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2003 Honda foreman 500 slippage???

3169 Views 25 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Twistedwrist
Hey guys and gals,
Just a question about my 2003 Honda foreman 500
Yesterday I had the trailer hooked up and loaded a bunch of firewood into it( nothing more than I normally do)
And started to drive in low gear , the rear tire of the trailer was up against a rock, I tried to give it more has to see if it wouldn't roll over the rock like I normally do...all of a sudden as I'm accelerating, I hear what sounds like a winch being pulled on free something was slipping....never heard anything like this before and have no clue what it is...I unhooked the trailer and went to get my other bike and as soon as I took the trailer off the bike road first thought was the gears in the front diff were screwed...any ideas?
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I would check the oil pressure before making any other decisions. The oil pressure test procedure is in the FSM. Clean and proper motor oil is imperative for those Hondamatics to function and last... changing the oil often buys you a lot of time.

Inspect your drain oil each time you change it. Also inspect the oil filter & screen each time you have it open. If you ever see any tiny metal fragments in the drain oil, filter or screen it is getting close to failure....
You don't need to use Honda branded oil just make sure it is certified for use with wet clutches, JASO MA or JASO MA2 rated. Great that you've been changing the oil often... sounds like you've done about all you could for it. Look really good for metal in that drain oil and filter... if the angle bearing is coming apart in the trans there will be lots of metal...

If the oil pressure tests low you'll have to pull the side cover off and clean the garbage off from oil pump pickup screen. That may buy you a bit more time if its failing. But not much.
Did you take the oil filter apart? What was in there, anything?
I always open them up to analyze the stuff they caught, if any. Been a filter snoop since I was old enough to cut them open, even made my own machine to remove the tin from my racing filters, so they could be opened without disturbing the contents. Throwing them away without analyzing them is the same as throwing all my investment money away... ain't happenin' LOL

If you still have that oil filter you just took out, open it up carefully over a bright white absorbent cloth and snoop... you are throwing away evidence and knowledge that you can't find anywhere else on the planet!

A small magnet is handy to quickly sort out the ferrous from non-ferrous stuff after its been dissected. Look for the various colored fragments & chips under magnification and light if you can. Bronze, mild steel, chromium, iron, stainless, paper, cork, aluminum, plastic, etc. You won't need to mess with acids or nothing... just look it all over and identify things... look for patterns... such as quite a few chips & flakes of a certain material present, might indicate a certain part is coming apart, or is about to.

Make it a habit... your Hondamatic filters will alert you to pending troubles long before anything ever comes flying apart. :)
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I use magnets on some of my old motors too. Those good neodymium magnets come in all shapes and sizes on the fLeebay. A wafer shaped one can be added to almost any drain plug with slow-setting JB-weld after roughing them up with sandpaper.

The FB guy might have been a paid corporate troll...? I've been seeing them for many years now working forums & youtube offering "help & reassuring advice", "tutorials" and "how-to videos" that can only insure the problem is neglected & gets worse, or gets purposely broken or permanently destroyed by following their advice or repair tutorial... which result in the hapless victim(s) spending a fortune to buy new. Its very effective when the audience is non-technical or simply overly trusting, which many people are... Marketing companies employ them on contract from industry groups in large numbers. There are some smaller companies & one-man shops that do it on their own too. Some guys set up a few sockpuppet accounts on forums then make posts and start having "conversations" which in reality is just one monkey making a move on your wallet. A paid hit & run monkey can troll 200 forums a day and still find time to make a couple "how-to" vids or tutorials. Watch out for these types of behaviors & patterns on the 'net...

Did you find time to check the oil pressure yet?
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Yeah thats my guess... thats a lot of metal there in just 3 folds of paper. They look like chromium steel chunks from a grade 10 or better, ball or roller bearing. Can you find any whitish-yellow/browned/burnt plastic (likely will appear as darkened filaments sort of uneven & chunky looking along their lengths) in there?

Whatever it is shedding those bright flakes is getting real close to coming apart. Next time you open a filter those chunks will be a lot bigger I imagine. Of course, there may not be a next time...

Do you know an old-school craftsman machinist? If so, he can fix it for you.

Well, sounds like you've met a monkey alright. He wasn't very intelligent or you wouldn't have pegged him right away.... so hes probably a pool monkey. The dumbest monkeys are never allowed to free-lance, they get added to tiered pools of monkeys who get simple assignments handed to them and usually get paid per post + word count typed. They number about 2/3 of the total employed generally, they work part time on & off throughout the day/night whenever they wish to log on. The free-lancers are the most effective (destructive) trolls cause they are highly skilled... AND intelligent enough to work unsupervised, or be spoon fed.
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Well, I would tear it down and fix it myself but I'm not you... and I already know an exceptional machinist. I'd estimate my costs to be about $150-$200 or so total in parts & labor & supplies, not counting the big box of adult beverage I'd have for my old friend when I pulled into his driveway. :)

I'd guess that if you can tear it down, thoroughly clean it out, replace the oil pump if necessary and reassemble it competently, you'll find a machinist equipped to lathe on hardened steel, not faraway.

Its your call...
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