Hello,
I have a 2013 Honda Rancher 420FPA (420AT) which has a burnt out shift motor. The machine has approximately 4000 miles on it and has up to now been relatively trouble free (other than a shift angle sensor back at around 2500 miles).
One week back it quit shifting while out riding and I ultimately ended up stuck in gears 1-2. I eventually limped it back and began troubleshooting. In my troubleshooting I found that 30A fuse Main 1 was blown and chased that down to a bad shift motor (I know its bad as if I give it 12 volts directly to the battery it draws 60+ amps where as a good motor with no load is less than 1amp).
I procured a new Honda shift motor and installed it. I also cleaned off the old dry grease on the shift motor gears and put some new grease on the gears (though in reading these forums I messed up a bit here as I used some typical #2 grease out of a grease gun and smeared it on the gear teeth when I should have just used a very thin coating of something lighter). With the new shift motor installed it ran good for one ride. Well, it seemed to fight me getting into the gears right off the bat, but once everything warmed up it seemed to work great cycling through the gears. The second ride out a few days later and it was shifting poorly and eventually not at all. Ultimately the new shift motor ended up burnt out along with fuse Main 1 being blown (this didn't blow right away as I checked it throughout the ride when it would not shift). Ambient temps have been in the 40-50*F.
Using the emergency shift lever everything feels smooth. With the shift motor still on the shifting is kind of mushy due to the drag of the motor, but with it off the transmission seems to shift through the gears. With the AT, how many upshift and downshift gear positions should I have to check? Is it still just R+N+5gears?
I came across a post here on the forum that mentions having to replace the PCM with the shift motor when the 30A Main 1 fuse is found blown. Am I reading this correctly? If that is what it takes, then so be it, but I hate to be shotgunning expensive parts at the problem. I plan to take the PCM out and open it up for the good old sniff test to see if any components look damaged, just haven't done it yet.
(well it looks like I can't provide a link on my first post, so I will try and put this link up in a follow up post)
Oh, lastly, I don't recall getting a code with the first failed shift motor, but with this second one I am getting code 24 Shift Control Motor Drive Circuit.
This post wandered a bit, but I guess I'm looking for advice/experience as to where to go from here. Is it likely that the first shift motor just happened to be a normal failure and then my second motor failed due to a combination of my thick greasing and not replacing the PCM? I have another 2011 that I could rob parts off of for troubleshooting, but it is owned by a family member and I am apprehensive to break it and have two of them down.
Thank you for your time.
I have a 2013 Honda Rancher 420FPA (420AT) which has a burnt out shift motor. The machine has approximately 4000 miles on it and has up to now been relatively trouble free (other than a shift angle sensor back at around 2500 miles).
One week back it quit shifting while out riding and I ultimately ended up stuck in gears 1-2. I eventually limped it back and began troubleshooting. In my troubleshooting I found that 30A fuse Main 1 was blown and chased that down to a bad shift motor (I know its bad as if I give it 12 volts directly to the battery it draws 60+ amps where as a good motor with no load is less than 1amp).
I procured a new Honda shift motor and installed it. I also cleaned off the old dry grease on the shift motor gears and put some new grease on the gears (though in reading these forums I messed up a bit here as I used some typical #2 grease out of a grease gun and smeared it on the gear teeth when I should have just used a very thin coating of something lighter). With the new shift motor installed it ran good for one ride. Well, it seemed to fight me getting into the gears right off the bat, but once everything warmed up it seemed to work great cycling through the gears. The second ride out a few days later and it was shifting poorly and eventually not at all. Ultimately the new shift motor ended up burnt out along with fuse Main 1 being blown (this didn't blow right away as I checked it throughout the ride when it would not shift). Ambient temps have been in the 40-50*F.
Using the emergency shift lever everything feels smooth. With the shift motor still on the shifting is kind of mushy due to the drag of the motor, but with it off the transmission seems to shift through the gears. With the AT, how many upshift and downshift gear positions should I have to check? Is it still just R+N+5gears?
I came across a post here on the forum that mentions having to replace the PCM with the shift motor when the 30A Main 1 fuse is found blown. Am I reading this correctly? If that is what it takes, then so be it, but I hate to be shotgunning expensive parts at the problem. I plan to take the PCM out and open it up for the good old sniff test to see if any components look damaged, just haven't done it yet.
(well it looks like I can't provide a link on my first post, so I will try and put this link up in a follow up post)
Oh, lastly, I don't recall getting a code with the first failed shift motor, but with this second one I am getting code 24 Shift Control Motor Drive Circuit.
This post wandered a bit, but I guess I'm looking for advice/experience as to where to go from here. Is it likely that the first shift motor just happened to be a normal failure and then my second motor failed due to a combination of my thick greasing and not replacing the PCM? I have another 2011 that I could rob parts off of for troubleshooting, but it is owned by a family member and I am apprehensive to break it and have two of them down.
Thank you for your time.
