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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my engine. After putting the top end completely together, I tried manually spinning the engine. It moves rather easily until its time to lift the valves. At this point it gets really heavy, then springs forward and turns easy again until next cycle. The cam chain is really tight, even without the tensioner. Is this normal? Chain si supposed to be new, how tight should it be, Clymers says nothing about it. Moose? Anyone? Regards.
 

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Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my engine. After putting the top end completely together, I tried manually spinning the engine. It moves rather easily until its time to lift the valves. At this point it gets really heavy, then springs forward and turns easy again until next cycle. The cam chain is really tight, even without the tensioner. Is this normal? Chain si supposed to be new, how tight should it be, Clymers says nothing about it. Moose? Anyone? Regards.
the timming chain is not suppose to be real tight....are you sure you got the right chain ??..also..check your valve settings..they maybe to tight ?..and..make sure you got the cam lobes facing the right way..they should be facing down..with piston on TDC..then put chain on..adjust valves..this should leave slack in chain.
 

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I would guess your valves are out of adjustment. Probably have no clearence put them at .004 and then turn it and see if its still really hard to turn. I mean it does get alittle harder on the compression stroke and yeah it does spring farward afterwards but the chain being really tight isnt right.
 

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yeah slam..the chain being really tight isn't right..sounds like it's in a bind some how..there should be slack in it..to let the chain slack adjuster take the slack out..thats the only thing i'm concerned about.
 

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Yeah, the chain is usually a little loose without the tensioner. There should be a little slack in the side of the chain if the tensioner is not in. If the valves are adjusted too tight, it might make the engine a little harder to turn over, but it shouldn't have anything to do with how tight the timing chain is.
 

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Maybe he didnt get the guides in right or he may not have gotten the bottom gear all the way in correctly. Possibly the wrong chain?
 

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Maybe he didnt get the guides in right or he may not have gotten the bottom gear all the way in correctly. Possibly the wrong chain?
if he got the right chain..and valves are set right..your probally right..the chain guides aren't set down in the holder right..there shouldn't be much slack in the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm guessing its the wrong chain.... There is very little to no slack without the tensioner. I have to wait a couple of weeks to get a new chain....
 

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I'm guessing its the wrong chain.... There is very little to no slack without the tensioner. I have to wait a couple of weeks to get a new chain....
did you purchase this as a new chain ?..or from another bike ?..timming chains have to be for the same year and make..they will not interchange..they have a number of links for a reason. so..if you baught the chain new..take it back..and get the right one..or at least take the old one..count the number of links..see if they are the same..if the links are the same..then your problem is you got your timming chain guides set down in the cylinder wrong..check all of this before you get another chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did not buy the chain. I bought the bike as a project. It was pulled apart. The guy handed me over with the "new chain". Can't get a hold of the guy any more. I'm going to look for the spacing of the OEM one, its supposed to be the same as the CBR 1000 except for the number of links (140 vs 110). I will also check the chain guides. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Agree^^^^ You may have the right chain count the links to be sure!
 

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Yep cbr 1000 or cbr 600 they both have the same tensioners and chains just different amnts of links
 

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I've seen some chains that weren't that loose, but they weren't stretched tight either. They should have a small amount of slack anyway.
 

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Yeah on mine when i had the tensioner off i could move the chain on the gear back and fourth a little bit.
 

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but how tight, tight enough that it was hard to turn by hand?
I doubt the chain being tight is what is causing it to be hard to turn. That's probably just caused by your compression and by opening the valves. It's normal for it to be hard to turn when it comes up on the compression stroke and then it will get easier when the piston goes back down and when it comes up on the exhaust stroke.
 

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Well that all depends i mean the motor has compression so your trying to force it to move. It doesnt just spin really easy but it isnt really hard to turn either. It has resistance from compression. And it gets harder for a little bit then lurches forward real easy because your at the mid point on the crank and the piston dosnt move up or down for that little bit.
 

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LoL me and Helmut are on the same page! I just type slower.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well that all depends i mean the motor has compression so your trying to force it to move. It doesnt just spin really easy but it isnt really hard to turn either.
Well, its pretty hard to turn, if I don't get it right it lurches backwards. Neither Spark plug nor exhaust is attached.

It has resistance from compression. And it gets harder for a little bit then lurches forward real easy because your at the mid point on the crank and the piston dosnt move up or down for that little bit.
When I do get it over compression stroke, it turns quite niecely.
 

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did you count the chain links ???..to see if they were the same ?..they have to be the same..i still think your chain is too tight..there needs to be..or shall i say..should be..alittle slack in the chain before you install the chain slack adjuster.
 
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