Good evening, I have a 2007 Honda Rancher 420 2wd Manual Shift. To start from the beginning, battery died, tried to charge it, it started, shut off now will not do any thing. It keeps blowing the 10A IGN Fuse and Fuel Pump will not run like normal when the key is turned to the on position. I have pulled all of the electrical connections in the back of the bike and plugged in until the fuse blows. Originally, i found that when i plug the relay that is in the back into its connection, it immediately blows the fuse. I thought it was the relay, ordered another, and same issue continues. When the relay is not plugged in, the bike will turn over all day long, (Still nothing from the fuel pump and will not start, just turns over) with all of the connections connected or disconnected, except for the starter solenoid of course. When i plug that relay in, if all connections are connected it will blow the fuse. If the right one is plugged in (grey) and the left one unplugged (Black Square) (At the back of the bike facing forwards) the relay makes a buzzing noise. Also noticed today, with all of the electrical connections together, the right plug (grey) (at the back of the bike facing forward) the wires going get hot to the touch. Any help would be much appreciated.
2007 Honda Rancher Won't Start
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It sounds like the fuel pump is seized up. Or there is an issue with one of the relays. Try unplugging the pump and see if it quits blowing that IGN fuse.
EDIT: You can find a free copy of the service manual here:
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html
EDIT: You can find a free copy of the service manual here:
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html
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You replaced that "Fuel Pump Waterproof Relay" already, correct? Is that a genuine Honda part number or a china knockoff you found on the 'net cheaper?
That leaves either a bad/incorrect/china relay, or shorted wiring to ground in the harness as likely possibles.
You can trace possible shorts using a multimeter. If the relay is not an OEM Honda part then its gotta be replaced with one.
That leaves either a bad/incorrect/china relay, or shorted wiring to ground in the harness as likely possibles.
You can trace possible shorts using a multimeter. If the relay is not an OEM Honda part then its gotta be replaced with one.
Just an un-important update, i have no had a chance to try the suggestions from the previous post/replys. i have been busy like no other. when i get a chance to get messing with it again, i will post/update what i find or don't find.
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Hi: You only have one relay on your bike that has the engine stop & fuel pump relay built into the one relay. The gray and the two black connectors in a row are connectors for the ECM not relays. You say the Gray connector is getting hot -- take the two small wires off the ign. coil -- check gray connector for heat.
@Melatv okay, i plan to try to dig back into it this weekend. when i take the small wires off the ignition coil, and check the gray connector for heat, what will that tell me? As far as whether there is heat or no heat? if no heat, the ignition coil is shorting it out? Thanks
@Melatv and @retro i looked back into it this weekend. i could not get the gray connector to show signs of heat before the 10A IGN fuse would blow. When the two black connectors are plugged in, does not blow the fuse. As soon as i plug the gray one in, it blows the fuse. And vice versa, if only the gray plug is plugged in, it blows the fuse. (seems to have common occurrence with this gray plug in my case). I proceeded to figure out that when i unplug the bank angle sensor, and plug the gray plug in, it does not blow the fuse. as soon as i plug in the bank angle sensor, it blows the fuse. I ordered a new bank angle sensor (Honda part number, not cheap off brand) plugged it in today (hoping i would hear the fuel pump run and it would start) and nothing, it still burns the fuse. The bike turns over with just the two black plugs plugged in, but then obviously when i plug in the gray plug and it fries the fuse, it no longer turns over. i feel like my options are getting narrow to a bad PCM/ECM but from other research from people thinking the same thing, the PCM/ECM was not the case and the last post on the threads was the issue was unanswered and unfound. Not giving up, just looking now for all possible scenarios. I tried multiple different scenarios as stated in comments on this thread of unplugging the fuel pump, the ignition coil, the bank angle sensor. Just not sure of what else to try at this point. Thanks for all your input
correct me if i am wrong, but mine is not going to have a electric shift motor since it is a manual shift right? I am out of town for work this week but plan to get back in it when i return home. Again, i appreciate all the help and advice so far!
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you are correct, your model does not have a shift motor.
Good afternoon, it seems like forever but i was finally able to get back at it, in digging into this nightmare of a problem again this weekend. From getting married to moving into a house, my time has been very limited lately. I was able to do some more tracing and digging this weekend, and the two wires that come off of the blown IGN fuse, one goes to the key switch in the "Dash" and the other goes to the grey plug on the PGM-FI Unit. I was also able to trace from there, one wire on that same plug goes to the Fuel Pump and another goes to the Spark Plug. This same grey plug is the one that as soon as i plug it in, the fuse blows. To reiterate, I have previously found if i unplug the Bank-Angle Sensor with the grey plug plugged in, it does not blow the fuse (Which led me to believe it was a bad sensor). I bought a new one and the same problem continues. I was working on it with my grandfather (an electrical guru) and he ran a test on the PGM-FI unit where the grey plug plugs in and found to what he believes a short within that. however, with not knowing how this system works, we could be wrong in our thinking. With my symptoms leading to this plug (fuel pump not running, no spark, and one of the wires that is blowing the fuse) is it a safe bet to assume I need to be in the market for a new PGM-FI unit? I hate to buy one and this not be the issue and now i am stuck with it due to typically not being able to return electronic related parts. But i also want my ATV running again... LOL thank you guys for all of your help
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