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brakes locked up so i took it apart got all the mud and junk out and changed the rear brake pads and brake lines because they were really worn. After i put it back together and tightened the brake lines up i have no brakes with the foot or hand brake....where the brake lines connect is free and springs back after release but doesnt engage the brake pads within the drum? any advise?
 

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brakes locked up so i took it apart got all the mud and junk out and changed the rear brake pads and brake lines because they were really worn. After i put it back together and tightened the brake lines up i have no brakes with the foot or hand brake....where the brake lines connect is free and springs back after release but doesnt engage the brake pads within the drum? any advise?
more than likely..your brake drum is shot..to fix this..( i do this alot .verses buying a new brake drum )..remove the brake lever arm from the outter brake shaft..with the cable nuts off..place the brake arm back a few notches on the brake shaft..tighten it back on..now..force it towards the front of bike..install the brake cable nuts back on the end of the cables..by doing this..your making the brake arm cam inside the brake drum angle more when you push the foot brake...added:..it may take a few times to get it adjusted right..because your drum is so worn, your best bet..is make sure your brake drum is on when you do this adjusting like i said.
 

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If that doesn't work, you can also pull the brake cam shaft out (the shaft that actuates the brakes) and run a small bead of weld on both edges of the brake cam shaft on the part of the shaft that sits between the brake shoes. Don't put the weld on the fat spots, but on the edges. It won't take much weld and you will need to grind it down smooth with a grinder. This will let the brake shoes open up a little more to engage the brake drum. That is, if you don't want to do it the right way and buy a new brake drum. LOL.
 

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If that doesn't work, you can also pull the brake cam shaft out (the shaft that actuates the brakes) and run a small bead of weld on both edges of the brake cam shaft on the part of the shaft that sits between the brake shoes. Don't put the weld on the fat spots, but on the edges. It won't take much weld and you will need to grind it down smooth with a grinder. This will let the brake shoes open up a little more to engage the brake drum. That is, if you don't want to do it the right way and buy a new brake drum. LOL.
another trick i learned on rear brakes on the cam part..take some tin snips..cut off a strip of tin..same width as the brake cam ( part that rides in between the flat part of the shoes )..cut it about 2 inches or so..wrap it around the cam part..this spreads the shoes out alittle..and is slick enough to slide on the brake shoes flat part..does pretty good too... and some of us can't afford new brake drums helmut !.lmfao
 

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and some of us can't afford new brake drums helmut !.lmfao
Shadetree, if I had your money, I would burn mine. LOL.
 

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and some of us can't afford new brake drums helmut !.lmfao
Shadetree, if I had your money, I would burn mine. LOL.
if you had my money..you would be soooo poor..you couldn't even pay attention !..lmfao.
 

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The drum seems to be in shape...max diameter 161mm, while mines still 158mm
Did you try doing like Shadetree suggested, removing the brake lever and turning it clockwise a spline or two and bolting it back on?
 

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The drum seems to be in shape...max diameter 161mm, while mines still 158mm
Did you try doing like Shadetree suggested, removing the brake lever and turning it clockwise a spline or two and bolting it back on?
counter-clockwise is the direction the brake arm should go..1 or 2 splines..bolt it up..force it forward..put cables in the arm..it should turn the brake cam about a 1/4 turn..this gives more throw on the shoes. and 158 isn't far from max diameter in my book..lol.
 

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The drum seems to be in shape...max diameter 161mm, while mines still 158mm
Did you try doing like Shadetree suggested, removing the brake lever and turning it clockwise a spline or two and bolting it back on?
counter-clockwise is the direction the brake arm should go..1 or 2 splines..bolt it up..force it forward..put cables in the arm..it should turn the brake cam about a 1/4 turn..this gives more throw on the shoes. and 158 isn't far from max diameter in my book..lol.
You should move it clockwise if you're looking at it from the back side where you will be to take it off. The brake lever needs to go more toward the rear, so it will turn the cam shaft further.
 

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It needs to go in the direction of the red arrow, which is clockwise. That way when the cable pulls the lever forward, the shaft will turn more, opening the brake shoes up against the drum more. It only needs to be moved a spline or two, not as far as the arrow in the picture. If you move it too far, the cable won't be long enough to reach.

 

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well..i can't beat the pic's...butttttttt..depends on which way your sitting at it..working on it !..lmfao.
 

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well..i can't beat the pic's...butttttttt..depends on which way your sitting at it..working on it !..lmfao.
Now you know why I like to post pics. It make things easier to understand. LOL.
 

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well..i can't beat the pic's...butttttttt..depends on which way your sitting at it..working on it !..lmfao.
Now you know why I like to post pics. It make things easier to understand. LOL.
pfftttttttttttt !!!..i don't need pic's..lmfao..now..if ya got some playboy pics ??.lmfao..j/k !..i like your pic's..saves me some typping !..lmfao
 

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do i need to take anything apart or can i do it as it sits..?
Just unbolt the brake lever and take it off and move it back a spline or two. You shouldn't need to remove anything else.
 
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