnew it will be slightly stretched. You most likely will never get it dead nuts. Just get it as close as you can with the tensioner in and tension on the chain.
 

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If you go one tooth forward with the cam and put the tensioner in how does it look? The way it is it looks like you left the slack on the chain to the front. You want the slack left in the back so the tensioner can take it up.

One other thing. Some cam sprockets have 3 lines yours may only have two. But just to be 100% sure were good here. Your cam lobes are facing down correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's absolutely zer0 slop on the chain its brand new. Doesnt move at all when i push the tensioner. If I move it a tooth the other way the back lines higher than the frint one is now... And yes ive got 3 lines on my gear, one is up and the lobes are down.
As chain stretches.. It'll roll the cam back even further as the front stretches.. Should I clock it forward 1 tooth and just take the slack out often?
 

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Well even with a brand new chain there should be slack. I have never installed a timing chain that was tight on both sides. And ive installed countless timing chains. Something isnt right about that at all. Every chain i have installed has lined the marks up perfect when the tensioner is in. Maybe you got a chain with one less link then its supposed to have? Not sure here but i would be worried if its tight on both sides with zero slack to be taken by the tensioner that it will be to tight and stretch really fast or even possibly break. My .02
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By zero slop I meant stretch/slop. Theres like 1/4 inch of play on the middle of the back tensioner. You can push as hard as you want on the tensioner side, doesmt so anything to the timing marj. Its a wiseco chain.. Its identical to my 2 old 300ex chains. I already counted links a few times. But that wouldnt matter anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
More input people? I'm getting the last piece of the puzzle in a few hours and slappin it in the wheelet as the post above this posts pictures show.. Id prefer to not have to take the clutch cover back off later....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heres the difference 1 tooth makes when the T is dead on the arrow on the bottom end.. Random 8mm bolt for size reference... Which way shoukd this go???? Pic 1 or 2?? Pic#1 would correct itsself as the chain stetches and I remove slack. whereas #2 would get worse overtime. But #2 is slightly closer to level with the head marks and the top notch being more vertical to the crank. ..... ???
 

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I know they are usually off just a tad. I’d say first pic, however it should be straight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This summabich pulls so hard my bars got bent! I went with the timing mark high on the intake side. Popped off on the first try and idled mint! Has a fluttery burble to it once holding the throttle level but its very responsive. I only had the 122 stock jet cuz I'm a dumbass but thankfully remembered before I rode it. so I'm taking it easy on break in runnin the screw at 2 turns out.. Moose stage 2 dynojet kit will be here in 5 days
 

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Sounds like you need to buy higher quality handlebars lol. Shoot my 330 with a web cam and a 400ex carb wouldnt have even pulled hard enough to bend bars. Heck i got walked by a stock 400ex with that quad. Which is why i sold it and never looked back. I would suggest dropping the needle clip one slot. Give it alittle more fuel in the mid. Also i would up the pilot jet a few sizes from stock if your in a cold climate it will help with cold starts.
 
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