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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone one help point me in the right direction for fixing my TRX300FW?

My TRX300 stopped as I was driving up a steep trail yesterday. I had it loaded down with a 15 gallon sprayer, but I’ve never had an issue in the past. I noticed the oil temp light came on temporarily, then turned off, then the engine died.

Now, I can’t kickstart the engine and get it to turnover. It feels like compression is fine in the engine. The green neutral light is on when I turn the key to start, but the oil temp light is not lit up. I believe it is supposed to be.

FYI - my battery is currently dead and I’ve ordered a new one, but that shouldn’t have anything to do with the ATV not kick starting.


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The temp light should come on when the key is turned on and stay on for a few seconds then go out , if it don't one reason could be the alarm box which controls the temp light , the alarm box is no longer available new , used is the only option for it ----sounds like you were running the bike with a dead battery by kicking it over , they say that will damage the electrical system , you may have other problems now ---- did you check for spark at the plug ?
 

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The temp light should come on when the key is turned on and stay on for a few seconds then go out , if it don't one reason could be the alarm box which controls the temp light , the alarm box is no longer available new , used is the only option for it ----sounds like you were running the bike with a dead battery by kicking it over , they say that will damage the electrical system , you may have other problems now ---- did you check for spark at the plug ?


Wonderful. Yeah, I checked it and no spark. Is the CDI the same as the alarm box? If so, I can just buy one on Amazon. Would the alarm box cause the no spark issue?


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Just tossing this in, Don't forgot about lifting the decompression lever (right top side of the head) each time you try and kick start it.
 

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The CDI is a different box than the alarm , the alarm box is right next to the CDI on your 97 , I think around 98 they combined the alarm and the CDI when you did a replacement with a supplied wiring harness ---as far as not sparking when the alarm box goes out , I an not sure if that can happen , I do know the alarm box can go out and it still have spark as that happened to me just recently , I had spark but no temp light -----I would stay away from any electrical parts off the net unless it is a used OEM part or new OEM , that chinese electrical components are cheap junk ,
 

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First, buy a good battery and check both fuses; with luck maybe you just lost a fuse—you need a battery anyway.

Don’t buy aftermarket parts the sellers frequently don’t know applications. There are at least three year groups of electrics for the TRX300.

Download or view the manual from my links below—there’s a troubleshooting section there for the alarm unit. research your part numbers with the other links there.

Running without a good battery can cause the stator to fail, which can have a cascading effect upon the voltage rec/rec and CDI.

report back to us on your progress So we can go a lil futher
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First, buy a good battery and check both fuses; with luck maybe you just lost a fuse—you need a battery anyway.



Don’t buy aftermarket parts the sellers frequently don’t know applications. There are at least three year groups of electrics for the TRX300.



Download or view the manual from my links below—there’s a troubleshooting section there for the alarm unit. research your part numbers with the other links there.



Running without a good battery can cause the stator to fail, which can have a cascading effect upon the voltage rec/rec and CDI.



report back to us on your progress So we can go a lil futher


Will do. Thanks!


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ordered a new battery, CDI box and ignition coil. Fuses in battery box were good. Gas flow from petcock was great. Alarm box looked normal. CDI box had a small chunk out of the rubber coating. Maybe moisture got in there over time? This thing hasn’t seen standing water since I’ve owned it.

I had the service manual so I gave it a look. Ignition coil connector reading was good, but the multimeter reading for the ignition coil itself never jumped past 0.0. Do ignition coils or CDI randomly go out while the engine is running? I am just confused why something electrical happened while I was riding.

All the parts should arrive by Wednesday. Anything I should troubleshoot in the meantime?




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Ordered a new battery, CDI box and ignition coil. Fuses in battery box were good. Gas flow from petcock was great. Alarm box looked normal. CDI box had a small chunk out of the rubber coating. Maybe moisture got in there over time? This thing hasn’t seen standing water since I’ve owned it.

I had the service manual so I gave it a look. Ignition coil connector reading was good, but the multimeter reading for the ignition coil itself never jumped past 0.0. Do ignition coils or CDI randomly go out while the engine is running? I am just confused why something electrical happened while I was riding.

All the parts should arrive by Wednesday. Anything I should troubleshoot in the meantime?

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Chapter 17 page 4 shows primary coil .1-.2 Ohms; secondary 8.1-10KOhms; and secondary without cap 3.6-4.5KOhms
Ooops this is for 88-94
See what i mean? Different year group.
So check your model manual and make sure your meter range is adjusted to read the expected values
Chapter 20 shows how to troubleshoot the alarm unit.
Test your stator and pulse generator values


If your battery doesn’t bring everything back up.
Now i have rebooted heated fan Control units in an oven–no more than 200F for at least three hours. connector/side up.
Leave in the oven during heat up and cool down–leave the CDI in there til completely cool.


While you’re waiting get some electrical contact cleaner, permatex dielectric grease and some plumbers flux brushes. Every connector you open, clean and brush and clean, then apply a thin layer of lube on the contacts an backshell. Connectors will seat and disco easier too
 

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What’s the easiest way to test the stator? I can’t find that in the service manual.


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You wouldn’t be able to easily test for voltage directly on the stator but you can test for resistance and shorts/opens. I think the manual says 0.2 - 0.6 Ohms resistance between each pole depending on temperature so test each yellow wire to the other–all three to one another

You can test for voltage indirectly at the regulator and/or battery–those tests are futher back in the manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update: I still have no spark and oil temp light remains off.

I have completed the following:
New battery
New spark plug
Fuses are good
New rectifier and connections are within specs
New CDI and connections are within specs
Alarm connections tested within specs
Oil light sensor connection by air filter box within specs
Ignition Pulse generator is within specs
I ordered a new ignition coil, but it didn’t arrive. Current ignition coil test fine on secondary/plug adapter, but terminals ohms are a little high.

I’ve ordered another ignition coil, but is there anything else that could be causing the no spark issue? I guess the alarm could be fried, but based on what I’ve read, that wouldn’t prevent it from sparking. It would only prevent the oil sensor from lighting up.




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If those are all OEM parts then it should start and run. If not all OEM parts...? Well, then it should not ever run. China ignition parts sold for a 300 are rarely ever functional. And often times fry other expensive OEM components because they're usually for an entirely different, non-Honda application. China parts from ebay and amazon are our problema número uno here unfortunately.
 

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Have you checked the wires end to end (continuity), no breaks or corrosion?

Where did you source the new parts from? Please don't say Amazon.....!
 
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What about the kill switch that is built into the head light switch , take a can of WD40 with a straw on the can and spray into the switch as you work it back and forth , it may have corrosion built up in there , also have seen the wire break inside the assembly , the wires are red and black , some by-pass the kill switch by attaching the red and black together
 
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