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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I think I've reached the limit of my tinkering. My ATV ran fine through several tanks this spring, and then began bogging down. I assumed a clogged jet, so I took the carb out and cleaned it. I thought I did pretty good, but when I put everything back together, it was still doing the same. I figured it didn't get something all the way cleaned out so I parked it to try again or get a rebuild kit.

The next day my kids got on it while at work. When I went to put it away that night it wouldn't start. While looking at it I found the airbox had standing gas in it. So at that point I took the key until I could investigate. Everything I read said the gas in the airbox was either a malfunctioning float or possible the valves could be far enough off to force gas back through the carb. Trying to move it into the shop it wouldn't try to start.

Since the rebuild kit was around $35 and a cheap carb was around $75, I just bought the cheap carb (I've read the stickies, I know) to switch out and figured I would do a full dip clean later and keep it as a spare (I have two identical ATVs, except this was is the PS model).

Today I took the replaced the carb, took off and cleaned the fuel tank, and set the valves. This was my first time doing that but it was really straight forward and I assume I did it essentially correctly. After putting everything back together, it wouldn't idle but I could keep it running with the throttle. Taking it out, it actually ran really well driving around, but even warm it wouldn't idle.

Now, I'm a novice it most mechanical things. I'm cheap and usually enjoy working on things, so I learn what I need to do and it generally goes OK. But I don't have an in-depth knowledge. The only adjustment I can find on the carburetor for this machine is the throttle wheel screw. I had seen some others with (excuse incorrect terminology here) essentially a gross and fine adjustment.

150446


I've tried screwing this in to increase the throttle at idle. I can get it idling, but it seems a little rough and like it's running too hot. I'm comparing to the sister vehicle but it's not a great comparison since the other has a spark arrester. One other thing is that there is of course a great difference between having the air filter on or not, but in the couple of weeks it took to get a carb the existing filter was sitting in gas and i have yet to get a replacement. I'm assuming there's enough flow difference that having a new filter will have a noticeable effect on the settings.

So my main question is what is the process of setting these correctly? My understanding was that the stock setting would match the OEM carb so I assumed my tinkering should have been unnecessary. And then, what else should I be digging in to? Once I get this running nice, I need to tune up the other. I'm hearing some front end ticking so I plan on at least setting the valves but I bought these new and am not sure of the previous maintenance so I'd like to do everything and get a baseline for that. So obviously I have some lessons learned to take into the next round.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Update 6/2:

I adjusted the throttle enough that it would idle, it sounded rough but revved OK, no bogging down like previous. I took it on a short ride to see how it would perform. After riding for roughly a mile and stopping, it didn't want to start again. I got it started finally by removing the air filter. Once started, it didn't want to idle or run at all without throttle. At high throttle it ran something like normal, but would feel like a miss in a vehicle. Back in the garage until I learn/hear more.

Also, one other thing I thought about that may or may not be relevant, with the new carburetor I did not replace the choke needle. The spring mechanism and boot looked like I may end up doing more damage replacing than leaving, the needle looked fine and fit in the new carb the same as the old one did.
 
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