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Discussion Starter #1
I just got done doing my first oil change on a used 2015 Foreman I recently bought. When I was tightening the drain plug bolt, it started to get tight and then it felt like it gave or slipped just a bit. I made sure it was snug and filled it up and saw no leaks. Do you think that little bit of give I felt was the crush washer collapsing a bit, or is it possible I might have stripped the threads. If I did strip them, would it be the plug or the case that most likely stripped? I didn't have a torque wrench (will buy one now though), just doing it by hand trying to guess at the 17 ft-lbs.
 

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You are likely ok. Watch it for a few days to see if it leaks. Buy yourself torque wrench, even if it's a cheap beam type. Working on aluminum means never ever over torquing. Ever.
 

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more than likely, you stripped out the threads on the engine case. you will ( sooner or later ) will be faced with a totally stripped out drain plug hole, and this will mean either another engine case half ?, or try a heli-coil ?. if you go the heli-coil route ?, you will need to buy a heli-coil thread repair kit- > M12x1.5 ,and a 29/32 drill bit.
 

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you can find great advice and members here ---> atvhonda.com , this is where we hang now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
more than likely, you stripped out the threads on the engine case. you will ( sooner or later ) will be faced with a totally stripped out drain plug hole, and this will mean either another engine case half ?, or try a heli-coil ?. if you go the heli-coil route ?, you will need to buy a heli-coil thread repair kit- > M12x1.5 ,and a 29/32 drill bit.
Any idea roughly how much each of those options would cost at a honda dealer?
 

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Any idea roughly how much each of those options would cost at a honda dealer?
to fix/replace the engine case half ?..haha..more than what you paid for the atv !. more than likely they wont heli-coil it, they go by the book, which means rip the motor out, split it, replace the engine case. if you do the heli-coil trick yourself ?, about 60 bucks ( give or take ? ).
 

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to fix/replace the engine case half ?..haha..more than what you paid for the atv !. more than likely they wont heli-coil it, they go by the book, which means rip the motor out, split it, replace the engine case. if you do the heli-coil trick yourself ?, about 60 bucks ( give or take ? ).
Anything wrong with getting an oil suction pump and just sucking the oil out through the fill and never messing with the drain plug?
 

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Anything wrong with getting an oil suction pump and just sucking the oil out through the fill and never messing with the drain plug?
if your keeping it ?, then no. if it were me ( and I know its not ), I would fix it the correct way, but this is me.
 

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if your keeping it ?, then no. if it were me ( and I know its not ), I would fix it the correct way, but this is me.
I appreciate your time. I'll admit that I am fairly new at all this. I think I might just go with the oil extraction route. Do you know if the suction tube can easily get down to the lowest point by the drain plug? I'm hoping there aren't any baffles or obstructions that would keep me from getting it all out of there.
 

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I appreciate your time. I'll admit that I am fairly new at all this. I think I might just go with the oil extraction route. Do you know if the suction tube can easily get down to the lowest point by the drain plug? I'm hoping there aren't any baffles or obstructions that would keep me from getting it all out of there.
you may or may not get most of the oil out ?, what you wont get out is any sludge that sits on the very bottom of the engine case. draining it would get most out, where is, drawing it out like you plan on doing ?, wont do this very well.
 

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and no, drawing it out like your planning to do ?, will not let you get anywhere near the drain plug.
 

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If it were me, I'd want to know if it were stripped or not. I'd be tempted to drain the oil, replace the washer, and tighten the drain plug with a torque wrench. At least you'd know for sure what you are dealing with. I think you'd really have to over tighten it quite a bit to strip it - good luck.
 

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If it were me, I'd want to know if it were stripped or not. I'd be tempted to drain the oil, replace the washer, and tighten the drain plug with a torque wrench. At least you'd know for sure what you are dealing with. I think you'd really have to over tighten it quite a bit to strip it - good luck.
the early trx500's were very bad about drain bolts stripping out the threads on the engine case, why ?, because the way honda designed them !. here's a pic of how they were made !, defective all the way !. there is not any meat there for the drain bolt to grab unto, just one piece at the top, broke off on many early trx500 engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If it were me, I'd want to know if it were stripped or not. I'd be tempted to drain the oil, replace the washer, and tighten the drain plug with a torque wr
the early trx500's were very bad about drain bolts stripping out the threads on the engine case, why ?, because the way honda designed them !. here's a pic of how they were made !, defective all the way !. there is not any meat there for the drain bolt to grab unto, just one piece at the top, broke off on many early trx500 engines.
Do you have a pic of the current design, assuming my 2015 is current
 

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to fix/replace the engine case half ?..haha..more than what you paid for the atv !. more than likely they wont heli-coil it, they go by the book, which means rip the motor out, split it, replace the engine case. if you do the heli-coil trick yourself ?, about 60 bucks ( give or take ? ).
Anything wrong with using a self tapping oversized drain plug instead? Really tempted to pull the plug to know for sure.
 

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Your best option is to use a helicoil, drill it out slow and try to get most of the metal shavings to fall down and not into the motor, put the original plug back in and it will be just fine.
 

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Anything wrong with using a self tapping oversized drain plug instead? Really tempted to pull the plug to know for sure.
as luke said ^^^, heli coil or time cert is your best option, other than ripping the motor out, and splitting the cases, and replacing the one bad side with another good side case.
 

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