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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking at electric shifting problems on this forum. I have read the posts on ES problems, but I think the problem is internal. This machine has stripped a tooth or two off three new shift motors over about a two year period. One time also stripped teeth off outside of the shift reduction gear. Each of those times the machine was manually shifted into neutral and after a new shift motor was installed then the trans shifted fine. Now installed a new shift motor and it will only shift into first gear with the electric shift being pushed several times. Every time the button is pushed it sounds like it is shifting, but seems to jump back into neutral. Once it shifts into first gear then it will shift up and down until shifted back to neutral, Then the same problem hard to get into first gear, cold or warm does not matter. Seems like if you shift into reverse and then into first it is likely to shift into first gear easier. Checked the reduction shift gear, the angle sensor and the clutch adjustment all are good. This machine is a farm machine with moderate to hard use seven days a week. The machine has 5600 hours. I have come to the conclusion the problem is internal. Any ideas on what the problem is and how deep is the problem?
 

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Two Main questions...

Were the replaced parts OEM or known good brand?

Is the motor/engine oil the correct specification?

Is the battery good, correct voltages showing using a multimeter? Known good brand?

Are all electrical connections clean, dry and not corroded? (Grounds also)
 

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time to pull the front cover, and have a look at the internal shifting parts where the shaft pokes through.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two Main questions...

Were the replaced parts OEM or known good brand?

Is the motor/engine oil the correct specification?

Is the battery good, correct voltages showing using a multimeter? Known good brand?

Are all electrical connections clean, dry and not corroded? (Grounds also)
All three shift motors have been OEM. Tested for voltage and resistance with a Fluke meter.
The battery voltage is 12.7 volts not running and I have checked all the harness connections and grounds. Checked the power supply to the shift motor and the clutch adjustment. Checked the connections at the ECU as well and found no problems. If you watch the shift indicator in the dash it shows that it goes into first gear and then jumps back out as soon as the button is released.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
time to pull the front cover, and have a look at the internal shifting parts where the shaft pokes through.
When I pulled the shift motor I pulled the cover and checked the reduction gear and the reduction shaft gear. The gears are good with no broken teeth and no real signs of wear.
 

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When I pulled the shift motor I pulled the cover and checked the reduction gear and the reduction shaft gear. The gears are good with no broken teeth and no real signs of wear.
I am not talking about the shifting transfer gears, what I speak of is behind/inside the front cover, this is where your shifting parts are thats attached to the shifting shaft.
 

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all these parts ----> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2013/trx420fe-ac-rancher-es/gearshift-fork , is where you need to inspect, and you must pull the engine front cover to get to them. once cover is off, you will find them on lower bottom right side when facing engine from front :). my concern is the parts that are on the shifting shaft, and attached to the very end of the shift drum. if all these are good ?, then you got worse problems deep inside the lower engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
all these parts ----> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2013/trx420fe-ac-rancher-es/gearshift-fork , is where you need to inspect, and you must pull the engine front cover to get to them. once cover is off, you will find them on lower bottom right side when facing engine from front :). my concern is the parts that are on the shifting shaft, and attached to the very end of the shift drum. if all these are good ?, then you got worse problems deep inside the lower engine.
Thanks for your advice and the parts link. I might as well go ahead and pull the motor for the repair. I will post what I find as the problem. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for your advice and the parts link. I might as well go ahead and pull the motor for the repair. I will post what I find as the problem. Thanks again.
yw. you don't have to pull the motor to do what I posted ^^^, you can do that while the motor is in the frame :).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yw. you don't have to pull the motor to do what I posted ^^^, you can do that while the motor is in the frame :).
I know I don't need to pull the motor to pull the front cover. I never seem to get a easy fix, so I prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
 

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I know I don't need to pull the motor to pull the front cover. I never seem to get a easy fix, so I prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
its your time..lol. only time I pull a motor is when I am splitting it to rebuild it, other than this ?, I wont pull them.
 

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If my problem is deeper than behind the front cover, the engine will need to come out anyway. Correct?
correct. but i'd want to take it one step at a time, why do all the extra work when it wasn't needed ?. your call :).
 

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All three shift motors have been OEM. Tested for voltage and resistance with a Fluke meter.
The battery voltage is 12.7 volts not running and I have checked all the harness connections and grounds. Checked the power supply to the shift motor and the clutch adjustment. Checked the connections at the ECU as well and found no problems. If you watch the shift indicator in the dash it shows that it goes into first gear and then jumps back out as soon as the button is released.
Checked the shift change switch itself? If not it's certainly worthy of inspection before digging deeper.

Admittedly, it sounds internal but there's always the possibility that it's a connection issue within the switch itself.
 

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There is a 8mm shaft that sticks out the front of the motor, it is the end of the shift shaft. Put a wrench on it and try to shift it manually to see what it does. If you can shift it through all the gears that way than the transmission and shifting ratchet mechanisim inside the motor are ok.
 
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