[Orvis25]

Hey guys,
2 quick issues i want a second opinion on.

1)
My neutral light is having some issues. Recently its been blinking on/off randomly, or staying off all together. I know form other posts, that if it was off permanently, i would not be able to use the electric start (or so others say) but i still can. I tried wiggling the connection in the head unit and also unplugging and re plugging the connectors on the engine next to the right side foot brake (what i understand to be the reverse, neutral, and oil temp lines).
I recorded it going nuts, check the video.

No avail, Any ideas?

2)
I replaced my front brakes with a aftermarket disk brake kit (from SUPERATV) and have never gotten it to work super well over the past year. I have done the anti-air bleeding maintenance about 5 times now (once every few months) and i still have a very mushy brake, even sometimes barely engaging at all until i pump it like 5-8 times.

I am not super knowledgeable with now fluid based brakes work, but as far as i can tell, i have no leaks (ever time i re-bleed it, i never have missing fluid) and there is no-longer any air in the system (i never get air coming out when i bleed it to try to improve this issue).

Do you guys think i need to just replace my whole handlebar brake unit? It is over 20 years old now, maybe the piston is just shot and cant hold the pressure properly?

___________________

As always, thanks guys!

 

[shadetree]

loose connector at switch ?, some where from bulb to switch ?, or at switch ?. faulty alarm unit ?. bad bulb ?. as for the disk brakes ?. I dont use super atv kits..i dont trust them !. could very well be a worn out master cylinder piston in the bore ?. or air trapped some where in the line ?. or your simply not bleeding the brakes right ?. p.s. also could have a diode going out ?.

 

[Orvis25]

loose connector at switch ?, some where from bulb to switch ?, or at switch ?. faulty alarm unit ?. bad bulb ?. as for the disk brakes ?. I dont use super atv kits..i dont trust them !. could very well be a worn out master cylinder piston in the bore ?. or air trapped some where in the line ?. or your simply not bleeding the brakes right ?. p.s. also could have a diode going out ?.

I decided to just replace the whole master cylinder unit with a aftermarket one (bought one for $18 shipped, most likely china no-name). I will report back whether that fixes it or not when it comes in and is installed.

Anyone else on the wired neutral light issue?

 

[Goober]

I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem

 

[Orvis25]

I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem

Thanks for the recommendation on the light, think i will check the bulb tomorrow, if thatch not it, probably a far more serious issue unfortunately.

Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.

 

[Goober]

I think air in top of the system —very common—tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom—use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light—if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem

Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.

No just rotate it hard left should do it. You might have air in the crook at the top

 

[Orvis25]

I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem

Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.

No just rotate it hard left should do it. You might have air in the crook at the top

AH, ok >.<

I was going to say, dam that an odd method.

I already did that, even going as far as parking my atv on an angled slope so the brake MS was even higher up. That said, i never removed that rubber bit, i will try that today.

I also bought a vacuum brake bleeder today for $20 shipped, older hand pump one (not the air compressor ones). When ,my new MS gets in, i am a swap to it if this is not fixed and just vacuum the whole system.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Let us know what you find out.

 

[Goober]

It’s possible your mc piston seal is worn given the age

 

[Orvis25]

Let us know what you find out.

It’s possible your mc piston seal is worn given the age

OK, so small update:

Problem 1)
FIXED!
I took the neutral bulb out and it was corroded as heck. I flushed the socket out with some WD-40, and scraped the contacts with a screwdriver the best i could, re-flushed again and put a new bulb in, boom, worked.
Checked the other 2 bulbs to be safe, they were clean.
IDK what happened with the neutral that that happened other than some water got in it

Problem 2)
As for the MS, I did that trick again with putting the MS above the hose (parked on a hill, right side in high) and pumped the brake for about 10 minutes straight (HAND CRAMP!!!!!), re-tried the brake (all assembled) while going 15mph or so, no improvement, still need to pump it 3+ times to even get it to engage.
I think the MS is just worn out, probably never replaced by the PO.
When i bought it, the front brakes were shot and half-locked, so I did this SuperATV kit instead of re-building, never tested them original. The PO did not take very well care of this thing (why I gave her the name "Scar", she shows her battle scars but keeps on trucking)

I will report back when my non-OEM one comes in, and i install it (and test).

 

[Orvis25]

Update:

Problem 2)

I replaced the MS and vacuumed the system out until clear fluid started coming out of the tube. I re-tested the brake and its just as bad as with the OEM MS and old brown fluid.

I checked the lines, and i dont see any leaks as far as i can tell in the system, and i am not loosing fluid over time (old system was not leaking anything).

I saw some people post about ziptieing the brake lever in the engaged position and leaving for a week and that helps + adding Teflon tape to the drain/flush valve/bolt to prevent air from entering the system as you flush it. May do that next week (gogin out of town)

Any other thoughts / recommendations?

 

[Goober]

You replaced your brake calipers when you installed your disk kit and you replaced the master cylinder and your system not leaking. It’s possible your brake bleed screws are letting air in—yes I would use plumbers thread tape on them. Your new disc brake kit calipers had new bleed screws, right?

