[rkersh409]

I have a 2000 Rancher 350 that I have cleaned the carb 3 times now. The last time I even boiled it in lemon juice for 30 minutes. First time was because it would not idle. Cleaned and carb kit fixed that issue. Now after a month it idles great when cold but when you give it throttle it surges. Like you are pushing the throttle for a second then let off for a second. Then when it warms up it will start but any little throttle and it will die. I’m at a point where I'm thinking about replacing the entire carb. Are any of the aftermarket carbs worth buying?

 

[SamUK]

ALL of the aftermarket carbs are China junk, it’s best to stay away as most of them don’t work as soon as you fit them. You’d be better off spending the time cleaning your carb again or spending the money and having it cleaned.
What brand carb kit did you use?

 

[rkersh409]

Moose, I found what I did wrong. When blowing the carb out I must have blown the needle jet set out. Have no idea where it went. Guess I will be making a trip to Honda tomorrow. Also, the little plastic piece that goes between bowl and around the jets, (jet holder) is it really needed?

Called all Honda dealers around, no one has them in stock. Looking at Moose carb kits on ebay, some pics show to have the needle seat but most dont. Does anyone know if the carb kit comes with the needle seat?

 

[retro]

You'll need that plastic baffle reinstalled around the main jet. Was yours broken? Moose kits are china garbage nowadays, so you'll either need OEM parts or a Shindy kit. If replacing the jets you'll need to buy OEM Honda because Shindy jets aren't exact replicas of OEM, but Shindy jets are much better than any of the cheap china others. If you can't source a new baffle you might consider buying a used carb from powersportsnation. They sell guaranteed good used parts and stand behind them.

 

[retro]

You'll need a copy of the service manual as well. Read the fuel section and follow all carb setup recommendations in there, including the choke & throttle cable adjustments. Remove the fuel tank and petcock and clean them at this time too. Have fun!

 

[Goober]

Click my parts links to get the right part number then search for it on fleabay, order from Rocky Mtn, Partzilla, East Toledo Honda, dealer or buy a used OEM parts carb on fleabay

 

[rkersh409]

I bought a Shindy carb kit to get the needle jet that I blew out. Sprayed carb cleaner all through the carb and put it all back together. My idle is perfect, and starts easy. I can idle around all day long with no problems. If I push throttle about 1/4 way in, it starts to spit, sputter and pop. Even if I push the throttle all the way in it does the same thing. Has a strong gas smell, which I would think is rich? But if I pull the choke it will take off and run perfect at all throttle positions. Could it be that I need to move the C-clip up a notch? If not any ideas? I have cleaned this carb 4 times now (including boiling in lemon juice), don’t know what I am missing.

 

[LedFTed]

that is a possibility, center is a good place to start with the c-clip.
is the pilot, screw adjusted proper. best i remember on the 450es, 2000,, seems like it was 2.5/8ths turn. dont turn pilot screw in tight to set it, just let it seat barely, then go by what the book says, to back it out.. also make sure the intake is tight, or you will get to much air. im am talking intake to carb, though you can also have problem's on the intake to motor side, also.
i did find a small place when i cleaned my carb where the needle sits, looked like the white stuff hard water puts out. that mineral deposit caused problems with the seat, i couldnt see it till i broke out the magnifying glass. course i got old eyes. ;~}

 

[retro]

I bought a Shindy carb kit to get the needle jet that I blew out. Sprayed carb cleaner all through the carb and put it all back together. My idle is perfect, and starts easy. I can idle around all day long with no problems. If I push throttle about 1/4 way in, it starts to spit, sputter and pop. Even if I push the throttle all the way in it does the same thing. Has a strong gas smell, which I would think is rich? But if I pull the choke it will take off and run perfect at all throttle positions. Could it be that I need to move the C-clip up a notch? If not any ideas? I have cleaned this carb 4 times now (including boiling in lemon juice), don’t know what I am missing.

Have you got the airbox and air filter on it? If so, check for a leaky manifold and if that checks out, clean the carb again. You'll need to do much more work to it than spraying it out with carb cleaner spray. Try soaking it in Berrymans and use brushes and compressed air in every passage on the totally disassembled carb casting. Read and follow the service manual during disassembly, reassembly and installation. There are no shortcuts, it is very time consuming and sometimes it is very difficult work to be successful.

 

[rkersh409]

Have you got the airbox and air filter on it? If so, check for a leaky manifold and if that checks out, clean the carb again. You'll need to do much more work to it than spraying it out with carb cleaner spray. Try soaking it in Berrymans and use brushes and compressed air in every passage on the totally disassembled carb casting. Read and follow the service manual during disassembly, reassembly and installation. There are no shortcuts, it is very time consuming and sometimes it is very difficult work to be successful.

I want to thank you guys for all your time and help.

Yes I have the airbox, filter and lid back on. Everything is put back to normal when testing. I have cleaned every passage I can find with cleaner, air and even wire. That's why I lost my needle jet when blowing. Like I said I have taken the carb completely apart and boiled in lemon juice. I have spent hours cleaning this carb. My original problem was the idle. I let it sit for a while after deer season so my low speed jet was clogged. Fixed my idle problem after the first cleaning. That's when I started having the "rich condition" and have had it ever since. So that's why I think its something other then a dirty carb, but I am probably wrong. I have the pilot screw set to two turns out from lightly seated. I don't remember where I put the c-clip on the needle and will check that tonight when I get home. I will also look for a manifold leak. Does it sound like I have a rich condition? I though it would be lean if it runs great with choke on.

