Yes the 4 wheeler has been sunk, i didnt know that your rod was not suppose to have side to side play and thats my stupidity for not knocking or check with you guys. It has been ran completely out of oil some times due to it smoked alot and when i was riding i would forget to check it. No boring just a litfke honeing to the new jug. I don't know why i never listen to shadtree he has been through this kinda stuff more than i have, but i just wanted to slap it together in order to make a ride with a girl on the mountain. I have a man who owns a atv shop near me who is going to help me slip the cases and take it all apart and do it right for a change. Should i order a new crank and rod or just send it off to mr crankshaft and see if its fixable? Btw when i was rebuilding it tjis past time i noticed some heat wear on the rod but my dad said its kinda norman so we went with it, my mistake for not takeing it out to begin with. This time its going to be done right, and seeing about a cam and high comp piston.
2004 350 rancher knocking
2004 350 rancher 4x4: the motor started knocking, sounds like it is the connecting rod , from what iv heard rancher's are bad about the wrist pin hole getting wallered out creating alot of play. I would like some opinions on should i just get a connecting rod done to it or get both crank and connecting rod?i was going to send it off to mr crankshaft but wanted some feedback if they were any good or not. Also topend has about 20 hrs on it if not less and started smoking agian any ideas?
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Already has a new timing chain, tentioner and guides. Hondabond havs 3 tubes of it but yeah i completely understand were your coming from, my dad says the exact same stuff because he knows how it is, thats all he use to do until he stopped going through mud. Im just going to send my whole crank, and see what needs to be done, if its just the rod then do the rod if its crank and rod looks like im going to be rebuilding a crank or finding a used one. My shop class at school has a broing machine so all that can be done. But mrcrankshafts prices are cheap for what all they do so im going to let them figure out the bottom end.
Why a bored topend? I have a good cylinder and piston with stock bore just need new rings because i lost one when taking it off. No scratches or lips on it.
Okay, so boring it is. I have 3 diffrent cylinders should i try to go with the one that needs less boring?
Iv understand the boring. Alot of the work i can do at school as like i said earlier webhave a machine class which has boring machines, lays, presses,etc... I am going to pull the motor sometime this week and hope that it is not too bad.
So i have to buy a new timin chain and tentioner and what not when i tear it down?
Lol, iv had it close to splitting the cases last time. My only trouble is organizing the bolts and where they went.
Thats a good idea i have cardboard boxes im probably going to use and do the same thing. Hopefully i can get this all done before newyears
I could have it done quickly but i want to do it right and double check the clearances om everything so maybe i can avoid this again. When buying a new crank do i need to buy a new balancer abd bearings for the balancer or what? Im better off with buying a new oem crank
I was just wondering, idk how to check if the balancer is bad or not but im going with the new crank and rod its $339 on partzilla. Hopefully have the motor out tomorrow and going to clean it a good couple times with the parts washer because i know there is sand and grit in the cases for sure.
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