[Trailfreak]

2001 Honda Rancher ES 4x4 to 4x4 and 4x2 Selectable Front Differential Swap Project. I’m swapping a differential from a 2004, 400AT Rancher into my 2001 Rancher 350 ES, plus a few more parts that are part of the swap for a complete installation.

This project is a spinoff from Retro’s Creamsicle Orange Project. A lot of what I’m doing in terms of the differential swap was covered in his project’s post, I’m just trying to do what he did on my machine.

I’m doing this swap because it’s difficult to turn the front wheels and most of trail riding I do I don’t need 4x4. Also, because it’s a great project to do at this time of the year and I want to learn more.

I’m following Retro’s advice and getting his help. I read most of his Creamsicle Orange tread, great information. If you are thinking of doing this to your Rancher 350, you should read his tread.

It’s taken a while, but I’ve purchased most, if not all of the parts I need.

I thought I would just do a video on the project status and the issues that I’m having. BTW: I found a new location on the atv for Retro’s supplied electronics gismo. Same location as in my video but different attachment, I’ll post about that later.
I’ve uploaded the video to YouTube here is the link:

I’m also planning to do a final how to YouTube video of the conversion. I’ll post that at the end when I’m all done, it’s going to take time to finish the project, edit and post.

 

[Jeepwm69]

I'm having to replace the crank in my kid's 350 that I did this front diff swap on, so I haven't had a chance to put Retro's gizmo in yet. Curious to see how you mount it.

I probably ought to nab an extra front diff while they're cheap. As word of this spreads demand for 400AT front diffs will go up and thus prices will as well.

On the light, I drilled the hole bigger and put the socket in from the top.

I like your + and - power distribution blocks too.

 

[Trailfreak]

I'm having to replace the crank in my kid's 350 that I did this front diff swap on, so I haven't had a chance to put Retro's gizmo in yet. Curious to see how you mount it.

I probably ought to nab an extra front diff while they're cheap. As word of this spreads demand for 400AT front diffs will go up and thus prices will as well.

On the light, I drilled the hole bigger and put the socket in from the top.

I like your + and - power distribution blocks too.

I’m thinking of mounting the gizmo up top behind the steering column/in front of the gas tank under the dash (see photos). It fits well there. I cut the little knob off on the steel plate. It fits under the knob in the space. I ordered light bar mounting brackets that will go on the ¾” dia. frame to connect steel plate brackets to. I think the rubber in the brackets will minimize vibration on the gizmo and the location is high, dry and away from the wheels and stuff flying off. I’m going to see if it works. Retro selected a different location, but said to look for other places to put it. I’ll post more photos as I get the gizmo mounted.

I was thinking the same about everyone buying all the available 400 front differentials. I just checked and they are going for over $120. Mine was only $70 and it’s in good shape from what I can tell so far.

At this point I’m probably going to drill a bigger hole in the dash cover and pull the rubber bulb piece through for the 4x4 little light. The only other thing I could do if I don’t drill a bigger hole is to glue the light to the rubber.

 

[retro]

Hey, great work! You have everything lined up and looking good! I like your power & grounds distribution idea, it makes your install really clean and neat.

On that 4x4 indicator light, I just glued the lens into the plastic display shroud using 3M weatherstrip adhesive (takes a day or two to cure), then slid the rubber light socket over the back of the lens and glued that boot to the lens using Ultra black gasket maker. Its what I had on hand... but any good glue that will stick to ABS plastic should work on that indicator lens.

You found a great location to mount the gizmo too. Very professional...

Thanks for sharing your project with us!

 

[retro]

The heatsink was intended to be bolted directly onto the steel frame, so the frame of the bike would dissipate the heat away from the heatsink. So, if you mount the gizmo in rubber isolators it would be a good idea to monitor the aluminum heatsink temp while in 4WD to make sure it is not overheating. 15 minutes or so should be plenty of time...? If you can touch the heatsink without getting your fingers seriously burned after 15 minutes its gonna be all good.

The higher you adjust the clutch coil voltage, the less heat the voltage regulator will produce, so you might be fine mounting it in rubber. It is untested in rubber at this time though. I have mine adjusted to 9 volts and it gets hot (maybe 120-130 degrees F max, or so?) but doesn't burn my skin if I touch the heatsink. Adjusted down to 6 volts it gets hotter, but is still well within the 125c degrees max temp that the regulator is spec'd for.

