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2006 rubicon no spark no neutral light

2093 Views 33 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  retro
Hello I am working on a 2006 Rubicon for a friend. The motor started giving trouble shifting and he was getting a temp warning light. When he shut the bike off it would not turn or pull over. I ended up removing the motor and completely dismantling it to find a 5mm bolt stuck in the oil pump. The bolt came from a divider inside the oil tank. Replaced the oil pump and put the engine back in.
Tried starting the engine today and no spark and the gear position does not read on the dash.
Looking for some help. Should the coil still spark without the neutral light being on
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Try unhooking your battery for a while and then hooking it back up. Did you use an OEM angle sensor or aftermarket junk?
It was OEM but used. I will try unhooking the battery
Now have a problem with code 11 again. Have done all the checks for code 11 and found nothing. When I plug the 5P connector back in on the ECM the 30 amp fues blows. Any way to test the ECM.
Are there any aftermarket electrical parts on the bike, anywhere? Ignition switch stock original? Wiring harnesses in good condition with no repairs/splices/hacks anywhere? Is everything plugged in?

You've got a dead short somewhere. Don't reconnect the battery until you find it.
It’s all OEM. The fuse blows when I plug in the angle sensor. I have tried another sensor and same thing. All wiring had been check and good. Even when the sensor is removed from the bike it will blow the fuse. Looking for help on this one. Please.
Done some more testing and connected a test light to fuse holder instead of the fuse to check for the dead short. With the sensor connected it goes to short for about 3 seconds when you turn the key on. Does not go to short with the sensor unplugged. If I turn the shaft in the sensor about 3/4 way and turn the key on there’s no short. How should the angle sensor work. I have it installed preloaded also.
Not getting much help with the post. Got to be someone out there that can help
Please explain, how did you jump the gear position switch? Cause if you make a mistake there...? Well, lets not get into that just yet. Have you downloaded and read the service manual yet?

My advice is to start with fixing your known issue correctly first. Fix that gear position switch. Undo any cobbles, splices or jumpers that you've done. Keep an eye out for a pinched or fried wire while doing that work. Ya gotta read and follow the service manual to work on that bike, so make that a priority. There are no shortcuts free of consequences.

We can't see or review whats happened, so most of this diagnosis is in your hands.

I'll try to follow along once per day if I can. Right now the site is logging me out constantly, so if you don't hear from me its because I've given up. Perhaps others can help ya better anyway...
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I replaced the gear position switch and that is working fine now.
The New problem is now I am blowing the ES motor fuse Shen I turn the key on.
If I unplug the angle sensor or the 21P black con Tom the ECM the fuse is fine.
Is the G/Y wire ground on the angle sensor?
I am getting the correct voltage from G/Y to B/R.
When I turn the key on the B/R goes to ground. Should this be happening. I have replaced the angle sensor so I am thinking the the ECM is gone.
Is the angle sensor that you put on it an OEM Honda sensor, or an amazon/ebay china knockoff? Are there any china parts on this bike? We need to know about them if there are any.

Unplug the angle sensor from the harness. Then, using your multimeter, check for continuity between each of the three terminals inside the sensor, to motor ground. There should be no continuity between any of those three terminals and ground. Stop right there if one of them is grounded and replace the angle sensor.

Resistance measurements between each of those three sensor terminals should be within the 1.6k-2.4k ohms spec as shown in the manual. See the attached image.

Now turn the key on and check for positive (+) voltage between the Black/Red wire in the angle sensor harness plug and motor ground. Put your red multimeter lead on the Black/Red wire terminal inside the harness connector and your black multimeter lead on motor ground. What is that voltage? Is it 5 volts positive?

Then remove your black multimeter lead from motor ground and place it on the Green/Yellow terminal inside the connector. What is that voltage? Is it less than 5 volts... how much less (or more) than was read in the previous test?

Now lets review your gear position switch tests... verify that it was installed right and that continuity is shown between each wire color pair, as the manual shows. Report those test results.

We'll need to add a couple more tests right here before moving on to the ECM test... so lets 1st check the ESP shift switches after unplugging them from the main harness. Using your multimeter check for continuity between wire color pairs inside the switches connector. There should only be continuity between wire pairs that are shown in the table relative to a shift switch position. Check all possible combinations to insure that there are no internal shorts in that switch assembly. Then check for continuity between each individual wire and frame ground. There must be none. If any of them show continuity to ground replace the switches assembly. Report back with those results.

Finally, perform the continuity tests as shown in the attachment for the mode switch.

I'll be back tomorrow night.


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Angle sensor is OEM and all tests are good with 5 volts position from B/R to motor ground and 4.99 from B/R to Y/G. Resistance test good and motor gear turns freely.

Gear position is installed correctly and all wires test fine.

All gear switches test good.
I did some more testing tonight and found that if I removed the 10 amp ignition fues the 30 amp es fuse was fine.
I used a test light in place of the fuse and it goes to ground for about 3 seconds after turning the key on. Same happened when I installed the 10 amp fuse. After I tried this a few times the 30 fuse didn’t blow anymore. I have no idea why.
Now I have a new problem. I am now getting code 4. I have done all the tests on the TP sensor and no problem found.

Tried to do the initial set up again and can get all the way to step 8 but motor does not turn. No voltage getting to the motor. Tested all wiring for the motor and all ok. Removed motor and took it apart all tested good. Connected motor to 12 volts. It turned but wires got hot after a few seconds of turning. Maybe it the motor that is causing the codes.
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Ya, it sounds like that shift motor is a problem. When you took the motor apart were the commutator (smooth copper?) and brushes in good condition? No evidence of arcing/pitting on the commutator? No brushes stuck in their holders? I'm wondering if it might be repairable...?
Looked good and I tested the motor internals. Why wouldn’t I be getting voltage on the motor wires during initial setting
Got no new ideas. Symptoms have changed for no apparent reason, so I'd be a fool to continue to troubleshoot this bike from a forum.... I'd need to put my own hands and my own eyeballs on it to help ya. I know its frustrating but there is nothing that I can do from here. When you find out whats going on I'd love to hear about it though.
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