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do you get any Gains from a programmer without exhaust? What's the best programmer to plug and play without needing a dyno? And does anyone have a recommendation for slip on exhaust that's not loud but still has decent flow?
2015 Rancher 420 IRS Dct programmer without exhaust question
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The only reason you need a programmer for is to omit the O2 sensor.
Sent from my SM-T237P using Tapatalk
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Which just helps with it running to rich or to lean correct?
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A functioning O2 sensor monitors your emissions and alerts you to problems such as rich, etc. The actual problem when it goes off then needs to be traced down to the actual cause.
Related, what exactly are you trying to do with a programmer?
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I'm mainly looking to unlock a little extra torque I've upgraded tires to an aggressive 27in Kevlar belt tire which the wife tires in the back measure 28in. I don't really want to do a gear reduction out of fear for losing to much too end speed since I do a lot of trail riding (dirt roads). I just installed a clutch kit and it helped tremendously but I still have trouble getting them to move in real thick mud. Just trying to give it enough to get them to move
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How much top end speed did you lose with the 18%? I have been looking into the 500 top end but wasn't sure what all is necessary for the install?
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I really don't want it to be any louder. Seems to just be an annoying sound more than a quality deeper tone. In my opinion.
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You might gain some going to a PCV (Which can control timing) and running an autotune with it. These newer machines still run on the lean side, so there is a bit of power left on the table. The Swamp Series/Titan exhaust (not the XL version) is pretty quiet, deeper than stock but I wouldn't say louder.
Is it worth the investment of putting the tuner with autotune on the machine with no intention of running an exhaust or other performance mods.....probably not.
Is it worth the investment of putting the tuner with autotune on the machine with no intention of running an exhaust or other performance mods.....probably not.
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Depends on how much $$ you have to spend with the programmer. (IMO)....
The only way to know for sure is to get one & keep an eye on your spark plug. Unless you have done it before, you really dont know. I use resistors to trick the ECU into thinking its running leaner than normal so it richens the mixture up. No problems doing this for well over 1000 miles. But its not for everyone.
The only way to know for sure is to get one & keep an eye on your spark plug. Unless you have done it before, you really dont know. I use resistors to trick the ECU into thinking its running leaner than normal so it richens the mixture up. No problems doing this for well over 1000 miles. But its not for everyone.
Hers tops out about 45-46 now with 26's on it, so the slightly bigger tires will throw off the speedometer a bit. With the gear reduction I did have to buy an autoshift module from Rapid Revolutions so it would shift correctly in auto mode at WOT.
The 500 top end you just need the cylinder, piston and rings, and gasket set.
The wife's is an 09 420FA, but I'm pretty sure the engines haven't changed between then and now on the 420's.
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I can deal with that speed loss. Mine probably runs close to 60 actual speed. 37 on my dash is actually 49 (gauging with a speedometer on a brand new atv beside me). And I I can get it to read 47-48.
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So you just ordered the factory footshift primary and secondary? For the same year? And do you remember close to what you paid for it?
I actually lucked out, bought a set of nuts and bolts from Powersportsnation (when they strip a bike, they dump all the nuts, bolts, and odds and ends in a bag, and sell it on ebay). The nut and bolt setup came with the FM secondary.
New it's still only about $50 for the two gears.
Here are both gears with an output shaft for $25 shipped.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-HONDA...ash=item440d4cf9a6:g:9VwAAOSwwVpZ1WDX&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-HONDA...ash=item440d4cf9a6:g:9VwAAOSwwVpZ1WDX&vxp=mtr
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1,759 Posts
I think the exhaust pipe and muffler are welded not clamped so a slip on probably wont work unless you can find another slip on with the correct I.D..
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This mod seems cheap and easy. Just my kind of mod! LOL Please explain as best you can how the power is better. More low, mid, top. etc....thanks
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Its more bottom end than anything. Machines run lean from the factory because of emissions but for the amount of difference i am not going to worry about it. Lets just say, if you try & pop a wheelie with one in 1st its almost impossible. But once i did this mod I can (with a bounce) bring it up in 3rd. So it does make a difference.
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