 

[shadetree]

Have you got the airbox and air filter on it? If so, check for a leaky manifold and if that checks out, clean the carb again. You'll need to do much more work to it than spraying it out with carb cleaner spray. Try soaking it in Berrymans and use brushes and compressed air in every passage on the totally disassembled carb casting. Read and follow the service manual during disassembly, reassembly and installation. There are no shortcuts, it is very time consuming and sometimes it is very difficult work to be successful.

I want to thank you guys for all your time and help.

Yes I have the airbox, filter and lid back on. Everything is put back to normal when testing. I have cleaned every passage I can find with cleaner, air and even wire. That's why I lost my needle jet when blowing. Like I said I have taken the carb completely apart and boiled in lemon juice. I have spent hours cleaning this carb. My original problem was the idle. I let it sit for a while after deer season so my low speed jet was clogged. Fixed my idle problem after the first cleaning. That's when I started having the "rich condition" and have had it ever since. So that's why I think its something other then a dirty carb, but I am probably wrong. I have the pilot screw set to two turns out from lightly seated. I don't remember where I put the c-clip on the needle and will check that tonight when I get home. I will also look for a manifold leak. Does it sound like I have a rich condition? I though it would be lean if it runs great with choke on.

with choke on, your running rich. the choke forces more fuel into the jets/carb passages. think of it this way, remember back in the days when carbs had the big butter fly valve at the top end or back side near the air breather ?, and we closed the choke, which in turn closed this butter fly valve. when this takes place, your closing off air, when the air gets closed off, the engine has to draw more fuel from the fuel source, which in your case, is through the jets, float bowl. fuel injection is nothing like carbs with jets, fuel injection uses a fuel injector that is timed with fuel and air at the correct firing time of the engine as it cranks over, or runs.

 

[rkersh409]

Well the c-clip was already on the middle notch. Also it did not look like any leaks around the manifold. So I have the carb soaking in Chem-dip. Sure hope that does the trick.

 

[retro]

Make sure you removed the emulsifier (needle jet holder) tube and the short brass set above it from the casting? Numbers 23 & 3 on the parts fiche:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2000/trx350fe-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/carburetor

Before reassembly, inspect the diaphragm on the throttle slide by pulling on it gently around where it attaches to the top of the slide to look for holes in that diaphragm. Then hold it up to a light and stretch it carefully... if there are any holes in that diaphragm the motor will not rev. During assembly of that slide, use a finger in the carb bore to hold the slide up about 2/3 of the way (pushing against the return spring tension) while you put the top cover on and snug up those 4 screws. The FSM covers this... it is important that you do it right so the diaphragm folds up and seals properly at the top and does not get damaged when tightening those screws. Also make sure that the pilot screw has all of the o-rings and washer on it in the correct order. Check the choke plunger seals on the end and in the middle of the plunger as well. Make sure the short needle hasn't broken off of the end of the plunger.

 

[Goober]

Did you replace the baffle (plastic piece on the bottom) AKA main jet holder? You have to have it. It’s cheap

Otherwise, your starter valve oring may not sealing.

Try running a pipe cleaner through your choke passage. If it comes up dirty, you will know soaking is not helping your carb get cleaner.

Here’s a pic of my carb with a pipe cleaner going thru it

 

[rkersh409]

Let it sit 2 days in Chem-dip. Took it out and washed it off with water and carb cleaner. Pushed the pipe cleaner all the way though the choke port and came out clean. Made sure all passage ways were blown out. SE valve o-rings lood good. Put carb back together per manual. Still idles great and now does better at 1/4 to WOT now, but still not 100%. It will rev up pretty good but still spits and sputters. Choke still makes it rev perfect. Good enough to live with at this point.

I ordered the baffle plate Tuesday and should be in Saturday. I will install it Sunday and see if that makes it run 100%. Missing the baffle plate cause this type of problem?

 

[retro]

You can't leave parts out of a carb. As you've read, that baffle is required. And no, I'm sorry but your carb refurb is not good enough to live with. You can do better... try again to be more thorough. Garbage in = garbage out.

 

[rkersh409]

You can't leave parts out of a carb. As you've read, that baffle is required. And no, I'm sorry but your carb refurb is not good enough to live with. You can do better... try again to be more thorough. Garbage in = garbage out.

I understand I can't leave parts out. I have had the part on order since Tuesday and should get it Sat. What I’m asking will the baffle cause it to spit and sputter? From what I have read it’s to help when riding?

I took the carb off again and will leave it sitting in Chem-dip till Sunday evening. I will rotate it every afternoon to make sure the liquid gets into every passage.

 

[Goober]

Sounds like you’re making progress and good for getting that baffle.

Try to magine what’s going on inside the carb while it’s running. The jet circuits are sucking fuel out of the bowl and the float valve is letting it dribble in while you’re rolling the throttle and bouncing over the trail. The baffle helps the fuel flow less turbulently into the bowl, so the suction of fuel from the bowl creates an air free cone of depression. Without the baffle, the incoming fuel may entrain some air bubbles causing irregular throttle response.

I hope that fixes most of your problem, but I think also change that 18 year old starter valve (choke valve).

Your pilot jet and idle screw settings will be easier to dial in; that’s where I think you are. Good for you rebuilding the carb I am glad you went OEM.

 

[rkersh409]

Thanks, but my choke is only 5-6 years old. The cable part broke on me years ago. So had to replace the whole thing. Yes it was OEM.

So the missing baffle could be causing issues even when in neutral. I sure hope that is the problem.

 

[Goober]

I think pilot jet and idle screw settings more than anything, but baffle should help.