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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone! Just looking for some help here. Took a ride yesterday (didn’t get in any significant mud/water) & washed it off today, started it up & have a cloud of white smoke. Didn’t notice any problems yesterday & still runs fine despite the smoke now. Any suggestions?
 

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Could just be water in the exhaust after washing it, have you left it to run for 20 mins or so to see if the ‘smoke’ clears?
 

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I agree could just be water in the exhaust
but I would also be checking my coolant levels
does the smoke at all smell sweet??


when washing, I always use a exhaust plug, takes the worry out of getting any in then and there cheap and simple to use!
 

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burning oil will be a blue-ish color smoke
burning coolant will be white -ish
as will water being burnt off inside a exhaust(condensation too)
have you checked you oil level?
HOW many miles and hours on this atv?
and the million dollar question, was it ever sunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’m not the original owner, I’ve only had it a little over a year but I personally haven’t sunk it. Changed oil roughly 8-10 hours ago. There’s no odometer so not completely sure. Also unless I’m mistaken this model just has a fan & no radiator/coolant. Should also add that I have zero experience with taking one of these apart so how difficult is a top end rebuild?
 

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Confirming for you, all 6 of the available Ranchers in 2004 were air cooled (with an oil cooler). No antifreeze in these.
 
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If it’s not loosing/burning any oil and not making any noises that make you think ‘ouch’ I would continue to use it gently, sometimes water in the exhaust takes a while to evaporate. My 300 took just under an hour (idling) once after I jet washed it off.
Give it a ride around and see if it clears.

Also, you can do a compression test which would give you an idea of the top end condition, I would also advise doing this.
 

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sorry, I don't keep track of what all yrs have air cooled and what have liquid cooling, so, my mistake here

BUT I second the DO a Compression test, if NOTHING else it will give you a base like on the motors condition, as since mo Hour meter or OD, it can be a motor that's seen a TON of use, or not
a compression test tells you if its Solid or not on compression
check now, run a few hours check again, and repeat down the road, and you will have a base line if falling or holding steady
its fast easy and simple to do so?
 

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It’s burning oil. Anyone have a preference on the top end rebuild kits on eBay?
G&H does a kit, you send yours to them, they send you everything back to do a tope end rebuild. down load the service manual from here, read it, learn it, do it !..lol.
 

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where are you located ?, maybe there is a member near you that could help you learn how to rebuild the top end.
 

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It’s burning oil. Anyone have a preference on the top end rebuild kits on eBay?
well keep this in mind for food for thought

BUT if its burning oil NOW,
the major question again is WHY
is it from a zillion miles and hours
or other HARD use that has simply worn out a top end

OR is it possible this atv was SUNK
as if the atv was SUNK< and TON"S of folks sink them anymore, WAY more than you think
and A TON of these folks, SINK a ATV< clean it up, flush motor a few times and then sell to some sucker that buys there story ONLY Grand MA used it to get her mail or what ever sad story they wish to dream up to make the sale happen!

as if they DID sink the motor, odds are there is CRAP in the motor and if you DO a top end and there is crap in motor, your new top end will be JUNK in a short amount of time!
being wasted $$$ on your part as well as time!

or EVEN if JUST a LOT of hard miles and or hours idling

there can be more worn out parts, as lots of miles and hours DON"T just wear top ends out!

timing chains , bearings and other parts can be bad, and again, the new top end can be great, but if rest of motor has worn parts, its a bandaid to soon to have other issue's

your atv, your money
but if it was me, I think I would want the motor broken down , looked at and CLEANED if needed and ALL parts worn replaced
do it right once and its good for a LONG time
do it half a$$ and you can be back in it very soon re doing ALL work you maybe just did or WORSE!
what is peace of mind worth to you?
might be worth asking yourself!
sellers today SUCK more than they don't!
 

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It’s burning oil. Anyone have a preference on the top end rebuild kits on eBay?
well keep this in mind for food for thought

BUT if its burning oil NOW,
the major question again is WHY
is it from a zillion miles and hours
or other HARD use that has simply worn out a top end

OR is it possible this atv was SUNK
as if the atv was SUNK< and TON"S of folks sink them anymore, WAY more than you think
and A TON of these folks, SINK a ATV< clean it up, flush motor a few times and then sell to some sucker that buys there story ONLY Grand MA used it to get her mail or what ever sad story they wish to dream up to make the sale happen!

as if they DID sink the motor, odds are there is CRAP in the motor and if you DO a top end and there is crap in motor, your new top end will be JUNK in a short amount of time!
being wasted $$$ on your part as well as time!

or EVEN if JUST a LOT of hard miles and or hours idling

there can be more worn out parts, as lots of miles and hours DON"T just wear top ends out!

timing chains , bearings and other parts can be bad, and again, the new top end can be great, but if rest of motor has worn parts, its a bandaid to soon to have other issue's
Wow, GREAT response, Mrbb, but now I'm paranoid. The top end on my 2014 420FM was replaced but no other engine inspection or work. Could you please elaborate on what "symptoms" to expect if there is other engine damage. I assume the timing would make it run badly and bearings would make a knocking noise? Maybe I am asking a question that has too many answers, but general information would be most helpful. I think this might help the original poster to make a wise decision about his repair.
 