Are you sure you did the other thing I recommended?

Your master cylinder has to have fluid in it when you do this:

Use a flat screwdriver to gently take out that flat rubber puck in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir–air gets trapped just past the piston.

You’ll see two tiny holes under where the puck went—these have to be clear to allow fluid to feed into the system and equalize pressure.

Jiggle the brake lever to let air escape past the master cylinder—you’ll see bubbles rising out of the master cylinder orifices.

.

 

[Orvis25]

You replaced your brake calipers when you installed your disk kit and you replaced the master cylinder and your system not leaking. It’s possible your brake bleed screws are letting air in—yes I would use plumbers thread tape on them. Your new disc brake kit calipers had new bleed screws, right?



Are you sure you did the other thing I recommended?



Your master cylinder has to have fluid in it when you do this:



Use a flat screwdriver to gently take out that flat rubber puck in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir–air gets trapped just past the piston.



You’ll see two tiny holes under where the puck went—these have to be clear to allow fluid to feed into the system and equalize pressure.



Jiggle the brake lever to let air escape past the master cylinder—you’ll see bubbles rising out of the master cylinder orifices.



.

I did that on the OEM one, but the china new MS does not have a rubber puck.

Yea, the new disk brake calibers came new pre installed bleeder valves.

I will tape them next week and re-vacume pump the system to see if to does anything.

Any other thoughts on why its lacks any braking pressure?



Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Orvis25]

So, I re-bled the system, vacuumed it, and its still squishy as all heck, not solid or working properly.

I am thinking of getting this rebuild kit for the original MS, rebuilding it, reinstalling it, and seeing if the problem persists.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDY-JAP...424174&hash=item546e67852b:g:-lcAAOSwIvBcG-Vs

Thoughts?

The only thing i can say, is that if i rebuild the OEM one, and this STILL persists, i think i will be contacting SuperATV about their kit, maybe its just bad?/defective?

 

[shadetree]

So, I re-bled the system, vacuumed it, and its still squishy as all heck, not solid or working properly.

I am thinking of getting this rebuild kit for the original MS, rebuilding it, reinstalling it, and seeing if the problem persists.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDY-JAP...424174&hash=item546e67852b:g:-lcAAOSwIvBcG-Vs

Thoughts?

The only thing i can say, is that if i rebuild the OEM one, and this STILL persists, i think i will be contacting SuperATV about their kit, maybe its just bad?/defective?

I use nothing but high lifter front brake kits, installed it on my '03 trx450fm, works great. I do not trust superatv kits at all.

 

[Orvis25]

So, I re-bled the system, vacuumed it, and its still squishy as all heck, not solid or working properly.

I am thinking of getting this rebuild kit for the original MS, rebuilding it, reinstalling it, and seeing if the problem persists.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDY-JAP...424174&hash=item546e67852b:g:-lcAAOSwIvBcG-Vs

Thoughts?

The only thing i can say, is that if i rebuild the OEM one, and this STILL persists, i think i will be contacting SuperATV about their kit, maybe its just bad?/defective?

I use nothing but high lifter front brake kits, installed it on my '03 trx450fm, works great. I do not trust superatv kits at all.

Any particular reason why you distrust SuperATV kits? Do they have a history of being bad quality or something? They are a "sponsor" of this site, i figured they were trustworthy.
Edit: + i got the kit for $200 instead of like $370 that highlifter wants, so that was another factor for me.

 

[fishfiles]

Orvis , I think you are OK with SuperATV ----- I have an extreme proving grounds other side of my fence , where the Super ATV kits has been put thru hell , I have 8 front and 3 rear SuperATV disc conversion kits on 300s and 450s in my yard right now , been running the first one for I'd say 10 years now , have not had any problems with any of the 11 kits I have bought and installed on my bikes , they cost a lot less and the product support is as good as it can get , all HighLifter ever helped me with is my credit card number , Super ATV helped me a couple of times now with custom disc conversions , here is one

Pic: 2000 TRX450FM/S Super ATV rear disc conversion w/ hydraulic conversion

 

[Goober]

I would rebuild the OEM master cylinder so long as you have it out. Do you have the wheels off when you’re bleeding the system? Totally hard way to do it with wheels on.

 

[Orvis25]

I would rebuild the OEM master cylinder so long as you have it out. Do you have the wheels off when you’re bleeding the system? Totally hard way to do it with wheels on.

I do not, but i have not had many issued bleeding them with my vacuum pump. I just still cant get them working correctly. I have vacuumed like 1/2 a L. of brake fluid through them, and they still only "activate" when i pump the brake a few times. No air-baubles coming out of OEM or the china MS, no air out of the caliper bleeder valves (with pump or when doing it old-school). Checked the lines top to bottom, i see no leaks.

Maybe i just got a defective caliper that went bad in under a year?

Edit/PS:
Bought that rebuild kit, i will try re-building the OEM MS and see what happens.

 

[LedFTed]

are your front brakes, disk or drum?