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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,

I just changed the oil as per the manual. Got a drain plug washer, rubber O Ring and the filter. Got 4 quarts of 10W-40. Drained the oil thru the drain plug into a pan. Removed both the oil fill plug and the dipstick. Removed the 3 bolts that hold the cover over the filter. Removed old filter and installed the new one correctly, with the "This side Out" correct and then spring and cover. Installed the drain plug after all oil had drained. Rancher was on level ground, but when I filled the oil I only go it to take 3 quarts and then it was over filled. Had to drain some out to get it to the correct level on the dipstick. Book says 3.8 quarts when changing filter. I had warmed the oil up prior to changing. Any ideas on why this happened. Was there oil that didn't drain and I should have done something different?

Ran it and checked level. Still where it should be, all is good, but my change did not go as it should have...

Your thoughts...
 

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Greetings,

I just changed the oil as per the manual. Got a drain plug washer, rubber O Ring and the filter. Got 4 quarts of 10W-40. Drained the oil thru the drain plug into a pan. Removed both the oil fill plug and the dipstick. Removed the 3 bolts that hold the cover over the filter. Removed old filter and installed the new one correctly, with the "This side Out" correct and then spring and cover. Installed the drain plug after all oil had drained. Rancher was on level ground, but when I filled the oil I only go it to take 3 quarts and then it was over filled. Had to drain some out to get it to the correct level on the dipstick. Book says 3.8 quarts when changing filter. I had warmed the oil up prior to changing. Any ideas on why this happened. Was there oil that didn't drain and I should have done something different?

Ran it and checked level. Still where it should be, all is good, but my change did not go as it should have...

Your thoughts...
3.8 qts is for the FA (automatic) models. FM and FE (manual and electric shift) take 2.9 qts with filter change according to the service manual (2014).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Rancher I'm talking about is a 2011 TRX420FPA. This has the automatic transmission that is D-N-R and the choice of manually 'Thumb Shifting" R-N-1-2-3-4-5. Also has Power Steering, 4X4, and Independent Rear Suspension. Model is supposed to be TRX420FPA. I looked at Honda's Site with info in an owners manual but they don't have it for 2011. They have 2009 and 2010. Also looked at Service Manual and never saw any reference to the 2.9 quarts. Happy with the level, but just a bit confused. This model is supposed to share the engine oil with the transmission. This is my neighbor's and I have to get over there and look at his owners manual. I found it the other day, but since I had a service manual, I didn't look at the oil requirements.

Thanks for the replies...I am NOT screwing the dipstick in. I have a few Kawasaki's and they require you to screw the dip stick in.
 

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I have the 2009 420 AT (FPA) whatever. I recently did the oil change and it held nearly 4qts. I am not sure what is going on with yours. Maybe some other folks with the same model will chime in.
 

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Hmmmm. that's strange.

Are you checking the oil properly? On those 420AT's you have to crank it up and let it run for a couple of mins, then shut it off, wait a minute, then check the oil.

If you check it when it's been sitting it will show overfull..

To quote Melatv

"This you may or not know -- you bike has a Dry Sump engine
Dry sump engines are a bit different from wet sump engines. On Dry Sump engines you will need to start and run the engine for five minutes or so -- then shut the engine off and wait for 2 - 3 minutes BEFORE you check the oil level.
Also if the engine has been sitting for any length of time you have to run it for 5 minutes, then shut off -- wait 2 - 3 minutes and check. Even if you have just changed the oil, you will need to run the engine.

This is because the oil tanks are all above the engine's oil pump. The oil is gravity feed to the pump. The oil will back feed through the pump gears and into the sump. The longer the engine sits, the more oil seeps back into the sump.
You have to run the engine so the scavenging oil pump will pump all the excess oil out of the crankcase and into the oil tank. Once the crankcase is empty of oil and the oil tank is full of oil, you can get a accurate oil level reading. Don't check the oil immediately after coming in from a hard run."
 

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There is always some oil left in the oil pump I believe and the oil pump is above are right at the oil line of the motor form what I've seen when I had my cases apart ur good as long as the dip stick says u good ride on
 

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There have been some other comments about this on random threads. The five minutes of run time is critical, because if the engine isn't warm enough you get a wrong reading on the oil level.
 
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