I also readjusted the tie rods on my bike after the install. The 2wd Rancher is spec'd for a lot less toe-out than the 4wd Rancher is, so I toed mine in in steps and tested it several times in various conditions/surfaces, including deep rutted trails and asphalt. I finally settled on 1/16 inch toed-in on mine, measured between the inside of the front rims at their largest diameter. Steering got way easier at that point.... it tracks straight and true (look ma, no hands! LOL), does not toss ya in the ditch when navigating deep ruts and it is very nimble and still turns sharp circles. My neighbor used it for herding his cows & calves and was raving about it.

Win-win in my opinion. It works equally well toed-in whether in 2wd or 4wd, can barely tell the difference in it. My new tires are loving the toe-in too... toe-out destroys them quick riding on hard clay and asphalt. Hope you try it and like it too.

 

[Trailfreak]

The heatsink was intended to be bolted directly onto the steel frame, so the frame of the bike would dissipate the heat away from the heatsink. So, if you mount the gizmo in rubber isolators it would be a good idea to monitor the aluminum heatsink temp while in 4WD to make sure it is not overheating. 15 minutes or so should be plenty of time...? If you can touch the heatsink without getting your fingers seriously burned after 15 minutes its gonna be all good.

The higher you adjust the clutch coil voltage, the less heat the voltage regulator will produce, so you might be fine mounting it in rubber. It is untested in rubber at this time though. I have mine adjusted to 9 volts and it gets hot (maybe 120-130 degrees F max, or so?) but doesn't burn my skin if I touch the heatsink. Adjusted down to 6 volts it gets hotter, but is still well within the 125c degrees max temp that the regulator is spec'd for.

I also readjusted the tie rods on my bike after the install. The 2wd Rancher is spec'd for a lot less toe-out than the 4wd Rancher is, so I toed mine in in steps and tested it several times in various conditions/surfaces, including deep rutted trails and asphalt. I finally settled on 1/16 inch toed-in on mine, measured between the inside of the front rims at their largest diameter. Steering got way easier at that point.... it tracks straight and true (look ma, no hands! LOL), does not toss ya in the ditch when navigating deep ruts and it is very nimble and still turns sharp circles. My neighbor used it for herding his cows & calves and was raving about it.

Win-win in my opinion. It works equally well toed-in whether in 2wd or 4wd, can barely tell the difference in it. My new tires are loving the toe-in too... toe-out destroys them quick riding on hard clay and asphalt. Hope you try it and like it too.

Retro, I’m still trying to figure this out, but the idea is to support the gizmo with metal straps on the front, that would be attached to the light brackets that will go around the ¾” dia. frame tubes on either side of the handlebar turning shaft (see the photos below). The light brackets that I’ve purchased have rubber pieces that go between the frame tubes and the inside of the bracket (see photo above). The back end of the gizmo will sit on the white plastic shield under the tank. There is also a steel tube frame cross member right under the white tank shield for support. I’ll also secure at that location.
No rubber touches the heatsink and the heatsink is right above the fan shield open to air for cooling. I’m also thinking when the fan goes on, it will draw the heat away from the heatsink and pass cool air by it.

I will adjust the tie rods after I’m done, thanks. I adjusted them neutral recently because they were way toe out and I thought that was the problem with difficult turning but it wasn’t.

I will do the same with gluing the 4x4 light to the plastic cover then glue the rubber bulb piece.

 

[Trailfreak]

While I’m waiting for my light brackets I cleaned my carburetor tonight. It was 20 degrees in my shed and got it up to 34 with my little electric heater, by the time I left. It’s been two years since I’ve last cleaned my carburetor and look at what I found inside, plenty of gas gel.

I always use Shell super gas and always put StarTron enzyme fuel treatment and I still get gel. I’ve done some research and I think Citco gas does not have ethanol. In my state, by law they have to post on the pumps if gas has ethanol and I noticed there are no ethanol signs on the pumps at Citco gas station near where I work. Up in Maine where I ride the Citco gas station off the atv trail has super gas with no ethanol. I’m going to try to use Citco gas, but would just have to drive home with the gas in the trunk for 50 minutes in heavy traffic where I’ve totaled two cars in the past.

