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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 Honda 300 4x4 with an 88 motor swapped in it. The previous owner had put the front driveshaft from the 96 in and it was slipping splines cause it was too short, so I got an older model long one and I can't get it to go in with my front diff if my life depended on it. It looks the correct length now I just can't seem to squeeze the diff in with it. Is there a secret to this I'm missing.
 

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The shorter shaft is the correct one, nothing changed on the diff or engine end between 88-92 and 93-00 machines, it was the frame that changed. If the shorter shaft was slipping then maybe the spring in it was missing or something?


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yeap , I wasn't even thinking about what Mac said , it sounds like you have a stripped input spline on the front diff ----I have a 96 frame with a 92 engine in it , but I replaced the front shaft with a 4x2 kick out , once the anti-rotation strap of the 4x2 got hit jumping a stump or root and slide the assembly back and the front diff would click and go in and out , lucky I didn't strip the splines , but just a short time and I could see the worn spots on both the shaft splines and the diff splines ,so if yours was ridden for a while like that I would be the damage is severe , but the damage might be on the end and you might be able to clean the splines up with a file or Dremel and get by this problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I changed the driveshaft I put a better diff I had laying around in incase I had stripped some splines. But i noticed I don't have the spring in the shorter one that the longer one does. Would that cause it to jump the splines that bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bad the shorter shaft is the one with the spring still in it. So with me using the shorter driveshaft that fits and everything has good splines on it with a good diff what would y'all think could make it do that jumping in and out.
 

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Fish, mac...... Correct. Me if I'm mistaken , being he has a 96 with a 88 motor , could he add a 424 kick out , OR ...... Would there need to be some modding on the 424 input n out put shafts ? If not, Taco a 424 is a perfect add on for a 300 fwd..... Fish, jeep, n i run them on ours + a few others run them as well.
 

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I understand completely, lol they aren't cheep...... Sometimes you can luck up on a good buy, jeep did real good on his, but i can't recall how much, but it was a good buy IMO , if i was you, I'd add that to the ol to do list, when you get one, you'll love the option of ether two wheel drive OR four wheel drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a known good front diff and everything has all it's splines and looks good if I lay on the front and watch it while it rolls or turns it looks like the driveshaft is popping out of the diff making the diff buckle kind of
 

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Front diff isn’t shimmed to be a locker is it? Also, if you put straight 80/90 NONE hyoid gear oil in the front diff it will pop and click almost like an axle CV is bust.

Silly question, everything is bolted up tight isn’t it? The diff isn’t rocking back and forth under acceleration?

Edit: The simple answer is to fit the short one, measure the amount it’s short by and cut the long one (both ends) to the size you need.
 

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Not great I'm leaning towards that being the issue it doesn't look like it's warped any but it is almost rusted all the way through in the front


That’s about the only thing I can think of at this point man. Not really the best news but there isn’t much that can alter that distance between the t-case and the front diff.


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