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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i still have not managed to get the thing off.

cliff notes, i cant get the brake drum hub off.

took the nut and collar off, took the 4 bolts out of the back side of the brake drum hub, took the spring off on the inside, bleed out the brakes. got the adjuster wheels broke free (one for each side on the bottom) but they only turn one click before they hit the bracket for the brake shoes, i think that is what that bracket goes too, the shoes.

the adjuster confusses me, on the end of the adjuster its like a fork or so and it slides over the brackets for the brake shoes. a wide fork at that, almost like a flat head screw driver on the top side, and the bottom side of the bracket, sandwiching the bracket in the middle, running at a 90* angle to the bracket i turn it one click up, it hits the bracket, i turn it one click down, it hits the bracket. and when it hits, i cant turn it no more. its almost like its there to keep the brackets just lined up. i tried turning the whole adjuster itself up and down facing so its not even touching the bracket for the shoes, maybe then letting the shoes come in and not push against the drum, but it gets hung on the bracket and i cant turn it that far.

i can stick a screwdriver in and pull the shoes back some but its like its spring loaded (i took the spring out) and goes back into place.



what am i doing wrong, what else could it be?? that wheel had a little bit of wabble to it so im sure the the bearing or something is a little crocked. i took a hammer and pole and beat on the back side of the drum thinking it needed some force but no luck with that.



any suggestions??
 

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got the adjuster wheels broke free (one for each side on the bottom) but they only turn one click before they hit the bracket for the brake shoes, i think that is what that bracket goes too, the shoes.
There's a flat metal piece on the bottom of the adjuster that runs the full length of the adjuster. On each end it has a notch that fits in the notches on the adjuster wheels, so the adjusters can't turn on their on. This might be what's keeping the adjusters from turning. I usually just take a screwdriver and bend each side down away from the adjuster wheels, so they turn easier. I don't know if this is what you're talking about or not.
 

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If you can get to and remove the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder and adjuster on from the back of the backing plate, you might be able to remove the drum, brakes, wheel cylinder, and adjuster all at the same time. The only other problem is the two pins that go in through the back of the backing plate that goes through a hole in the middle of the brake shoe and then has a clip that holds it all together. I don't know if you could get them loose or not. You might be able to drill out the head of the pins on the rear of the backing plate if you can get to them. I can't remember what you can get to and what you can't, on the rear of the backing plate. The illustration below shows the parts under the brake drum and I've highlighted, in red, how the pins go through the backing plate and brake shoes and the clips that hold it all together.

 

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the adjuster confusses me, on the end of the adjuster its like a fork or so and it slides over the brackets for the brake shoes. a wide fork at that, almost like a flat head screw driver on the top side, and the bottom side of the bracket, sandwiching the bracket in the middle, running at a 90* angle to the bracket i turn it one click up, it hits the bracket, i turn it one click down, it hits the bracket. and when it hits, i cant turn it no more. its almost like its there to keep the brackets just lined up.
The adjuster screw that fits over the metal part of the brake shoes don't actually need to turn. It has threads on it like a bolt and it threads into the adjuster nut. When you turn the adjuster nut, the screw just comes straight out and pushed the brake shoes outward. When you adjust them in, the screw come in away from the shoes so the shoes can come away from the drum. Look at the picture below and you should understand how the adjuster nut and adjuster screw works.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
okay, so when i turn the adjuster nut, its supposed to push the adjuster screw in and out???

i think the problem is, its not pushing it in and out, and just turning the nut and screw all together.

im gonna check out them pins and see whats going on with that.
 

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okay, so when i turn the adjuster nut, its supposed to push the adjuster screw in and out???

i think the problem is, its not pushing it in and out, and just turning the nut and screw all together.
Yep, that's where they normally seize up. The adjusting screw seizes up in the adjuster nut and most of the time, they're real hard to get loose. If you can get the drum off, you can put the adjusters in a vise or hold them with a pair of vise-grips and heat them with a propane torch and use another pair of vise-grips to break them loose. One of the adjusters has right hand threads and the other adjuster has left hand threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
there appears to be bolts going to the steering knuckle (?????) from the brake panel.

i know those pins are kinda springy and give way some, but taking a hammer to the brake panel it does not budge, and they are threaded in from the inside of the brake those bolts are, i can see the ends of them on the steering rack.

man o man.
 

