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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Rancher 350 4x4 Manual shift. One day riding recently it started to steadily loose power and a couple hrs later would not rev up at all and I had to push it to get back in the barn.

It was idling fine just wouldn't rev up at all at throttle. I put some seafoam in it because it seemed like a fuel issue in the carburetor. Let it idle for about an hour with seafoam and still wouldn't rev up. Brought it home to check it out and got to the point where it would start every time but not even idle. Airbox/filter is clean so I thought it must be the carburetor. Took it to the Honda dealer to have the carb cleaned out which they thought would fix it. they did and still no change.

They want to look at the cams but I don't want to put another ~$800 (quoted price) in a 18-year-old atv especially since they aren't sure what the fix is yet.

Has anyone else had this issue?




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A few things come to mind right away that you can easily check yourself.

Firstly, remove the seat and take the fuel hose loose from the carb and turn the petcock on (and check the Reserve position too) to see if there is adequate fuel flow making its way through the screen and petcock assembly. Be careful, don't start a fire... If fuel volume through that fuel line is slow, pull the vent hose off from the fuel cap and blow air through it to make sure it is clear where it is shoved down into the hollow steering stem. Check the gas cap vent as well. If fuel still does not flow strongly when you turn the petcock on, you'll need to remove the tank and remove and clean the petcock and screen. Those corrode and rot fast if left sitting with fuel in the tank for a long period of time. Ethanol laced gas kills them the quickest and surest. Don't ever put ethanol fuel in your tank.

Second thing, pull the small vent hoses off from each side (and bottom) of the carb. Blow through each hose to make sure they are perfectly clear. The vent hoses all exit at the air intake snorkel opening where there is a slot they fit into. The longer vent hose exits on the left side behind the black plastic body/side cover where it is clipped to the cover.

You can find a copy of the service manual HERE to use for reference. Proper hose routings is in there too.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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Stealer is right... If the cam was shot it would rattle like crazy and never idle at all! I'd get your property out of there and never go back again! Whatever the issue is (carburetion or ignition) it can easily be fixed. And for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stealer is right... If the cam was shot it would rattle like crazy and never idle at all! I'd get your property out of there and never go back again! Whatever the issue is (carburetion or ignition) it can easily be fixed. And for cheap.


I picked up my rancher from the dealer last week. I noticed the fuel was off when I unloaded it at home. I turned it on and gas started pouring out of the carburetor at the plunger. They also gave it to me with the hose disconnected from the air box to the engine. I went and got my money back.

Taking it to another repair shop that might know what they are doing. Why would it leak from the plunger? Did they forget an o-ring?


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leaking from the plunger on the bottom/side tells me they or time ripped the seal there. unless you have loads of cash ?, why are you letting other folks do what YOU can do at home ?!. AND FOR CHEAP TOO..LOL.
 

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leaking plunger''

i modified my leaking plunger, on my 2000es450.. cant say its for everybody. we barely get down to zero F. hear. plus i never used it, just the choke. i cut off the plunger button rod, plugged the hole with JB weld. then found an o-ring that fit and sealed it. that has temporarily
stopped my leak for years, and some to come. i dont think you can seat that o-ring without taking the carburetor out.
cant say i got any respect, for work left undone, yet you still get charged for it.
you can get a free service manual on this site, buy a clymers manual, it has some pictures, and plenty of help, when you need it.
 
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