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66 Posts
2000 300fw project.
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Joined
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66 Posts
400ex rear wheel hub conversion mod and 2” spacers on the 300fw
Same splines but not a direct fit. Cut the outer difference off the 300fw hubs with a band saw, Slide 400ex hubs on shaft followed by the outer difference/aka splined spacer cut off the 300fw hub, then washer and axle nut. Whala! 400ex hubs on a 300fw! Over all 6” wider
Same splines but not a direct fit. Cut the outer difference off the 300fw hubs with a band saw, Slide 400ex hubs on shaft followed by the outer difference/aka splined spacer cut off the 300fw hub, then washer and axle nut. Whala! 400ex hubs on a 300fw! Over all 6” wider
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66 Posts
400ex Yoshimura slip-on mod on the 300fw
Cut 300fw muffler off. Welded tube size adapter on 300 head pipe. cut the 400ex slip-on tube mid way of the first bend and right as the second bend starts. The remaining for the end peace slid perfect in to the muffler and created the perfect curve and fitment. Now to weld it back together and slap a clamp on it!
Cut 300fw muffler off. Welded tube size adapter on 300 head pipe. cut the 400ex slip-on tube mid way of the first bend and right as the second bend starts. The remaining for the end peace slid perfect in to the muffler and created the perfect curve and fitment. Now to weld it back together and slap a clamp on it!
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66 Posts
Rearward air intake snorkel mod on the 300fw
NOTE: Instead of trying to seal the factory air box I will be replacing it with 2” in-2” out spa filter.
1) from carb to spa filter with silicone adapter boot and 2” silicone hose.
2) from spa filter to 2” 90* with 2” silicone hose.
3) cut 3” hole in fender, the 3”-2” sinch cog will go in the 3” hole and tighten to the fender, the 2” 90* will thread in the bottom of the sinch cog under the fender.
4) the 2” male-male end of the 2” spa hose conecter will thread in the top of the sinch cog on top side of the fender.
5) heat one end of a peace of 2” black house hold plumbing pvc and apply glue and press it on the male end of the male-female spa hose connecter.
6) cut to the pvc length to the hight you want the snorkel.
7) glue trap basket to the top of the pvc and put the air filter sock over the trap basket. NOTE: the spa hose end conecters will allow it to be detachable. Run the snorkel in deep water or take it off when riding in woods and bushes. Or if you need a snorkel at times but just don’t like the looks of snorkels, take it off and just put it on when needed.
NOTE: Instead of trying to seal the factory air box I will be replacing it with 2” in-2” out spa filter.
1) from carb to spa filter with silicone adapter boot and 2” silicone hose.
2) from spa filter to 2” 90* with 2” silicone hose.
3) cut 3” hole in fender, the 3”-2” sinch cog will go in the 3” hole and tighten to the fender, the 2” 90* will thread in the bottom of the sinch cog under the fender.
4) the 2” male-male end of the 2” spa hose conecter will thread in the top of the sinch cog on top side of the fender.
5) heat one end of a peace of 2” black house hold plumbing pvc and apply glue and press it on the male end of the male-female spa hose connecter.
6) cut to the pvc length to the hight you want the snorkel.
7) glue trap basket to the top of the pvc and put the air filter sock over the trap basket. NOTE: the spa hose end conecters will allow it to be detachable. Run the snorkel in deep water or take it off when riding in woods and bushes. Or if you need a snorkel at times but just don’t like the looks of snorkels, take it off and just put it on when needed.
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66 Posts
Forward vent hose snorkel mod on the 300fw
I found a water inlet tube in the dorman help line that fit my hard tube and hoses perfect. All I had to do is cut the water inlet tube and bend the tab around. What I like most about the water inlet tube is the end is grooved for a o-ring so the hard tube fits and sealed tight to the water inlet tube. I teed the front and rear diff hoses into one hose, teed carb vents and gas tank vent hoses into one hoses, and just run trans case as one hoses itself. Gonna tap the crankcase vent hose in to the air intake snorkel. Uses water supply hose ends to make it detachable like the air intake snorkel. I’m probably gonna swap the black vent hoses to clear so I can see when and if moisture/water gets in the lines.
