Greetings folks! I have a '07 Recon I picked up this weekend and it has not been used too much except for the guy checking his cattle in his small pasture a few times a week. The idle is a little rough for my liking and will stall if left for 30 seconds to a minute. I have increased the idle but cannot get it to idle smooth. If I pull the choke out slightly it seems to run smoother, which leads me to believe it is running a little lean. I replaced the plug and it was a light tan in color. I also noticed it has small backfire when you rev up the engine and let off the gas as well as when coasting downhill. Again this leads me to believe it is running a little lean. I've read about the air/fuel screw the requires a special D shaped tool. Do I need to adjust this? Also, can you let me know where this adjustment is. Thanks again for all your help guys!!!!!!!!
2007 Recon - Rough low idle - help!
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I would pull the carb and give it a good cleaning I doubt that the farmer jetted or did anything but ride it, clean the air filter or replace it too. also make sure the carb vent hose isn't stopped up and is running up towards the top of the frame upwards.
Welcome to the forums.
Welcome to the forums.
Thanks for the suggestions folks! (And the warm welcome!) I have a new air filter that came in at my dealership so I'll replace that soon. I'm going to give the carb a good cleaning this weekend and I'll also check the vent lines. When I purchased the maching the farmer just rode it and didn't do anything else (no mods). There is very little use on this machine and he said he changed the oil once... and it showed when I changed it. (I'm beginning to think it's the original oil.) It was black and the new oil I put in it turned black in about 30 minutes so I purchased more oil and changed it again. Now it looks like it has new oil in it. The air filter doesn't really look dirty either (you can still see it's yellow and not dusty), but I'm going to start with new anyway. Thanks agian guys!! (And I'll let you know how it turns out.)
When I cleaned the tank last weekend I looked for a place to install an in line filter and there is no room since the fuel line is very short and it resided in a channel or tray that is between the tank and tank craddle. i did find out there is a screen connected to the petcock in the tank and if I'm looking at the carb parts diagram correctly there is a small screen where the fuel line connnects to the carb.
On a different note I'm thinking of getting the Clymer service manual for this ATV. Does anyone know if it is as good as the Honda service manual????
On a different note I'm thinking of getting the Clymer service manual for this ATV. Does anyone know if it is as good as the Honda service manual????
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The Honda manual has more detail and is machine specific. Now I got to ask....What kind of oil are you putting in your quad? please don't use conventional motor oil you will be hating yourself later. I highly recommend GN4 or HN4 honda oil. the clutches require a special friction modifier, conventional motor oil doesn't have this.
Good question on the oil. I used the Honda oil the first time (GN4 I think) and used Valvoline ATV oil 10W 40 the 2nd time. It was a little less expensive and said it has additives for the wet clutch. I read where there are a lot of people using it and happy with it. Any insight you have would help. I'm not oppose to the Honda oil ot the price, but at the time that was all I could get my hands on since my dealer is closed on Sunday & Monday and I wanted to get it changed on Sunday while I had time. Thanks!!!
http://valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/motorcycle-atv-oil/15
http://valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/motorcycle-atv-oil/15
Hi guys! It looks like I fixed the issues with the Recon!!!! It runs & idles like a million bucks now! Here is what I did. I went out and purchased a Clymer manual and it was helpful to have this detail. When I got to the project I pulled the airbox and cleaned it thoroughly and replaced the filter. Then I pulled the carb and took several pictures of it with my digital camera to make it easier to remember where the vacuum lines went. I then took it all apart as instructed in the Clymer manual. I had an issue removing the pilot screw because it is designed to take a special tool to remove it (it is set by the factory and not meant to be jacked with by the weekend worrier due to emissions. I also think this had a lot to do with my underlying problem, it was set too lean). I was able to remove the pilot screw by carefully using a small screwdriver but it did require patients. (Once removed I was able to take a Dremel tool & cut a slot in the top of the pilot screw for installation and future adjustment by a slotted screwdriver.) Once apart I used aerosol carb cleaner to clean all the ports, lines, jets, etc. It was actually quite clean, but I still gave it a good once over. I replaced the rubber seals and gaskets and put it all back together again. When setting the pilot screw the manual wasn’t very clear and said 2 7/8 turns out for ’97 models and 2 5/8 turns out for ’98-’01 models. It didn’t say anything for ’07 models. I wanted to start a little rich so I stared at 3 turns out and it is set there now. After putting it all back together it stared right up once the fuel got to the carb bowl. I let it warm up and set the idle. It idled great! Then ran it good in the hilly 10 acre pasture behind our house at all different speeds, RPMs, costing downhill, pulling uphill, etc. Then reset the idle. Now it starts, idles, runs, etc. like it should, with no backfire!!!!! If anything I may need to tighten the pilot screw down 1/8 to 1/4 turn, but for now I’m going to leave it since it runs great!!!! Thanks for all your help guys!!
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