2004 350 rancher knocking

5737 Views 29 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Manny, Oct 21, 2017

YellowRancher

Discussion Starter · Oct 10, 2017

2004 350 rancher 4x4: the motor started knocking, sounds like it is the connecting rod , from what iv heard rancher's are bad about the wrist pin hole getting wallered out creating alot of play. I would like some opinions on should i just get a connecting rod done to it or get both crank and connecting rod?i was going to send it off to mr crankshaft but wanted some feedback if they were any good or not. Also topend has about 20 hrs on it if not less and started smoking agian any ideas?

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shadetree

· #3 · Oct 10, 2017

if I remember right ?, you rebuilt the top end awhile back, correct ?, and we told you if the crank was bad ?, been sunk ?, that the motor would need to be split, and cleaned out. you are correct, the trx350 ranchers just don't hold water on their crank rods. yes, you can replace the rod, or, just go all out, and replace the whole crank. your top end did not last because I bet the rod was bad, and it wore out the new rings which prob was not bored out, and a new piston kit installed ?. you can't just toss a top end at a motor, and think it will be good to run ?!, it does not work like that

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shadetree

· #5 · Oct 12, 2017

YellowRancher said:
Yes the 4 wheeler has been sunk, i didnt know that your rod was not suppose to have side to side play and thats my stupidity for not knocking or check with you guys. It has been ran completely out of oil some times due to it smoked alot and when i was riding i would forget to check it. No boring just a litfke honeing to the new jug. I don't know why i never listen to shadtree he has been through this kinda stuff more than i have, but i just wanted to slap it together in order to make a ride with a girl on the mountain. I have a man who owns a atv shop near me who is going to help me slip the cases and take it all apart and do it right for a change. Should i order a new crank and rod or just send it off to mr crankshaft and see if its fixable? Btw when i was rebuilding it tjis past time i noticed some heat wear on the rod but my dad said its kinda norman so we went with it, my mistake for not takeing it out to begin with. This time its going to be done right, and seeing about a cam and high comp piston.

bluing on the crank is normal. don't waste your money on a high comp piston, not worth it, you won't gain much, if anything ?!. it's cheaper to replace the rod than the whole crank, but its faster to replace the whole crank. splitting the cases is best, and doing it right !. soooooooo, with all that said, here is what you need to do, buy a complete engine gasket kit, complete engine oil seal kit, new cam chain ( D.I.D ), split the cases, clean it out very well, a tube of yamabond or hondabond where there is no gasket for sealing it up. have the cylinder mic'ed and bored to next size piston, buy a piston kit to fit it, put her all back together..and maybe stay out of deep crap ?, and it should last you a very long time, if not ?, then you will be right back where you are right now, with a broken atv that needs another 200-500 dollars put back into it

. old saying goes, if yer gonna play ?, then your gonna pay !..lol. I am not trying to sound like a jerk here bro ?, I am giving you straight up facts on how to make that atv last.

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shadetree

· #19 · Oct 17, 2017

YellowRancher said:
So i have to buy a new timin chain and tentioner and what not when i tear it down?

nope, just the cam chain should be bought new, adjusters last a long time on the ranchers. soooooooooo, you need either a whole new crank ( or a new connecting rod pressed on ) ?, piston kit to match the cylinder that will get bored over, all new gaskets ( complete engine set ), all new oil seals ( best to do this while your tearing the motor apart ), new cam chain, then learn how to not only take it all apart ?, BUT TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AS WELL !..LOL.

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shadetree

· #21 · Oct 17, 2017

YellowRancher said:
Lol, iv had it close to splitting the cases last time. My only trouble is organizing the bolts and where they went.

what I do for my bolts ?, I cut a length of a 2x4 about 2 ft long, drilled a line of holes across it from one end to the other, wrote at the end of the holes where the bolts came from, example, front cover, rear cover ( stator ), or pull starter. mark the first bolt hole on the matching case hole with a number 1, then go clockwise as you take them out, and put them in the holes on the 2x4, pretty simple to keep up with every one of them.

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shadetree

· #23 · Oct 17, 2017

YellowRancher said:
Thats a good idea i have cardboard boxes im probably going to use and do the same thing. Hopefully i can get this all done before newyears

ya got 2 months, its gonna take ya longer than that to rebuild the motor ??..holy crap, I've pulled my '05 trx500fm motor out, split the cases, changed out the bad gears, put it back together, back in the frame, and running in 9 hours !..lol.

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shadetree

· #26 · Oct 18, 2017

Jeepwm69 said:
shadetree said:

YellowRancher said:

Thats a good idea i have cardboard boxes im probably going to use and do the same thing. Hopefully i can get this all done before newyears

Click to expand...

ya got 2 months, its gonna take ya longer than that to rebuild the motor ??..holy crap, I've pulled my '05 trx500fm motor out, split the cases, changed out the bad gears, put it back together, back in the frame, and running in 9 hours !..lol.

Click to expand...

Bet you were slap worn out after that 9 hours though!

nah, 9 hours is cake walk for me bro !, its when I get around 12-18 hours on my bad leg that starts to get me !..lol.

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shadetree

· #28 · Oct 19, 2017

YellowRancher said:
I could have it done quickly but i want to do it right and double check the clearances om everything so maybe i can avoid this again. When buying a new crank do i need to buy a new balancer abd bearings for the balancer or what? Im better off with buying a new oem crank

don't know why you would need a balancer ?, unless yours is bad ?, the cases will have the bearings in them, I hardly ever change those out, but putting a new crank in is best !. unless you just want to have a new rod pressed on the old crank ?. but time and money wise, it's faster to buy and install a whole new crank. and getting the old crank bearings out might not be easy ?, only one is pressed onto the crank, the other is pressed in the case, if you can get the bearing out of the case ?, then yes, replace it with new

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