I found a water inlet tube in the dorman help line that fit my hard tube and hoses perfect. All I had to do is cut the water inlet tube and bend the tab around. What I like most about the water inlet tube is the end is grooved for a o-ring so the hard tube fits and sealed tight to the water inlet tube. I teed the front and rear diff hoses into one hose, teed carb vents and gas tank vent hoses into one hoses, and just run trans case as one hoses itself. Gonna tap the crankcase vent hose in to the air intake snorkel. Uses water supply hose ends to make it detachable like the air intake snorkel. I’m probably gonna swap the black vent hoses to clear so I can see when and if moisture/water gets in the lines.
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66 Posts
400ex rear shock and pro link conversion mod on the 300fw.
NOTE: this conversion will not work with factory air box.
300fw shock is 14” eye to eye when off the wheeler, 13” when on the wheeler and 15” with the 2” high lifter kit. Note: adjust the 400ex coil spring to half way so if there is ever a need to adjust up you won’t max out the universal joint or adjust down you won’t lose a noticeable amount of ride hight. 1) 400ex pro link) take the wish bone link off the dog bone link and put it on the opposite side of the dog bone link. 2) bolt the top eyelet of the 400ex shock on the 300fw as normal. 3) bolt the short end eyelet of the dog bone link to the swing arm as normal. 4) bolt bottom shock eyelet tabs to the middle eyelet of the dog bone link. 5) put a jack under the long end of the dog bone link and jack it up till the original shock mount tabs are measuring 15” eye to eye, this will show you where to add/weld a cross bar with shock mount tabs to the frame. 6) weld new cross bar and shock mount tabs in pace and bolt the eyelet end of the wish bone link to new/added shock mount tabs. Walla! 400ex shock convention on a 300fw giving it 2” of lift! I’ll try to get the new cross bar and shock mount tabs welded in and posted so there’s no confusion on where it will be added in. Some get the picture but you know there’s them ones that don’t.
NOTE: this conversion will not work with factory air box.
300fw shock is 14” eye to eye when off the wheeler, 13” when on the wheeler and 15” with the 2” high lifter kit. Note: adjust the 400ex coil spring to half way so if there is ever a need to adjust up you won’t max out the universal joint or adjust down you won’t lose a noticeable amount of ride hight. 1) 400ex pro link) take the wish bone link off the dog bone link and put it on the opposite side of the dog bone link. 2) bolt the top eyelet of the 400ex shock on the 300fw as normal. 3) bolt the short end eyelet of the dog bone link to the swing arm as normal. 4) bolt bottom shock eyelet tabs to the middle eyelet of the dog bone link. 5) put a jack under the long end of the dog bone link and jack it up till the original shock mount tabs are measuring 15” eye to eye, this will show you where to add/weld a cross bar with shock mount tabs to the frame. 6) weld new cross bar and shock mount tabs in pace and bolt the eyelet end of the wish bone link to new/added shock mount tabs. Walla! 400ex shock convention on a 300fw giving it 2” of lift! I’ll try to get the new cross bar and shock mount tabs welded in and posted so there’s no confusion on where it will be added in. Some get the picture but you know there’s them ones that don’t.
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66 Posts
450r front shock conversion mod on the 300fw
After about 3-4 Mock ups I finally got all the measurements and geometry on point. It looks simple but it a little more to it?!
This is the run down. I put just the stock shocks on, measured the eye to eye length, the floor to frame hight and the angle of the shock. I added the 2” highlifter kit, measured the eye to eye length, floor to frame hight. I took stock shocks and 2” lift kit off and put the 400ex lowering brackets on the a-arms. I bolted the bottom eyelet of 450r shock in, set the floor to frame hight and original shock mount tabs to the same specs as the 2” lift kit set up, and set the shock angle to the same specs as the stock shock without lift kit. Measured the distance between both top eyelets of the 450r shocks, measured from the floor to the original top shock mount tabs, measured from the floor to the top 450r eyelets. Grabbed my R-tub cut it to length, found the center point between the original top shock mount tabs, marked the center for my R-tube and lined it up dead center. NOTE: There is two holes in the channel type bracket that the original top shock mounts to. From the bottom I marked them holes on my R-tube. I marked the new shock tab holes to the same measurements I got from the floor to top 450r eyelet, and from center point out to keep the same angle as the stock shock specs. Drilled my two small holes in the bottom of my R-tube that I marked, drilled my shock tab holes, cut the corners on the R-tube at a angle to clear the top of the shock. Bolted the R-tube on useing the two small holes to keep it centered, mocked it all back up. I welded on some drop tabs that bolt the R-tube to the original shock mount tabs. And used some eyelet bushing from some old shocks to prevent squeezing. Used AA shock eyelet spacers on each side of the top 450r shock eyelet to center it in the R-tube. Pulled it all back off and painted and put it all back together
After about 3-4 Mock ups I finally got all the measurements and geometry on point. It looks simple but it a little more to it?!
