[Scottraig]

My 2006 TRX350FM runs fine for 10-15 minutes, stalls, fails to start, but if I let it sit for 10 mins it will start fine. When it runs, it runs perfect.

When it wont start, it turns over fine, and when I start pumping throttle its starts to sputter but not enough to start. Holding choke open / pushing primer doesnt seem to have any effect.

I checked plugs, good spark, but after trying to start bike for a few minutes it was bone dry, so I suspect I am intermittently not getting fuel.

I checked tank, petcock and filter all intact, fuel flows through the hose. My bike has sat for months at a time since 2006, and has never had carb maintenance. I use fuel stabilizer most often, so its possible the carb is gummed. I run some sea foam from time to time and currently ran new high test gas an sea foam fuel injector cleaner through it.

Safe to say this is a carb problem? I have never maintained a carb, so I am wondering if I should spend $70 and roll the dice on an after market carb, or save the headache and spend $275 for a Honda.

Maybe learn to do some cleaning, not like I have much to lose.

Anything else come to mind?

Thanks!

 

[Goober]

I would not buy an aftermarket carb. Sounds like your carb need a rebuild—a 3 on a 0-10 scale of difficulty. If you cheap out you will continue to have problems.

I recommend you go to your local Honda shop and talk tothe service manager. Find what they would charge. My guess $300 but consider a rebuild kit will cost $50, a primer pump $50 and a choke valve $50 as well.
I also recommend you perform a complete service including bleeding brakes.

i personally would rebuild myself but i have rebuilt several. download the service manual from the link in my signature block below. Check it out—it’s not a beginner job but you could probably manage if you follow instructions well.

use the oem parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and partzilla. Check out those three parts I mentioned

 

[Scottraig]

I would not buy an aftermarket carb. Sounds like your carb need a rebuild—a 3 on a 0-10 scale of difficulty. If you cheap out you will continue to have problems.

I recommend you go to your local Honda shop and talk tothe service manager. Find what they would charge. My guess $300 but consider a rebuild kit will cost $50, a primer pump $50 and a choke valve $50 as well.
I also recommend you perform a complete service including bleeding brakes.

i personally would rebuild myself but i have rebuilt several. download the service manual from the link in my signature block below. Check it out—it’s not a beginner job but you could probably manage if you follow instructions well.

use the oem parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and partzilla. Check out those three parts I mentioned

Spoke to Honda, they mentioned on rare occasion they have seen CDI issues that once the bike gets up to temp it just cuts out. Recommended getting it diagnosed first, which I am going to do.

Partzilla wants $275CAN for the carb, Honda Canada wants $375. If need be, I'll go Partzilla. I'll check the link, can't hurt to do some cleaning anyways. Thanks!

Brakes are next, I have new pistons to swap out.

 

[Goober]

Here’s a pic of a TRX300 carb; now it’s different than yours in a few ways so if you want to try rebuilding it:
Buy a genuine Shindy or K&L rebuild kit.
Buy an oem choke (SE) valve.
Buy an oem primer plunger.
We can help you thru the rest
the primer plunger alway seems to like to fart dirt right into the jets.

 

[Scottraig]

Here’s a pic of a TRX300 carb; now it’s different than yours in a few ways so if you want to try rebuilding it:
Buy a genuine Shindy or K&L rebuild kit.
Buy an oem choke (SE) valve.
Buy an oem primer plunger.
We can help you thru the rest
the primer plunger alway seems to like to fart dirt right into the jets. View attachment 154707

Great pic, thanks for that. This makes the diagrams in the manual less intimidating. I will test the CDI this weekend, try to rule that out. I saw some of your posts regarding CDI, and it does present the same behavior.

 

[Goober]

I have an 06 also—try draining all the fuel and inspect the interior of the tank and petcock with a very bright light. Maybe debris in the tank or clogging petcock. Refill with fresh fuel and seafoam fuel system cleaner.
I agree could be carb gummed up.

 

[Scottraig]

I have an 06 also—try draining all the fuel and inspect the interior of the tank and petcock with a very bright light. Maybe debris in the tank or clogging petcock. Refill with fresh fuel and seafoam fuel system cleaner.
I agree could be carb gummed up.

This was my weekend a few weeks ago. Took it all apart, all looked good. Fresh gas and Seaform Fuel injector cleaner. New plug as well.

Love the dark green. At the time they had yellow or red. I went red.

 

[bcbuck]

Also pull spark wire and see if getting spark when not starting. Some electronics will go open when hot but will start after cool down.

 

[Goober]

Good then you know your way around the carb; changed plug. No fuel filter right?

do a battery load test? A weak battery right off the charger might start you off then cause stumbling as it fails to recharge
CDI would be good bet.
Perform diagnostics for the reg/rec, stator also

 

[Scottraig]

Good then you know your way around the carb; changed plug. No fuel filter right?

do a battery load test? A weak battery right off the charger might start you off then cause stumbling as it fails to recharge
CDI would be good bet.
Perform diagnostics for the reg/rec, stator also

I treated myself to a brand new AGM battery a month ago.

No fuel filter other than the one in the tank. I am debating adding one inline, is that generally recommended?

 

[Goober]

IMO No need for another filter that hose is already small

 

[Scottraig]

Good then you know your way around the carb; changed plug. No fuel filter right?

do a battery load test? A weak battery right off the charger might start you off then cause stumbling as it fails to recharge
CDI would be good bet.
Perform diagnostics for the reg/rec, stator also

Goober, is it safe to say that going for a ride will generate more heat to the CDI? I took CDI off and did a baseline continuity test; everything was fine. I ran the bike in driveway hoping it would stall out, then I would run the same continuity test. Bike ran for an hour, I drove front and back 10 feet a few times, turned the idle screw up a bit to get the engine revving slightly higher. It would not cut out. It ran fairly consistent in terms of rpms judging by ear.

I think I need to go find a place close to home to ride. Nut sure what the police will say with me driving up and down the suburbs.

Thanks again for the advice!

*** Edit

I just stepped into my garage to find that gas has leaked all over the floor from the drain hose. I believe that points to my float bowl. Guess Im cleaning the carb now first.