 

[retro]

You've found a great little place to mount, I like it. No worries about heat either with that mount... I think it'll be very happy there. Carb looks good again but its a bummer ya gotta tolerate the ethanol scam, ehh..? :-(

 

[Trailfreak]

Today I installed the light brackets that secure the gizmo to the frame. I used easy to bend galvanized metal straps, bolts and nuts to make the connection between the gizmo and the brackets. It seems like this location is working out well. If I need to adjust the voltage I’ll just undo the bolts and pull it out. I’m ready to finish the wiring.

I also installed the cleaned carburetor and new handlebar grips I had around, the old ones were completely worn. I was able to save the electrical heating part on the bottom of the grips by pealing and cutting all the rubber off. They look like they were a one piece system. I’ll find out if they still work once I hook up the power.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Looks like a great spot to mount it.

 

[Trailfreak]

Hi Jeep, yes, it’s working out to be a great spot to mount the gizmo. Yesterday, I moved it forward about 3/8” because the gas tank was touching it a little and it’s no longer doing that. I’m just about done and everything is working, just need to put everything back. Great to have the selectable 4x4 and the light for it. Thanks for the help.

I’ll try to upload a video on the progress. It’s not letting me right now.

 

[Trailfreak]

Update.

 

[fishfiles]

Retro's Gizmo !!!! --- I miss Retro already .

I just went the totally opposite direction that you took , my 450 had electric shift front diff , it had a mind of it's own and started disconnecting for some unknown reason , electrical problems not doubt , I went to the full time front diff with a 4x2 kick out , only bad thing about it was I lost the 4x4 indicator light

 

[Trailfreak]

Retro's Gizmo !!!! --- I miss Retro already .

I just went the totally opposite direction that you took , my 450 had electric shift front diff , it had a mind of it's own and started disconnecting for some unknown reason , electrical problems not doubt , I went to the full time front diff with a 4x2 kick out , only bad thing about it was I lost the 4x4 indicator light

Fish, I’ve seen what your doing on your 450 build and can understand you doing a non electric 424 4x2 kick out, you can’t have your 4x4 not work because of the muddy trails in your area. I knew I would be taking a chance going with the electrical differential swap but I don’t have to worry as much as you, trails in New England aren’t muddy, some are steep but I bail on some of those if I can. I mostly need the 4x4 for snowplowing.

I thought the swap was an interesting project with a big upside. I needed a project and was willing to take the chance. I saw how well and meticulous Retro was building the gizmo and when he offered to send me one, I just had to do it. I thought that if it didn’t work well I’ll just put it back the way it was. I’ll keep all the parts, but not worried at all.

Today, I put the Rancher back together and drove it around the yard, it’s great to be able to switch it to 4x2. For the first time ever, I had the the back end sliding, it was great! I’ll do the build all over again if I had to.

 

[fishfiles]

It is a lot more fun having 2wd to play around , they should have built them so 4wd was the default when something went wrong , instead of vice versa

 

[fishfiles]

If anyone is looking to do this electric shift front diff mod , I have two complete 2002-2004 450FM/S diffs (which would cost $800 each new ) , with the electric clutch (cost $420 by it's self ) , 2 speed sensors ( $80 a piece ) , I'd say $300 each

 

[Jeepwm69]

I normally don't like electric gizmos versus mechanical gizmos, but I've never seen one of these front electric diffs not work. That switch on the handlebar is just too easy to flip for me to give it up.

 

[Trailfreak]

I normally don't like electric gizmos versus mechanical gizmos, but I've never seen one of these front electric diffs not work. That switch on the handlebar is just too easy to flip for me to give it up.

Jeep, it’s good to know that you haven’t seen one fail. Have you installed one on a Rancher without Retro’s gizmo? If you did, how were you able to hook it up, handlebar switch to electrical differential with some kind of power? Just curious.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Yeah, mine is currently just wired to 12V and works fine, but as Retro pointed out, the clutch will last much longer at lower voltage, thus his gizmo.

I have the gizmo sitting on my workbench, but I discovered the rod was bad on my crank in that bike so I have to go through the motor on it. In the meantime it's been sitting. I'll get the gizmo installed on the bike when I have the motor pulled.

 

[retro]

Hey @Trailfreak, great work! I'm really happy that you took this project on and especially that you showed others in vids how easy and rewarding the 400AT selectable diff swap is! Congrats! I'm as tickled as I can be that you like it!

Special thanks again to @Jeepwm69 for pioneering this swap for us on these forums!

Ya got the next project in mind yet, Trailfreak?

Keep a smile on.