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Discussion Starter #1
do you get any Gains from a programmer without exhaust? What's the best programmer to plug and play without needing a dyno? And does anyone have a recommendation for slip on exhaust that's not loud but still has decent flow?
 

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do you get any Gains from a programmer without exhaust? What's the best programmer to plug and play without needing a dyno? And does anyone have a recommendation for slip on exhaust that's not loud but still has decent flow?
The only reason you need a programmer for is to omit the O2 sensor.

Sent from my SM-T237P using Tapatalk
 

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Which just helps with it running to rich or to lean correct?
A functioning O2 sensor monitors your emissions and alerts you to problems such as rich, etc. The actual problem when it goes off then needs to be traced down to the actual cause.

Related, what exactly are you trying to do with a programmer?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm mainly looking to unlock a little extra torque I've upgraded tires to an aggressive 27in Kevlar belt tire which the wife tires in the back measure 28in. I don't really want to do a gear reduction out of fear for losing to much too end speed since I do a lot of trail riding (dirt roads). I just installed a clutch kit and it helped tremendously but I still have trouble getting them to move in real thick mud. Just trying to give it enough to get them to move
 

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I don't think you will get the end result you want with the programmer, gear reduction might be your only choice with those big tires to be able to turn them in deep thick mud...
 
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I put SRA secondary (18%) in my wife's DCT, along with a 500 top end and programmer.

The GR did more than even the 500 top end. Cheap using factory 420 footshift gears too.

Programmer and exhaust just makes it louder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much top end speed did you lose with the 18%? I have been looking into the 500 top end but wasn't sure what all is necessary for the install?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I really don't want it to be any louder. Seems to just be an annoying sound more than a quality deeper tone. In my opinion.
 

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You might gain some going to a PCV (Which can control timing) and running an autotune with it. These newer machines still run on the lean side, so there is a bit of power left on the table. The Swamp Series/Titan exhaust (not the XL version) is pretty quiet, deeper than stock but I wouldn't say louder.

Is it worth the investment of putting the tuner with autotune on the machine with no intention of running an exhaust or other performance mods.....probably not.
 

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Depends on how much $$ you have to spend with the programmer. (IMO)....
The only way to know for sure is to get one & keep an eye on your spark plug. Unless you have done it before, you really dont know. I use resistors to trick the ECU into thinking its running leaner than normal so it richens the mixture up. No problems doing this for well over 1000 miles. But its not for everyone.
 

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How much top end speed did you lose with the 18%? I have been looking into the 500 top end but wasn't sure what all is necessary for the install?
Hers tops out about 45-46 now with 26's on it, so the slightly bigger tires will throw off the speedometer a bit. With the gear reduction I did have to buy an autoshift module from Rapid Revolutions so it would shift correctly in auto mode at WOT.

The 500 top end you just need the cylinder, piston and rings, and gasket set.

The wife's is an 09 420FA, but I'm pretty sure the engines haven't changed between then and now on the 420's.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can deal with that speed loss. Mine probably runs close to 60 actual speed. 37 on my dash is actually 49 (gauging with a speedometer on a brand new atv beside me). And I I can get it to read 47-48.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So you just ordered the factory footshift primary and secondary? For the same year? And do you remember close to what you paid for it?
 

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So you just ordered the factory footshift primary and secondary? For the same year? And do you remember close to what you paid for it?
I actually lucked out, bought a set of nuts and bolts from Powersportsnation (when they strip a bike, they dump all the nuts, bolts, and odds and ends in a bag, and sell it on ebay). The nut and bolt setup came with the FM secondary.

New it's still only about $50 for the two gears.
 

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I think the exhaust pipe and muffler are welded not clamped so a slip on probably wont work unless you can find another slip on with the correct I.D..
 

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I wouldn't bother with an exhaust. On the 420's and 500's from around 2012 the mufflers are exactly the same, which tells me that a factory muffler is plenty big to handle a 500 motor.
 

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Depends on how much $$ you have to spend with the programmer. (IMO)....
The only way to know for sure is to get one & keep an eye on your spark plug. Unless you have done it before, you really dont know. I use resistors to trick the ECU into thinking its running leaner than normal so it richens the mixture up. No problems doing this for well over 1000 miles. But its not for everyone.
This mod seems cheap and easy. Just my kind of mod! LOL Please explain as best you can how the power is better. More low, mid, top. etc....thanks
 

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Depends on how much $$ you have to spend with the programmer. (IMO)....
The only way to know for sure is to get one & keep an eye on your spark plug. Unless you have done it before, you really dont know. I use resistors to trick the ECU into thinking its running leaner than normal so it richens the mixture up. No problems doing this for well over 1000 miles. But its not for everyone.
This mod seems cheap and easy. Just my kind of mod! LOL Please explain as best you can how the power is better. More low, mid, top. etc....thanks
Its more bottom end than anything. Machines run lean from the factory because of emissions but for the amount of difference i am not going to worry about it. Lets just say, if you try & pop a wheelie with one in 1st its almost impossible. But once i did this mod I can (with a bounce) bring it up in 3rd. So it does make a difference.
 
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