This is the run down. I put just the stock shocks on, measured the eye to eye length, the floor to frame hight and the angle of the shock. I added the 2” highlifter kit, measured the eye to eye length, floor to frame hight. I took stock shocks and 2” lift kit off and put the 400ex lowering brackets on the a-arms. I bolted the bottom eyelet of 450r shock in, set the floor to frame hight and original shock mount tabs to the same specs as the 2” lift kit set up, and set the shock angle to the same specs as the stock shock without lift kit. Measured the distance between both top eyelets of the 450r shocks, measured from the floor to the original top shock mount tabs, measured from the floor to the top 450r eyelets. Grabbed my R-tub cut it to length, found the center point between the original top shock mount tabs, marked the center for my R-tube and lined it up dead center. NOTE: There is two holes in the channel type bracket that the original top shock mounts to. From the bottom I marked them holes on my R-tube. I marked the new shock tab holes to the same measurements I got from the floor to top 450r eyelet, and from center point out to keep the same angle as the stock shock specs. Drilled my two small holes in the bottom of my R-tube that I marked, drilled my shock tab holes, cut the corners on the R-tube at a angle to clear the top of the shock. Bolted the R-tube on useing the two small holes to keep it centered, mocked it all back up. I welded on some drop tabs that bolt the R-tube to the original shock mount tabs. And used some eyelet bushing from some old shocks to prevent squeezing. Used AA shock eyelet spacers on each side of the top 450r shock eyelet to center it in the R-tube. Pulled it all back off and painted and put it all back together
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66 Posts
Led light mod on the 300fw
Front flush mounts, rear flush mount and light bar from tractor supply store. Head lights on low beam, light bar will be on hight beam. Still got light bar to put on and post picture. Tail light to brake light conversion using 400ex master cylinder brake lever. And will be putting red brake light skin on the tail/brake light
Front flush mounts, rear flush mount and light bar from tractor supply store. Head lights on low beam, light bar will be on hight beam. Still got light bar to put on and post picture. Tail light to brake light conversion using 400ex master cylinder brake lever. And will be putting red brake light skin on the tail/brake light
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66 Posts
Wheels and tires came today. Just in time for Christmas. 12x8 vision bead lock wheels, 26x10 sti chicane rx tires
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66 Posts
Wheels and tires on. Got to change the front 2” wheels spacers out for 1” due to the difference off set in the original wheels and the aftermarket. I think the wheel and tire selection is a perfect combination
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Trying out our different rim and tire combinations on the 300fw project
New 26/10/12 STI Chicane RX 8ply tires on New 12x8 Vision 551 rims
New 23/9.5/14 EFX MotoHammer 6ply tires on New 14x7 KMC SX128 rims
Both excited our expectations in performance, ride quality and looks. We love both combos. I personally like the closer to stock size 23 tire on the over size 14 rim combo. It really make the lift show out. The 26 on 12 combo really fills it out and provides about 1.5” more grown clearance and ride hight. Surprisingly not much difference in clearance and hight between the 23 on 14 combo and the 26 on 12 combo.
Being the stock tire size was 23 fronts and 24 rears and we set the ride hight with the stocks on it we got to make some adjustments to our shocks to equalize the front and rear being we are running matching size front and rear tire sizes.
New 26/10/12 STI Chicane RX 8ply tires on New 12x8 Vision 551 rims
New 23/9.5/14 EFX MotoHammer 6ply tires on New 14x7 KMC SX128 rims
Both excited our expectations in performance, ride quality and looks. We love both combos. I personally like the closer to stock size 23 tire on the over size 14 rim combo. It really make the lift show out. The 26 on 12 combo really fills it out and provides about 1.5” more grown clearance and ride hight. Surprisingly not much difference in clearance and hight between the 23 on 14 combo and the 26 on 12 combo.
Being the stock tire size was 23 fronts and 24 rears and we set the ride hight with the stocks on it we got to make some adjustments to our shocks to equalize the front and rear being we are running matching size front and rear tire sizes.
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