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Haven't had time to do much on this for a few days. ALMOST done with the wife's nursery, so took a few minutes to put on the adjustable OBS 420 front shocks this morning.

The 350D bracket Don Oglesby makes for the rear shock mount lifts the rear a little, and before I added these 420 shocks the bike had a forward rake to it.

These are adjustable so hopefully I can get the ride softened up for my kid, and they raised the front end up level with the rear, giving plenty of room to clear these 26's.
 

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This morning I got the floorboards bolted on a little better. They appear to be Recon floorboards from Savant, but with a little tweaking and using U bolts I got them bolted on where they're solid.

I also replaced the plunger on the carb with one off of an extra carb I had laying around. The one on the machine had a rubber diaphragm that was distorted so it was letting gas seep out.

It still has a leaky overflow on the carb. I'm going to let her ride it a bit sometime this weekend and see if it resolves itself. My 06 Foreman tends to drip if I let it sit for long periods, but if I ride it for a bit it will stop leaking. If it doesn't stop leaking from riding it a bit I'll pull the carb and clean the needle seat again.

The wheeler really looks good with the 420 shocks up front. Stance is perfect.
 

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Took it for a spin Sunday afternoon. She likes it! She wore flip flops so had a little trouble shifting (she just reached down and yanked up on the shifter with her hand, LOL) and she didn't like that hot header pipe right by her right leg, but she adjusted. She really likes the size of this one compared to my 500's.

Still have to get the rear brakes hooked up (@SamUK is sending me some adapters to use the 300 cable with the 350D rear end) and the front brakes don't grip all that well so I'm going to unhook the lines at the M/C and calipers and blast some air through to make sure the lines are clear and then rebleed them.

I also bought a new starter/headlight switch assembly off of ebay, and the lights are acting a little funky, so think I might put the original assembly back on. It's sun baked and looks like crap but that's better than one that doesn't work. LOL

It ran great, and the carb overflow apparently fixed itself because it didn't leak a drop of gas while we were riding. The primer I put on is dry, and I noticed the petcock was a little wet so I tightened it up too. I kinda wondered if the petcock being a little loose might have contributed to the leaky overflow. Either way it all seems to be ok now.
 

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Here's what I threw together this morning. The "push and turn" light sockets didn't hold the bulbs very tight, and the plastic housing on the tail light was too thick for the "turn and lock" tab on the socket to hold the socket and bulb in place, so I simply used superglue to both hold the bulb in the socket, and the socket into the tail light housing. Will require snapping everything loose IF I ever need to replace a bulb, but the sockets were only a buck or so, and it will be easy enough to pop them loose from the housing.

Turned our really well.

Now I have to wire them in. I'm thinking I might run the power wire for the LED's to the key'd power wire I have the winch contactor plugged into, and run a ground from handlebar switch back to the lights. That way I don't have a hot wire running all the way to the back of the machine.

Those are just the brake lights. The factory tail light will be back in the middle hole when I reinstall the trunk lid.
 

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Ran a ground to the bolt holding the upper steering bushing bracket in place, and then to the microswitch on the right brake lever. Ran a wire off the other side of the microswitch back to the ground wire on the brake lights, and ran the power wire for the brake lights to the key'd on hot wire in the battery compartment.

Works great.
 
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