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2014 honda rancher won't start

9752 Views 44 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  SamUK
Ok I have a 2014 honda rancher 420 4x4 foot shift. I bought it knowing it wasn't running and the guy said its a bad or stuck open injector. I pulled the injector off and turned the key and fuel was dumping out of the fuel line. put the injector on the fuel line and it was spraying when I hit the start button. Changed the spark plug and it was getting plenty of spark. I have a second 420 that I took the ECM and mass air low sensor and O2 sensor off of the bike and didn't change anything. It will sputter when you try and start it while hitting the throttle so I think it something simple but not sure. I am new to EFI so I am looking for some help. Carbs are definitely easier to work on but on to EFI.
Thanks,
Hunter
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ok well this is probably a stupid question but I looked up ignition timing in the service manual and it showed using a timing light and having the bike running but how would I check that if its not running. Is it checking the coil or what? im just new to some of these electrical things so im trying to avoid messing up
you don't need a timing light. all you need to do is follow the sticky on how to set and adjust valves on any 4 stroke in the repair section, if you follow that ?, then its home free.
He was inquiring about setting the ignition timing, not the valve timing. To use a timing light on an engine that isn't running, just turn the engine over with the starter while using the timing light.
yes, I know what he was asking, but if you look at the sticky, it covers everything on how to set the timing marks, you don't need a timing light if your setting valves, setting valves is the same thing as setting all the timing marks, i've done this thousands of times, I know what I told him :).
IF the compression test is within spec (if not stop right there and fix it), then check the ignition timing using a timing light while cranking the motor over with the starter. The service manual shows you how to do it through the timing access plug. If it looks like its out slightly, suspect that the woodruff key is sheared on the flywheel.
why does he need a timing light to check the ignition timing ?, there are timing marks everywhere on that motor, if he sets the marks, sight hole, rear crank case, piston on top dead center on the compression stroke ( which can be checked by the sticky on how to set and adjust valves ) , you don't need to crank anything over with the starter. I have never used a timing light to check ignition on an atv, I go by the timing marks, valves set on the compression stroke, bam..running engine !..lol.
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IF the compression test is within spec (if not stop right there and fix it), then check the ignition timing using a timing light while cranking the motor over with the starter. The service manual shows you how to do it through the timing access plug. If it looks like its out slightly, suspect that the woodruff key is sheared on the flywheel.
why does he need a timing light to check the ignition timing ?, there are timing marks everywhere on that motor, if he sets the marks, sight hole, rear crank case, piston on top dead center on the compression stroke ( which can be checked by the sticky on how to set and adjust valves ) , you don't need to crank anything over with the starter. I have never used a timing light to check ignition on an atv, I go by the timing marks, valves set on the compression stroke, bam..running engine !..lol.
Because we are not talking about checking valve timing, we are talking about ignition timing possibly being out because of a sheared flywheel woodruff key. You can't check the ignition timing any other way, the motor has to be spinning.
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Anyway, the compression test needs to be done first. If compression is low the ignition timing is obviously irrelevant. This is the logical order of every no-start diagnosis after spark and fuel are verified.
IF the compression test is within spec (if not stop right there and fix it), then check the ignition timing using a timing light while cranking the motor over with the starter. The service manual shows you how to do it through the timing access plug. If it looks like its out slightly, suspect that the woodruff key is sheared on the flywheel.
why does he need a timing light to check the ignition timing ?, there are timing marks everywhere on that motor, if he sets the marks, sight hole, rear crank case, piston on top dead center on the compression stroke ( which can be checked by the sticky on how to set and adjust valves ) , you don't need to crank anything over with the starter. I have never used a timing light to check ignition on an atv, I go by the timing marks, valves set on the compression stroke, bam..running engine !..lol.
Because we are not talking about checking valve timing, we are talking about ignition timing possibly being out because of a sheared flywheel woodruff key. You can't check the ignition timing any other way, the motor has to be spinning.
correct me if I am wrong ?, but if the T mark on the flywheel, and the raised arrow behind the starter cage don't line up ?, then your right, the flywheel woodruff key can be sheared ?, but if these two marks line up ?, then he has other issues.
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Anyway, the compression test needs to be done first. If compression is low the ignition timing is obviously irrelevant. This is the logical order of every no-start diagnosis after spark and fuel are verified.
deff agree on this ^^^.
why does he need a timing light to check the ignition timing ?, there are timing marks everywhere on that motor, if he sets the marks, sight hole, rear crank case, piston on top dead center on the compression stroke ( which can be checked by the sticky on how to set and adjust valves ) , you don't need to crank anything over with the starter. I have never used a timing light to check ignition on an atv, I go by the timing marks, valves set on the compression stroke, bam..running engine !..lol.
Because we are not talking about checking valve timing, we are talking about ignition timing possibly being out because of a sheared flywheel woodruff key. You can't check the ignition timing any other way, the motor has to be spinning.
correct me if I am wrong ?, but if the T mark on the flywheel, and the raised arrow behind the starter cage don't line up ?, then your right, the flywheel woodruff key can be sheared ?, but if these two marks line up ?, then he has other issues.
Because he does not have the motor taken apart, this is the diagnosis stage... a timing light is the best tool (and quickest) for this job.

