[Passinthru82]

So I bought a 2002 rancher 350 fe used with 220hrs. So far ive had nothing but problems. I was letting it idle to see if the cooling fan would kick on, and noticed fuel running out the carb overflow. Safe to say the float or needle is hanging up. It also leeched a bunch of gas through the intake and down into the case, so now looking at a couple oil changes as well. I was looking into aftermarket carbs and the Caltric carbs seem to have pretty good reviews. I was curious if anyone had 1st hand experience. I know OEM is probably the best, and will rebuild the OEM, but was hoping the Caltric would be good enough to get me by for awhile. I will also put an inline filter in if anyone can recommend a good one that works. I am on a tight budget and this thing is turning into a money pit.

 

[fishfiles]

from my personal experiences after market carbs all are a waste of money ----- if you don't want to pay the price of new and don't have the original carb any more , you would do better going to Power Sports Nation.com and pick up a used OEM carb and clean it , they will give you 30 days to return it if it doesn't work out for you

 

[shadetree]

first, i'm sorry for your loss...lol. second, the trx350 ranchers are the worst for leaking carbs..period !. third: take fishes advice, and don't bother with an after market carb, they are junk !!!. buy a carb kit from shindy, rebuild the oem carb, and pray that the thing will be fixed ?!. i've yet to work on, or see an oem trx350 rancher carb that never leaked ??..they just are not good at all !.

 

[retro]

You'll need to stick with a 100% OEM carb. Those Caltric reviews are from shills... they're all fake. Buy a Genuine Shindy carb kit (not relabeled ebay/amazon china knockoff) or better yet, just buy a new OEM Honda float valve and other needed parts. Look up carb threads and posted advice & pics shared by @Goober here... his is the level of clean and attention to detail that ya gotta achieve to be successful.

Rancher 350 carbs are famous for leaking past the float valve, but with a little extra effort you can make them as good and reliable as any other carb.

 

[Foreman_450]

Wow wow wow. lol. I had a 350 Rancher that I could not keep it from leaking, messed with it and messed with it because I had read that the cheap caltric carbs are junk. Finally broke down and thought... it’s $30 bucks... what do I have to lose. That was 6 months ago and the bike it still running great to this day! Literally unboxed it, installed it, and it has started great every sense then even after sitting a while. Been using them every sense, on 450s and such. But I will say if you can successfully rebuid the oem, go that route, or at least try.

 

[Jeepwm69]

I would get an OEM carb. You MIGHT get lucky with aftermarket, but much more likely not.

I don't know why the 350 Rancher carbs leak so much, but every one I've seen leaks.

 

[shadetree]

I would get an OEM carb. You MIGHT get lucky with aftermarket, but much more likely not.

I don't know why the 350 Rancher carbs leak so much, but every one I've seen leaks.

same here !!. they musta used carbs from china on them when they built them ??..like you, i've yet....too this day !!, seen or had my hands on a trx350 rancher where the carb DID NOT LEAK !!..LOL. design flaw ?, bad float needle seats ?, junk float needles ?..who knows ?!!. what I do know is ?..well...THEY SUCK !..LOL.

 

[retro]

Oxide layers on the float valve tip and the seat cause them to start leaking. Once you remove the hard aluminum & brass oxide layer from each part they work perfectly. Some seats get so difficult to clean that ya gotta cut through the hard layer with a pointed stone, but once they are free of oxides they are good as new... and don't cost ya nothin' but a couple hours of time.

Buying china garbage cuts all our throats... and swapping parts is not always the smartest way for a mechanic to avoid having to fix something that needs the most fixin'! Keep that lazy habit and someday we'll all wake up to a world consisting of parts-exchangers pretending to be skilled technicians... completely skill-less, like mindless robots. Nothing ever gets fixed by those types... because they don't ever take on anything that challenges them to learn.

Thats my .02 cents.