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there appears to be bolts going to the steering knuckle (?????) from the brake panel.

i know those pins are kinda springy and give way some, but taking a hammer to the brake panel it does not budge, and they are threaded in from the inside of the brake.

man o man.
There's 4 bolts that holds the brake panel/backing plate on, but you won't be able to take them out because they go through from the inside. The bolts that hold the wheel cylinder and the adjuster on go through from the back side, but I can't remember if you can get to them to get them out or not. You may be able to. The pins also go through the back side. If you can grind or drill the heads off the pins and if you can remove the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder and adjuster on from the back, you should be able to pull the drum, brake shoes, and everything off. You will also have to loosen the brake like from the back of the wheel cylinder.

i know those pins are kinda springy and give way some, but taking a hammer to the brake panel it does not budge, and they are threaded in from the inside of the brake.
Those pins will have to come out before you can pull the drum, brakes and all off. They aren't threaded in, but they do go in from the back side of the brake panel. You will have to grind or drill the heads off, probably drill because I think the heads are recessed in the brake panel. Don't try to remove the backing plate, itself. I doubt if you can get the clips off of the pins on the inside, but you can try. If you can line the hole up in the brake drum with the clip, you would have to push in on the clip and turn it 90 degrees, while at the same time, holding in on the head of the pin on the back side of the backing plate to keep it from turning or pushing rearward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
okay gottcha. yea i have all those bolts out, and i disconnected the brake line cause i did notice all that stuff was moving around and figured it would just slide out then. no luck.

yea, i see the pins on the inside where they connect. i might be able to get them off that way. with everything else off, i have taken a hammer to the back side of the drum itself, well on the side but swinging from the back side. and it wont budge. i can get a screw driver behind the head of the pins that your talking about and they have some play to them, so i doubt its just those pins that is left holding it on. but im more than capable of being wrong, haha.
 

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i can get a screw driver behind the head of the pins that your talking about and they have some play to them, so i doubt its just those pins that is left holding it on. but im more than capable of being wrong, haha.
If you have the bolts out of the wheel cylinder and the adjuster and have the brake line loose, there's nothing else to hold it, but the two pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if thats true, i will pop them out t/m, but like said, those pins have some give to them, and i hit the drum with a hammer trying to get it off and it was not budging.
 

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if thats true, i will pop them out t/m, but like said, those pins have some give to them, and i hit the drum with a hammer trying to get it off and it was not budging.
The reason they have some give to them is because the clip that holds them on is springy. It's like a spring clip. You have to push the clip down and turn it 90 degrees to unfasten it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yea, i noticed that, i tried to get it off previously with not so much luck, but if thats all thats holding me back, im sure i can make something work.

what im getting at tho, is that clip has some give, so i could see the drum giving a little when i tried to pull it off but not coming all the way off because of the clip. but the drum does not move the slightest bit. that is what is confusing me. could it be the bearing on the inside of the hub warped or something???? im winging ideas at this point........
 

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what im getting at tho, is that clip has some give, so i could see the drum giving a little when i tried to pull it off but not coming all the way off because of the clip. but the drum does not move the slightest bit. that is what is confusing me. could it be the bearing on the inside of the hub warped or something???? im winging ideas at this point........
Maybe the inner race of one of the bearings is seized on the spindle, but I've never seen that happen before. Could be though.
 

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you have to remove the brake drum hub..before you can get to the shoes..the brake drum hub seizes alot on thse atv's..they seem like they will never budge..but..they will come off..you have to pry from both sides of the drum..at the same time..if you get just one side out further than the other...it will get jamed up..pry at both sides with some large flat head screw drivers..it should come off then..it make take awhile..but it will come off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
that is the plan of action for today.

others were saying the bearing is pressed and so it needs force to get it off. when i hit it with the hammer i was not hitting it on both sides at the same time so i could see that not working out. sounds like a pulley, has to come strait off.
 

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that is the plan of action for today.

others were saying the bearing is pressed and so it needs force to get it off. when i hit it with the hammer i was not hitting it on both sides at the same time so i could see that not working out. sounds like a pulley, has to come strait off.
yeah..it has to come off pretty even..or it will be a pain to remove..spec if the drums are rusted over..i've seen it way too many times..at least it's not your back brake drum..i hate those !..lol
 

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others were saying the bearing is pressed and so it needs force to get it off.
The bearings are pressed into the drum, but they're not pressed onto the spindle. Normally, after you back the adjusters off, the drum should slide off. But in this case, the inner race of the bearings could be seized to the spindle. If the brake drum isn't trying to move forward any at all when you pry on the drum, then that's probably what's happening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well i cant back the adjusters out.....and im starting to bend the backing plate some with my screw drivers in there trying to pry the drum off. that is the progress i made thus far, also sprayed the bearing/spindle with pblaster last night.
 

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Try hitting straight in on the drum with a hammer, like you're trying to knock the drum back on. Maybe that will jar it loose. Go all the way around the drum. Then, try to pry it off.
 
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