I've been trying to get him to check the compression for 3 days now, but he wants to talk about all of these other things first, so thats why we are explaining them.
Because we are not talking about checking valve timing, we are talking about ignition timing possibly being out because of a sheared flywheel woodruff key. You can't check the ignition timing any other way, the motor has to be spinning.
correct me if I am wrong ?, but if the T mark on the flywheel, and the raised arrow behind the starter cage don't line up ?, then your right, the flywheel woodruff key can be sheared ?, but if these two marks line up ?, then he has other issues.
Because he does not have the motor taken apart, this is the diagnosis stage... a timing light is the best tool (and quickest) for this job.

I've been trying to get him to check the compression for 3 days now, but he wants to talk about all of these other things first, so thats why we are explaining them.
yeah, I seen your trying to get him to do a compression test. you don't need the motor part to check these two timing marks ?, both are easy to get to. anyway..i'll leave this for you and him :).
well as I figured it has good compression, it averaged about 75, it read from 60-90 so average of about 75. So I guess its on to checking the timing, so the best way is to pull the access holes or to use a timing light?
oh yea, and I did test it multiple times and got the average number. sometimes it said 80-90 and sometimes it said 75 and sometimes 60-65
well its good on timing and compression, it pops and was sorta running when you hold the throttle so what else is in the fuel system that can be changed or checked
so my next options are the tps or ckp sensors, which one should I change next. It ran for a minute but it was running rough and I had to keep throttling it on and off the the throttle constantly. when I let off it killed and it would pop off after that but not quite as good, had to keep holding the starter button
Sorry, I've been away for 24 hours working so haven't been able to help ya.

Have you swapped the fuel pump yet? I can't remember...

Check the sensors with an ohm meter (see attachment) and make sure every one of them are plugged in (the air temp sensor in the airbox too) when trying to start it.

You may have to initialize the TP/Map per the service manual. If it fails that procedure then at least you'd know what to zero in on.

Basically, everything needs to be tested to find the fault. I realize that a fuel pressure test might be impossible though. Honda didn't want the owner to be able to work on their own bike, so they made it expensive to rig a fuel pressure gauge up to them.

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After the motor dies while running/chugging with starter assistance, what does the spark plug look like? Is it wet or dry?
it is wet and has a blackish tint to it
new plug and didn't fix it
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new plug and didn't fix it
Is the new spark plug coming out wet too?
yep, im thinking its a sensor at this point
Is the fuel pump still running full time while you are cranking it over with the starter? Or does it shut off? Its suppose to run for 2 seconds then shut off each time the ignition switch is turned on.
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