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well since inside the motor are wear parts, its not really possible to inspect them without seeing them, and checking while opened up
but worn bearings can make noises , but at the time there making noises, its already doing damage IMO
timing chains stretch, so, as they do they can jump time or worse break
grit in motor from both water dirt from sinking, OR just debris from parts failing can cause catastrophic failure, think HOLE In motor when a rod pushes thru the case

NOW< things you can do, is, well again, take a compression test
a few hours iof riding, take again, and repeat, it will give you a base line on if motor is staying steady or dropping in compression
a new top end on a motor with crap in it, will show low of compression rather fast, NOT huge drops(could have them however)
but will be a dropping curve, how much crap, how fast it drops

a HEALTHY motor will hold a pretty decent level like number for a LONG time
thus WHY honda's are known for LONG life

if as timing chain is bad, bearings bad, its HARD to know till they fail if you again don't inspect them

valuves too can go bad !
again, inspection is what lets you know
BUYING used is a gamble, some times you win, some times you loose, sellers LIE
 

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It’s burning oil. Anyone have a preference on the top end rebuild kits on eBay?
To piggy back on comments by mrbb, the possibility exist this unit may have been sunk previously. Since you are going to redo the top end, I would break the engine apart, clean and inspect everything before installing a new top end. I know taking it apart will be a pain, but it will give you an opportunity to clean/inspect everything. A friendly reminder, remember to put the correct oils (break in and correct oil afterwards in the unit) and enjoy many great years on the Honda.
 

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It’s burning oil. Anyone have a preference on the top end rebuild kits on eBay?
To piggy back on comments by mrbb, the possibility exist this unit may have been sunk previously. Since you are going to redo the top end, I would break the engine apart, clean and inspect everything before installing a new top end. I know taking it apart will be a pain, but it will give you an opportunity to clean/inspect everything. A friendly reminder, remember to put the correct oils (break in and correct oil afterwards in the unit) and enjoy many great years on the Honda.
as you know, I will agree on you and mrb when it comes to a sunken motor !. BUT !, I know all to well, every member that comes on here does not have the skill level it takes to tear a motor completely apart, and be able to put it all back together, and it run ?!..lol. other than letting a dealership do it ?, they think a few good oil changes will solve the problem ?, when it really won't in the long run..AS THIS HAS BEEN PROVEN TIME AFTER TIME ON HERE !..LOL.
 

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I would go with what I know. The bike has some age on it and no one is clear on past oil types and changes. I wouldn't instantly think the worst however, no evidence of what to expect. I would simply go with flushing oil and seafoam at least twice. Drain the oil in a clean container and inspect. If I'm not flushing anything alarming, do the top-end and call it a day. Of course this is my opinion and what I would do myself based on what you have said.
 

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@Corner3 what exact model Rancher is this anyway?
 

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I would go with what I know. The bike has some age on it and no one is clear on past oil types and changes. I wouldn't instantly think the worst however, no evidence of what to expect. I would simply go with flushing oil and seafoam at least twice. Drain the oil in a clean container and inspect. If I'm not flushing anything alarming, do the top-end and call it a day. Of course this is my opinion and what I would do myself based on what you have said.
well if a machine is smoking, which is NOT normal
it says, one of two things
one its got a LOT of miles/hours/hard use and things are worn out
which also means to em ODDS are HIGH, if top end patys are worn out from LOTS of hours and miles
so are many other parts below the top end, as they ALL seen the same amount fo wear and tear

OR the motor was sunk and dirt and crap ATE the top end making it smoke
in which case Flushing the motor is, a GAMBLE
some get lucky , MANY Don't
SO< if your a water riding deep mud guy, then flushing is more likely the better option, run it till it needs bigger repair work, have to pay to play right??
OR if your a guy that wants it to last for many many many yrs, it might be wiser to open it up(if have skills or pay to have done)
and have it done right, and then its good for 20+ yrs of life if you care for it right!

this is the issue with buying used many times, you look at something, it looks nice, story being SOLD is , it was babied all its life, driving by 10 yr old "BLAH BLAH BLAH" just easy life
when it was maybe a all lie's
and then you buy it, drive it a few days or hours and BOOM< its smoking or worse
the lie's then show themselves and you now have to make a call, fix or BAIL
pending your skill level, and or wallet ,m tends to answer this call
as options again are really FIX< or run into ground till dies, OR Sell it and try again

fixing it RIGHT< leaves you in the end with a solid ATV you KNOW is fixed right and should last a LONG time

NO amount of flushing will be 100% successful in removing crap inside a motor
, it just doesn't happen it might remove enough to run a while, and for some a LONG time
but its a GAMBLE
 
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