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Discussion Starter #1
Having issues after changing the oil for the first time. Please talk me down off the ledge.

- I followed the owners manual
- Took out the Dipstick
- Removed the plug nut and drained the oil
- Replaced the plug nut starting with 10lb of torque, felt like stripping before torque wrench even hit 10lb click, removed nut and found washer was bent. straightened washer and re-tightened. Could be a problem with this nut, but there's no leaking, maybe metal got up in the engine?
- Added exactly 1.5qt of 4 stroke 10w-40, replaced dipstick

Had problems starting up even with choke whereas before oil change, it started like-new

It finally did start and idled correctly. Let it warm up and visually inspected plug nut for leaks.

Rode for 10min and constantly stopped to visually inspect plug nut.

Rode for 15min longer and it started to sputter, then stalled and wouldn't start.

Has Gas, Fuel Line is On.

Spark plug cable is tight.

Kill switch is set to Run.

Unfortunately have made a call to the dealership, is there anything else I can do or check?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Doing some forum searching, maybe it's because I used Valvoline? Should I drain it and add Mobil 1?
 

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Did you follow instructions for type of oil (such as motorcycle oil). Wet clutch oil is not the same as car engine oil.
Otherwise how old is the petrol in the tank? Dry using a quarter can of sea foam in it you may have some clogging of the fuel system
 

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Hello,

I doubt that your choice of motor oil brand has anything to do with your issue. As long as the oil reads full on the dipstick and it is rated for wet clutches (JASO MA or MA/2) its safe to run. Its probably under warranty yet...? If so I'd let the dealer sort it out. If not we'll try to help.

Welcome to the forums!
 

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1.5 quarts of oil doesn't sound like much but 05-11 manual says 1.6 qts so ur close

Oil filter installed correctly?

Oil drain bolt torque is 25 ft-lbs so that sounds ok

Yeah definitely dealer consulting needed
 

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the oil leak around the plug is from the washer you straightened out , it is called a crush washer and they ( Honda) recommends you change it every time you take it off , I have only changed it one time because it leaked , after changing it the leaked stopped , you said you straightened it out and probably made it worst ------------ as far as it not starting I think it is just a coincidence , drain the bottom of the carb , catch the drained fuel and see if it has water or dirt in it
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well, after letting it sit all night and even with a low battery, it started right up. I ran through the flooded procedure a few times last night with no luck.

Bad news right now is that there is a minor leak coming out of the plug nut. THAT might be under warranty since I felt it strip before I hit 10lb and it needs to be tightened to 18lb. @fishfiles I will make sure I get the crush washer replaced.

Thanks for the replies so far guys, I did use valvolines 4T 'super wet clutch performance' motorcycle oil... manual calls for 10w-30 but avg temps here right now are a bit hotter, so bumped it to 10w-40.
 

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Great recommendations so far and believe it is likely old gas and/or bad spark plug. If you haven't used the right oil, no real problem (I say that loosely), get it running, drain it (get a new crush washer) and use oil approved for wet clutches. I would suggest for ease, grab approved oil at the dealership while getting a sparkplug. Alternatively, get something rated as "JASO MA", likely on the back in print and widely available options from dinosaur grade to synthetic...
 

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you might suspect the torque wrench--we think they're dialed in but what do we know about accuracy unless they're calibrated regularly?
You'll meet some knucklebusters here that don't use torque wrenches. I will torque bolts on a valve cover, rocker box, even lug nuts but not a drain plug. I figure if it's snug and not leaking it ain't coming out.
 

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well best of luck for you at the dealer, as if the drain plug is stripped, Sadly I think its going to be on YOU, as your not going to be able to PROVE to them you didn;t add more than called for torque.
and that's the name of the game on warranty claims,, if THE damage wasn;'t done by a authorized dealer, then YOU have to PROVE, to them that all things were done correctly, just showing them your torque wrench isn;t going to cut it
and last, IF the washer was BENT, and you added torque, it could act as a LEVER and add extra torque to things and thus stripped treads??, which again will sadly be on you?

However
its its just leaking some, it could be from the bent washer, as said above, there called CRUSH washers and designed to CRUSH to make a tight seal, and why there supposed to be replaced every time you change oil
(a note, MOST guys don't replace them LOL)
BUT< there is NO reason I can think of WHY one would be BENT, as in NOT in NOT Flat, it could have a dip in it towards the hole, from being CRUSHED like with head of bolt!
Right off the bat here, a dealer can say you DIDN"T follow OEM procedure , as you DIDN"T replace that washer at oil change time? so, have this in mind!, and if you add you STRAIGHTENED out the washer, that ain't helping your side here at all!


as for the running issue?
NOTHING about draining oil or adding new oil, can be a starting issue, and unless you OVER filled the oil, there shouldn;t be any running issue's(if correct oil type was used of course)

so, that was maybe just a bad timing of things, for you, and seems your Good there again any how, but just some info to know for next time?
 

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Hey, good luck. Those Recons are one of the best quads out there, and I'm curious to see what you come up with as the problem. I also had to replace crush washer one time after an oil change because it was leaking.
 

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Ive changed my oil 4 times in my 13' rancher, and havent replaced the crush washer yet..i do however have one on hand, and will replace during next change. im with Goober tho, i have never torque wrenched the drain nut.. i can feel when its tight enough. Especially going into aluminum..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The issue remains. It will run for a while (15-20min) and then stall out.

Starts right back up, give it any throttle, stalls.

I have the same gas in the trx250x that I bought at the same time.
 

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Is it under warranty? If so, let the dealer check it out. If you were to do certain things that a dealer might not like they can void your warranty...
 
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