 

[Passinthru82]

Thanks for the replies. I intend to rebuild the OEM, but my idea behind trying one of the caltric carbs was just to buy myself some time. Ive already spent more time and money working on it than riding it. Been pretty discouraged by it really. 1st time ive had one in about 20 years and cant keep it rolling. With low hours and looking at it i thought it was a decent deal when I got it, but its quickly prooved me wrong. I plan to pull the tank, replace the petcock, all the lines, install a in line filter, hopefully fix the carb, and maybe have it run for an hour or two.

 

[Passinthru82]

Also anyone have pics of their in line fuel filter set up? I work at a major mower manufacturer and all the filters we use look to be too big for the space there is.

 

[shadetree]

Also anyone have pics of their in line fuel filter set up? I work at a major mower manufacturer and all the filters we use look to be too big for the space there is.

don't have a pic, but I know there is enough room between the heat shield and carb to install an inline fuel filter.

 

[retro]

See if this helps Passinthru82:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/new-member-introductions/124904-wyoming-rider.html#post1244510

My Rancher carb was as bad or worse (tank, fuel gauge, petcock & strainer was too) than yours after sitting for over 10 years with fuel in it. I only had to invest $11 (I had the solvent on hand already) into the entire fuel system to renew it. As for a fuel filter, the 86-89 TRX350/350D filters look like they'd fit great on a 350 Rancher. I haven't bothered to try one yet though.

 

[retro]

Don't be discouraged, but once you get the fuel system perfect again you'll need to go through the entire bike to catch up on the lubrication and maintenance needs. The bike is 16 years old and is very needy... its on its last legs right now, unless you stop to freshen all of the lubes and seals right away. That means fresh grease in wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods & swingarm bearings, change diff oils, motor oil & brake fluid, lube cables, adjust valves and clutch, service the brakes, dielectric grease all harness plugs and grounds, prep/lube all components in the ES shift system, etc. Everything that moves requires your immediate attention. You might have gotten a great deal on the bike, but you also have a lot of work ahead of you if you hope to preserve your investment. If you need any help just hollar.

 

[Passinthru82]

Could anyone give me the shindy carb kit number I want to make sure I order the right one. Ive already replaced wheel bearings, brake cylinders, brake, and differential fluid. Checked the tie rod and ball joints. The valves dont seem to be ticking or anything. I am going to drain the fuel system and oil today and let them drain good overnight then start on what I can tomorrow. Wont get to the carb till this weekend probably.

 

[shadetree]

here ya go ----> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindy-Car...ash=item520ed1934c:g:qdMAAOSwq-VbeY22&vxp=mtr .

 

[Passinthru82]

Perfect. Thank you. Now any secret to getting the petcock and fuel guage bolts out without jacking the tank up. I swear not one thing will go smoothly.

 

[shadetree]

Perfect. Thank you. Now any secret to getting the petcock and fuel guage bolts out without jacking the tank up. I swear not one thing will go smoothly.

never had any problems with getting the fuel gauge bolts out ?, but I have with the fuel tank petcock bolts !..lol. not sure who was the dummy that thought nuts pressed into plastic would hold ?, but they need to have a chat with !..lol. spray some pb blaster on the petcock bolts, and pray they are not over tightened !!. i've had them just turn in the tank when trying to remove the bolts, and its not a good day when this takes place..lol. its not like you can take some heat from a propane torch to them ya know !..lol. it's really a hit or miss getting those bolts out to be honest.

 

[shadetree]

I will give ya this tip for trying to get the bolts out if the nuts just turn in the tank ?, it may or may not work for you ?, but it has with me a couple times. try taking a flat blade screw driver, wedge it between the nut and the tank, to keep the nut from spinning ?, again..it may or may not work if this happens ?, but worth a shot !.

 

[Jeepwm69]

I use an impact now to take petcock bolts out. It will snap them loose without spinning the nutserts.

Get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter, then put the 8mm socket on the 1/4".

Haven't messed one up since I started doing it that way.

 

[Passinthru82]

Okay, I got one out fine, the other feels like it is very close to spinning so ive got it soaking in pb blaster. If it ends up spinning is there any hope of fixing it without having to buy a new tank? Im not sure whats behing the inserts or do they go into the open tank?